CK5
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My paint question...

zinc chromate is strictly for raw metal.... the black EDP coating is fine if you want to leave it. just run a sander over it thoroughly, spot in some green on any spots you sand thru, than fill prime over the whole thing...

but yes, you could strip it all off and green it, fill, yada...
 
zinc chromate is strictly for raw metal.... the black EDP coating is fine if you want to leave it. just run a sander over it thoroughly, spot in some green on any spots you sand thru, than fill prime over the whole thing...

but yes, you could strip it all off and green it, fill, yada...


fill prime - is that the 2k primer? Can the fill prime be found in spray cans also? Does the fill prime need hardener?
 
yes, 2k is a fill primer...

keep in mind anything in a spraycan is enamel or lacquer and uncatalyzed...

as Brody found out early on, fill primers from rattlecans are very poor for any serious bodywork.. they dry VERY soft... they generally don't sand well... tho the "sandable primer" ones are a bit better... primer on a bracket before rattlecanning with paint, sure, it's not horrible for that... on a fender your gonna wanna sand properly for a catalyzed paint, i wont...

in many ways, a quality primer is more important than the paint you put over it...
 
What is the difference between a fill primer and an etching primer? Is the etching primer the zinc chromate?

Is the 2k urethane primer Chief is using an etching primer also?

Also what are your thoughts about acrylic enamels? These can be painted with out a hardner and thus do not have the dangerous isocyanates.
 
an etching primer is designed for adhesion, usually to raw metal, as is the case with the green zinc chromate... it is the ultimate self etching primer..

a fill primer is designed to seal and be faired (sanded).. it has more body and solids.. it is designed to go over body filler, sanded paint, etc and fill imperfections..

2k is not an etching primer, it is a fill primer.. acrylic enamel is garbage... well, for any serious paint job any way... trail truck ya don't care about, sure, roll on the rusto...

if your not spraying cars for a living, and spraying a vehicle every 10 yrs, the health hazards are inconsequential.. that's what they make respirators for dude... I've painted over 2000 cars and it hasn't killed me....
 
Are there any 2k fill primers you would recommend that do not contain isocyanates?

If not then what protective gear do I need? Would a charcoal filter and goggles be ok or do I need a fresh air supply?

Do I need a HLVP gun to shoot the 2k fill primer or can I use the old style pot type gun?

Can the 2k fill primer go over acrylic enamel and acrylic lacquer paints?

You only recommended 2k fill primer in urethane right?

Why is enamel garbage?
 
Which brings me to my next point, Im figuring on just getting one of cheap HF guns. How to i prep the gun before running primer through is, and then how do i clean it when im done?
 
what protective gear do I need? Would a charcoal filter and goggles be ok or do I need a fresh air supply? yes, disposable charcoal filters from 3M and such will be fine.. obviously an air supplied system is nice, and i used one in the collision shop, but it is not nescessary for the occasional use... as with anything, you can wear whatever protective gear you want, from goggles to gloves to a giant plastic bubble...

Do I need a HLVP gun to shoot the 2k fill primer or can I use the old style pot type gun? anything can be sprayed thru non-HVLP guns.. how do you think we did it for decades before HVLP? but you will have more overspray in the air, thus wasting a bit of product...

Can the 2k fill primer go over acrylic enamel and acrylic lacquer paints? you can, but it is not ideal... putting catalyzed products over uncatalyzed is not ideal...

You only recommended 2k fill primer in urethane right? 2k is a product line specific to Dupont.. fill primers are made by every major manufacturer...

Why is enamel garbage? because it has no hardener.. it's resin base is inferior to a catalyzed product.. it dries very soft and is far inferior in durability, etc...



.......
 
Which brings me to my next point, Im figuring on just getting one of cheap HF guns. How to i prep the gun before running primer through is, and then how do i clean it when im done?


it's always best to just run some lacquer thinner thru any gun your going to spray thru to verify it is functioning ok and rinse any dust, etc out...

when done, clean the cup with thinner, put thinner in it and spray it under higher air pressure till clear thinner comes out.. when done, spin the air cap off, and wrench out the fluid nozzle to clean any paint film from the inside... a throwaway brush and thinner work good for that...

be aware that many of the super cheap guns use plastic for knobs, etc that DO NOT PLAY WELL WITH THINNER.. meaning, they will melt.. so care should be taken... also cheap guns are not rebuildable...
 
ryoken - thanks for the help. This is all great info.

Are Epoxy 2k primers that same thing as urethane 2k primers? When should an epoxy primer be used?
 
2k is not a type of primer it is a brand line.... epoxy primers are similar to urethane primers in a some ways and different in others....

they have a bit better etching charechteristics over just a urethane fill primer, seal like a urethane, but they do not sand well at all like a urethane fill primer... thus why i don't recommend them any more... epoxy is horrible for anything that requires bodywork... just want to cover a raw frame than blast some paint on it, not a horrible choice... but even than, not the best...

it was a good solution for over bare metal for a while, but it is far inferior to a zinc chromate/urethane fill primer combo imo.... some body guys will argue that.. but they are stuck in an epoxy mode, it's old tech imo...
 

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