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My M1009 frame cracked What the hell?

Klink K5

1/2 ton status
Joined
Aug 3, 2002
Posts
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Location
Northwest Iowa
I justy bought a rust free military blazer missing the motor,transand tcase out of stoction california. After I got it home, In noticed the frame was cracked by the passenger side engine mount and the front drivers] side by the steering box. Has any one had the same problem /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif I am exprienceing????? I really want to save the frame because it is on a rust free body(only 47000 miles) and I am converting it to gas Motor. It looks like the army boys got it stuck deep in the mud and put a cable on both of of the clevisis and bent the frame inward on both sides. PLEASE HELP!!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
The crack by the steering box is common on K5's K10's K20's and I've heard of some on K30's. The other is not so common but I have the same problem on my 78 K10 (soon to be fixed).

Not uncommon and easily fixed (especially if you are swapping motors).
 
Got my frame kit today from ORD and I also got the stering box brace. How long does it take to weld in and make it fit nice? /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
Zakk and I did his in about 7 hours.....

We worked slow, and deliberately since neither one of us had ever done it before....came out really nice, and that includes all the R&R time for the steering box, hoses, etc.

Not the most FUN project, but do-able if you don't rush and read the directions a bunch of times!
 
Hey at least you know in advance....! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Zakk and I started at around 4PM...stopped for dinner....did some B.S.ing and were out in the garage until almost 1AM..... That's NOT the way to find out how long things take.

If you start "fresh" in the morning with some good coffee and your welder and other tools all set to go, maybe 4 hours is more realistic....
 
As Greg stated it's not a Wham-Bam-Thank-U-Maam type thing (if you want a quality repairs and "make it fit nice"). Make sure you take the time to prep the area well (i.e. get rid of paint/rust in the areas you are repairing. "V" groove the existing crack, weld it in, and grind down the excess. Place the repair plates into place, check for alignment, clean surfaces and weld away using stitch welds to keep the heat down (applying paint when done is probably a good idea when the area cools), and then just follow the instructions for bolting in the brace. As long as you know how (or know someone who does) use a grinder and welder, it is not a technically hard job, but it does take time to make sure it's done right. Hope this helps.
 
i have the same ord kit sittin under my desk at work waiting to go in....just gota wait till my steering box comes in from WTO my steering box broke away from the the frame and broke an ear off the box itself /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif did it in the worst possible spot...about 300 yards into the rubicon blocking the trail...and about 10 hours later i finly make it back out and get it loaded up on a trailer /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
Is there anny additional frame welding i should be doing that anyone else noticed that is a weak spot? Let me know thanks /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 

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