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My "Official" Stepside Restoration Thread and LS Swap 2021
- Thread starter Chevy305
- Start date
The Advance adaptor bell? I think the issue I had was "diesel" and the starter nose is physically bigger than the gas engine stuff. I had to grind and buff and F around the get the starter to be able to fully install. Other than that, it was A-OK in my book.
Ok. Well, I’m older now and that was a long time ago. Just remember you not being happy about the experience.
Got some forward progress!
It took a while to get the motor mounts lined back up after I put the engine back in after clearancing the bell housing. But it's back in it's final place. I've started throwing some parts at it but of course it's the fine details that take the longest.
Since the engine is about an inch forward the clutch linkage had to be adjusted. The LS factory bellhousing bolts that came with my engine had a smaller stud that came off the back probably to hold a harness if I had to guess but made a perfect place to mount my linkage bracket. I spaced it with some extra nuts to help the z bar be straighter but it's still not perfect however, the clutch pedal feels fine so I'll leave it until it poses a problem.
I mounted the ECM to the relay panel and stretched out the harness to find my rough mounting spot for it. Now to fab up some stand offs so I don't have to hold it here going down the road...
My exhaust is going to be more work than I anticipated since the headers and existing pipes don't line up:
It took a while to get the motor mounts lined back up after I put the engine back in after clearancing the bell housing. But it's back in it's final place. I've started throwing some parts at it but of course it's the fine details that take the longest.
Since the engine is about an inch forward the clutch linkage had to be adjusted. The LS factory bellhousing bolts that came with my engine had a smaller stud that came off the back probably to hold a harness if I had to guess but made a perfect place to mount my linkage bracket. I spaced it with some extra nuts to help the z bar be straighter but it's still not perfect however, the clutch pedal feels fine so I'll leave it until it poses a problem.
I mounted the ECM to the relay panel and stretched out the harness to find my rough mounting spot for it. Now to fab up some stand offs so I don't have to hold it here going down the road...
My exhaust is going to be more work than I anticipated since the headers and existing pipes don't line up:
Also got the cooling system wrapped up with the radiator in, hoses, heater hoses and steam vent.
The upper radiator hose was a little too long and 1 1.25" while the radiator is 1.5" so I spliced it in the middle and used a hose adapter to 1.5" 90° hose I had laying around. Plus it gave me the option to plumb the steam vent to it. My radiator has a port for it just under the cap but I thought this was cleaner.
The lower hose doesn't fit the best and had to be trimmed down a little. It also rubs on the inner fender and frame. I bent the edge of the fender down some so it's not putting too much pressure on the hose. I figure with the chafing gear on it, it'll be fine.
I moved the fuel pressure regulator to the fire wall to make it look cleaner. Just waiting on a 2 fittings from Jegs and I can make a line to the fuel rail and cut down the supply and return lines.
The upper radiator hose was a little too long and 1 1.25" while the radiator is 1.5" so I spliced it in the middle and used a hose adapter to 1.5" 90° hose I had laying around. Plus it gave me the option to plumb the steam vent to it. My radiator has a port for it just under the cap but I thought this was cleaner.
The lower hose doesn't fit the best and had to be trimmed down a little. It also rubs on the inner fender and frame. I bent the edge of the fender down some so it's not putting too much pressure on the hose. I figure with the chafing gear on it, it'll be fine.
I moved the fuel pressure regulator to the fire wall to make it look cleaner. Just waiting on a 2 fittings from Jegs and I can make a line to the fuel rail and cut down the supply and return lines.
Check fuel lines off the list 
The Fragola 8000 series push lock hose is nice but man it is hard to push the fittings on. Especially the supply and return lines that are already in the truck that I trimmed down. Apparently Summit sells a tool that's like a vice that holds the hose and pushes the fittings on for something like $500. I improvised with vice grips on the hose and a 2 jaw puller to pull the hose into the fitting. It actually worked better than doing it on the bench with a vice the hard way by just pushing and forcing it. Keep in mind I would have chosen a different style hose if I was starting from scratch but this is what came with the FAST EFI system I had on the small block so I might as well be consistent.
I also got the ECM and relay panel mounted. I bought another style of ECM mount for cheap off of Amazon and sandwiched it between the ECM and Dirty Dingo ECM mount that is my relay panel mount.
I used some rubber isolators to go between the ECM mounts and inner fender.
I got the battery cable in too. The cables I'm using are AC Delco replacements for the donor truck for a cleaner more factory appearance. It has the integrated short 4awg cable for the factory fuse/relay panel which worked perfectly for my distribution block to the relay panel. I had to crimp a different end on but no big deal.
Now starts the tedious task of making the connections I need to make and integrating it into the trucks harness.
The Fragola 8000 series push lock hose is nice but man it is hard to push the fittings on. Especially the supply and return lines that are already in the truck that I trimmed down. Apparently Summit sells a tool that's like a vice that holds the hose and pushes the fittings on for something like $500. I improvised with vice grips on the hose and a 2 jaw puller to pull the hose into the fitting. It actually worked better than doing it on the bench with a vice the hard way by just pushing and forcing it. Keep in mind I would have chosen a different style hose if I was starting from scratch but this is what came with the FAST EFI system I had on the small block so I might as well be consistent.
I also got the ECM and relay panel mounted. I bought another style of ECM mount for cheap off of Amazon and sandwiched it between the ECM and Dirty Dingo ECM mount that is my relay panel mount.
I used some rubber isolators to go between the ECM mounts and inner fender.
I got the battery cable in too. The cables I'm using are AC Delco replacements for the donor truck for a cleaner more factory appearance. It has the integrated short 4awg cable for the factory fuse/relay panel which worked perfectly for my distribution block to the relay panel. I had to crimp a different end on but no big deal.
Now starts the tedious task of making the connections I need to make and integrating it into the trucks harness.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
What is this? A one way check vavle?
Fuel filter. 10 micron I believe. It has a sintered brass element.
So supply on the left with the filter, it goes across the regulator out the right side to the engine, and the bottom is the return.
I could also set it up for vacuum reference as the old FAST system used that but stock LS stuff just needs steady pressure so I capped the vacuum port.
My Aeromotive regulator says to leave the vacuum port open to atmosphere if not using it. I could see temperature swings effecting it a little bit.
I know that I am not an expert, but my '01 and '02 GM trucks have a vacuum line to the regulator. Can the aftermarket system be aided with the vacuum signal?
Good point. I'll remove the cap. I was mostly worried about dirt or moisture getting in.
I'm not sure about that style regulator but my engine is an '05 with a TBSS intake which had the single feed line and non return style fuel rails.
Yes, they quit using the return line in '04 on trucks a day SUVs. But there is still a vacuum referenced regulator on the driver side fuel rail, same as the earlier engines. I don't know how the TBSS fuel rails are set up for sure.
I have no actual experience or proof that it will make much difference by not using the vacuum signal, just telling you what I have found.
I have no actual experience or proof that it will make much difference by not using the vacuum signal, just telling you what I have found.
I think mfr "stock" means having the brakects for the bell housing braces.
I know my stock gen sbc and factory cross member, were very close, with the brackets left out. Add some saggy mounts and the dampener could hit.
Also factory cross member doesn't go under pan.
Anyone running a manual with cruise control?
I'm Currently swapping an '06 5.3 into an '84 K10. I'm running a manual trans NV4500 and I'm looking to set up cruise control. I have a factory harness that I reworked based on the LT1 swap website but I have 2 wires that I'm not sure that I need. Both from the blue connector pin #35 Clutch Position sensor, and pin #33 cruise release signal. Should I be running a clutch position sensor in some way so that when I clutch in the cruise turns off? Also the cruise release signal, is that necessary because I thought that function was done at the wires from the TAC module which go to the cruise control switches and brake switch.
Copy pasted my question from FB that got no traffic. Wondering if anyone here might know.
I'm Currently swapping an '06 5.3 into an '84 K10. I'm running a manual trans NV4500 and I'm looking to set up cruise control. I have a factory harness that I reworked based on the LT1 swap website but I have 2 wires that I'm not sure that I need. Both from the blue connector pin #35 Clutch Position sensor, and pin #33 cruise release signal. Should I be running a clutch position sensor in some way so that when I clutch in the cruise turns off? Also the cruise release signal, is that necessary because I thought that function was done at the wires from the TAC module which go to the cruise control switches and brake switch.
Copy pasted my question from FB that got no traffic. Wondering if anyone here might know.
While I can't answer as to what you need to do, I do know that there should be an input to kill the cruise when you press the clutch. My old '95 had the clutch safety switch bypassed. I had to remember and kill the cruise before stepping on the clutch pedal. Only did that test once... 
More progress
Made a bracket and installed a catch can.
I also pieced together an air intake with pieces from the donor and my old Airaid intake tube from my '12 Silverado. Unfortunately it's a little short for being up against the fender. I'd like to come up with something that uses the factory hole in the core support for the cold air intake vs the fender which is just pulling air from the engine bay anyway. That'll be a later project as this will work for now to get me running.
I've got the under hood wiring all finished and I'm working on the under dash side now.
Made a bracket and installed a catch can.
I also pieced together an air intake with pieces from the donor and my old Airaid intake tube from my '12 Silverado. Unfortunately it's a little short for being up against the fender. I'd like to come up with something that uses the factory hole in the core support for the cold air intake vs the fender which is just pulling air from the engine bay anyway. That'll be a later project as this will work for now to get me running.
I've got the under hood wiring all finished and I'm working on the under dash side now.
I wouldn't worry too much about getting it through the core support. I used the factory air intake from my 05 donor and had the same concerns. Watching my IAT's, once you start moving they drop right down to ambient temperature. When sitting in traffic they creep up a little bit but nothing major. Basically anything above idle and it's back to ambient again.
I have the same factory intake tube as well. The flex joint will allow me to mount the box against the fender but let's face it, it's kinda ugly and not a smooth tube. I may just buy a longer rubber connector between the MAF and the tube to make it better though. But that's good to hear about the IAC temps being close to ambient.
Big shout-out to my nextdoor neighbor he's a welder by trade and tig welded the header collectors. I made a sad attempt to weld with stainless flux core wire and it came out embarrassingly bad. He helped fix that, welded up the V bands to the collectors, cats, and reducers, and added another O2 bung for my wideband. With the header welding done I can install them and then hopefully turn the key and run the engine for a few minutes. It hasn't run since the test fire engine stand video I made last year. I'm super excited!
Big Day yesterday.
She starts and runs! First start in the books!
It was a great moment but I found some other issues to address.
First and foremost is the TAC Module lost communication so it goes into limp mode and I couldn't get the idle below 2k rpm. I'm using an electric pedal from GMT400 diesel with an adapter harness so it just bolts in and the height and feel is just like stock. I never bench tested the setup and when I put it in the truck the pedal didn't work. It took a bunch of troubleshooting but I believe I have a ground issue with the TAC module. Grounding the case with some alligator clips did the trick and it worked. Now with the same setup I get nothing. I'll have to double check the ground wire in the harness as i believe that's my culprit.
I also have a big coolant bubble in the engine that i need to burp.
And lastly, the O2 sensors I ordered for it were for an '05 Silverado, my engine is actually an '06. Of course GM had to change connectors in those years so I have to buy a new set of O2 sensors. My fault for not double checking while I was still in the Rock Auto return window 2 years ago...
Initially it looked like I could swap the female plugs with the male plugs from some old O2 sensors I have lying around from my '12 Silverado but go figure those white square connectors don't fit the black square connectors on my harness despite looking like they do.
She starts and runs! First start in the books!
It was a great moment but I found some other issues to address.
First and foremost is the TAC Module lost communication so it goes into limp mode and I couldn't get the idle below 2k rpm. I'm using an electric pedal from GMT400 diesel with an adapter harness so it just bolts in and the height and feel is just like stock. I never bench tested the setup and when I put it in the truck the pedal didn't work. It took a bunch of troubleshooting but I believe I have a ground issue with the TAC module. Grounding the case with some alligator clips did the trick and it worked. Now with the same setup I get nothing. I'll have to double check the ground wire in the harness as i believe that's my culprit.
I also have a big coolant bubble in the engine that i need to burp.
And lastly, the O2 sensors I ordered for it were for an '05 Silverado, my engine is actually an '06. Of course GM had to change connectors in those years so I have to buy a new set of O2 sensors. My fault for not double checking while I was still in the Rock Auto return window 2 years ago...
Initially it looked like I could swap the female plugs with the male plugs from some old O2 sensors I have lying around from my '12 Silverado but go figure those white square connectors don't fit the black square connectors on my harness despite looking like they do.
