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My "Official" Stepside Restoration Thread and LS Swap 2021
- Thread starter Chevy305
- Start date
I got the TAC module issue solved and now I have a working pedal!
It turned out to be the ground like I had thought. The ground wire wasn't grounded. I'm thinking the wire might be broken in the harness. So rather than rip apart my neatly bundled and taped looming, I used an extra ECM pin that I removed and installed a new ground.
I also added coolant to the upper radiator hose and solved my coolant bubble issue. I ran out a little shy so I'll have to get more.
Anyway check out the video of it running. Keep in mind it's just open headers with no O2s and not tuned for the cam yet.
It turned out to be the ground like I had thought. The ground wire wasn't grounded. I'm thinking the wire might be broken in the harness. So rather than rip apart my neatly bundled and taped looming, I used an extra ECM pin that I removed and installed a new ground.
I also added coolant to the upper radiator hose and solved my coolant bubble issue. I ran out a little shy so I'll have to get more.
Anyway check out the video of it running. Keep in mind it's just open headers with no O2s and not tuned for the cam yet.
It runs on the stock tune? Makes the cam sound more wicked than it is, though I am surprised it didn't stall, I guess there is no load yet.
I bet it feels good to finally have it running in the truck, I know the projects taking longer these days, I haven't even started mine yet I'm so busy with customer projects and more recently kids sports.
I bet it feels good to finally have it running in the truck, I know the projects taking longer these days, I haven't even started mine yet I'm so busy with customer projects and more recently kids sports.
Interior and under hood are all wrapped up. I got my wideband wired up. So I took it for the First drive around the block this afternoon! Big step to have it move under it's own power. The tune is pretty rough, the exhaust is still open headers, and I still haven't put the hood back on yet. But it was sooo good to drive it and know that it's going to work.
First time it's been out of the garage in 6 months:
Now all that's left is the exhaust, hood, and lots of tuning.
First time it's been out of the garage in 6 months:
Now all that's left is the exhaust, hood, and lots of tuning.
Nice milestone Glenn!
Merry Christmas everyone!
My wife got me an awesome gift:
What a carbon copy of my truck! I love this thing so much, the detail is great, the hood and tailgate open, and literally the only difference between this model and mine is the 4 headlight front end vs mine with the 2 headlight. I love it!
Progress report:
I got the hood on and I've made some forward progress on the exhaust. I'm cutting up and welding a series of bends to make it around the transfer case. But this fall has been busy with a bunch of brake lines that I had to replace on the GAC truck and the whole frame rot repair, stripping and painting, and fluid film on my Silverado have all been time sucking distractions. I'll have more time in January so I hope to have the exhaust finished and then I can run the truck a bunch more and get to work on the tuning.
My wife got me an awesome gift:
What a carbon copy of my truck! I love this thing so much, the detail is great, the hood and tailgate open, and literally the only difference between this model and mine is the 4 headlight front end vs mine with the 2 headlight. I love it!
Progress report:
I got the hood on and I've made some forward progress on the exhaust. I'm cutting up and welding a series of bends to make it around the transfer case. But this fall has been busy with a bunch of brake lines that I had to replace on the GAC truck and the whole frame rot repair, stripping and painting, and fluid film on my Silverado have all been time sucking distractions. I'll have more time in January so I hope to have the exhaust finished and then I can run the truck a bunch more and get to work on the tuning.
Brought it to work for show and tell
Yeah, but, you got it stuck in the rocks and now you're broke down.
Haha believe it or not it just clears the keys.
Man I'm exhausted...
Finally finished the exhaust system! So it's Speed Engineering Headers, v bands, high flow cats, reduced to 2.5" and I had to get creative to match up to my existing muffler and tailpipes. Getting around the t case and crossed over was interesting. I set it up so I could remove the pipes between the muffler and headers. The band clamps seem to leak slightly at the seam but perhaps with some adjustments and tightening that'll improve.
The exhaust sounds awesome and the engine seems to idle and run smoother than with open collector extensions. So a quick rip up and down the driveway and WOW this engine feels much stronger and more responsive than the old SBC. And this is the stock tune too! But now that I have the exhaust on it I can actually get some run time on it and get to dialing in the tune.
Since I had the welder out underneath the truck I figured I'd get around to installing this driveshaft safety loop that I bought from Summit probably about 10 years ago lol. Unfortunately my .023 welding wire seems to just be bouncing off of the cross member and barely touching it. I already cut the tac welds and I'm regrouping with a new plan to angle cut the pipe so it sits flush on the cross member. Anyone think I should do anything different?
Finally finished the exhaust system! So it's Speed Engineering Headers, v bands, high flow cats, reduced to 2.5" and I had to get creative to match up to my existing muffler and tailpipes. Getting around the t case and crossed over was interesting. I set it up so I could remove the pipes between the muffler and headers. The band clamps seem to leak slightly at the seam but perhaps with some adjustments and tightening that'll improve.
The exhaust sounds awesome and the engine seems to idle and run smoother than with open collector extensions. So a quick rip up and down the driveway and WOW this engine feels much stronger and more responsive than the old SBC. And this is the stock tune too! But now that I have the exhaust on it I can actually get some run time on it and get to dialing in the tune.
Since I had the welder out underneath the truck I figured I'd get around to installing this driveshaft safety loop that I bought from Summit probably about 10 years ago lol. Unfortunately my .023 welding wire seems to just be bouncing off of the cross member and barely touching it. I already cut the tac welds and I'm regrouping with a new plan to angle cut the pipe so it sits flush on the cross member. Anyone think I should do anything different?
Angle it back should work fine, will be stronger welded all the way around both tube ends and look cleaner too.
You could notch into the crossmember to fit the hoop partly inside and gain a lot of weld surface. You could also make some simple brackets out of angle iron that sit on both sides of the hoop, even taper one edge to match the angle of the hoop so it lines up at the outermost surface. Using brackets like this would let you make it a bolt-on.
Great Idea! The cross member is at about a 15° angle so using angle iron Sounds a lot easier than cutting the pipe flat across at that angle. I'm not entirely sure why it would need to be removable but who knows maybe that could be handy at some point down the road.
If the angle is too much and there is space you could just V notch the tube ends to overlap the top rear corner of the crossmember, would be simple and quick.
I tried to put it flat against the cross member but the angle put it too far forward right over the u joint and if it broke there I couldn't guarantee the safety loop would hold it. Running it straight up and down off the back put it in the right spot to retain the driveshaft, now the discussion is how to attach it. Also keep in mind whatever is left hanging off the bottom of the cross member will be cut off.
If this was the plow truck I'd say a mouse circ de sole routine but in this application, just a parking brake.What are the cables for?….
I've been wanting to upgrade to the later 80s style cables but that's probably $200+ in cables/parts and this works just fine for many years.
No video?
Can you think of any reason you would need to remove the crossmember and not need to remove the driveshaft?
If so, make it removeable, but if its not easier to remove than the driveshaft it won't save you any time.
If not, weld it.
If it was mine I would either V notch it to angle it back off the top/rear, or if that wasn't far back enough, add another bend to each tube forward at the bottom to weld it with just one piece to the back of the crossmember.
