What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

My SAS thread. 97 GMC

original balzer

original balzer

1/2 ton status
Joined
Nov 17, 2004
Posts
4,660
Reaction score
2
Location
roosevelt utah
I been wanting to do this for a while now and Im starting to gather the parts for it. This will still likely take some time to do, I may not even start on the real work until spring.
Ill start off with what my truck is
97 GMC K1500 extended cab 350 vortec 5 speed manual it has a fugly pieces and parts lift on the front that gave me 4.5" of lift. and zero lift on the rear. 315x75x16 Big-O XT's on MT classic 16x10 wheels. The lift hasnt been bad other than I have a tendancy to get rough and break stuff.
most recent pic Its been dirty since the elk hunt due to foul weather so I dont take pics.
IMG_0798.jpg


I will be doing some trade work for a ford D44 front and a D60 rear both 8 lug and matching gears *4.11/4.10*.
Sunday night this should be here. Its made in north salt lake by a guy named Wayne, its the spring hangers, all brackets, removable cross member, track bar, and crossover steering kit.
SASkit.jpg


PLAN
custom 6" springs up front done by a spring shop in Phoenix. This should give me 8" total lift according to the manufacturer of the kit
I will probably do a rear shackle flip, hopefully Kert makes one for my year truck, or can build me something. Possibly custom rear springs to make up the rest.
I will either build or buy a dual shock hoop for the front.
I will stay with 35" tires but might upgrade to 18" wheels.
Fairly simple nothing too fancy.

I have a 93 ford f350 single wheel work truck. It has a D60 front. I am sick of fixing it and dont trust it (AODE trans is slipping bad). I also have a pro welder (pipeliner) living here and he wants to SAS his 04 GMC. Since I wont be going any bigger than 35's and he hauls a welder and all his equipment I will trade him the D60 and he is buying my parts. I think I will be fine with the D44. Besides it funds my build.
The 93 ford will get the cab, front clip, engne, trans and transfer case removed. These will all be sold or traded to also fund this build. The remaining frame and utility bed will be made into a trailer.
 
HI-STEER!

So Im still having a hard time finding good info on D44 front axles. Especially ford versions, lots of info for jeep and chevy axles though. Also MOST of the ford axle info I have found is half ton or f-150 axles.

SO Ill tell you what I have found and if you know something I missed or got wrong please let me know.

My f250 axle "should" have flat top knuckles that can be machined for hi-steer arms.
This page seams to say ford f250 axles where flat top from 76-79. http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html

POR has a steering link that deals with D44 but again focuses on jeep and f150 versions or combination's/hybrid.
Come on! you would think BillaVista would have more info. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Steering/Steering_Research/steeringresearch.htm

This still leaves me with some questions.
looking through pages and pages of hi-steer arms it seams 99% of them have a single hole for the tie rod and no hole for a drag link for true crossover hi-steer.

Inverted T steering. This system means the drag link connects to the pass side of the tie rod. The only real down fall I see with this setup is a tendency to roll the tie rod before the wheels turn. Basically this is "built in" sterring slop or play. While this may not be very noticable when everything is new Im still not sure I want to go this route.

The other option is to run the tierod in its stock location. this would be the cheapest way since I would only need to machine the pass side knuckle and buy 1 arm. But it does leave it a little more exposed to trail damage. It will most likely be the route I take due to budget.
 
All the Ford 3/4 D44s I've seen had the flattop already. If you need one, I have one off a 78 that I'm not gonna use. Finding a 3/4t 44 will give you a better chance of 4.10s, but don't overlook the pre-77 1/2 tons. Though they had the radius arms, they are welded on, so they can be ground off. They could be found with 4.10s in them as well. Swap the outers over to 8 lug stuff from a GM, then you match the 60 rear.

The ORU knuckle isn't bad, just IMO can't justify spending $350-ish whatever on just the knuckle. Getting a knuckle machined, drilled and tapped, buying a crossover arm/studs will be half of what they charge. I have the knuckle only because I got a killer deal on a bunch of stuff from Sleddog. Even that arm only has one hole in it. Inless your going to play on rocks, don't see the nessesity to run full hi-steer, inless just a bling factor.

How much is he selling that kit for?? I don't have an 88-up anymore, this makes me want another....
 
DONT go high steer with the 44. I puts too much stress on an already weak knuckle. Just get a beefy tie rod and run it in the stock location.
 
ill watch you guys do the sas conversion and see what it takes....i wana do it to my 03 hd.....getting a ford high pinion 60 isnt the hard part its finding the right kit for the price..
 
The axles I am getting are 79 f250 D44 front and D60 rear So I should already have flat tops. (fingers crossed) I know one of the web sites has some sort of exchange for machined knuckles. So I should be good there.
 
Another question I am having is the ABS has anyone completly removed ABS?

Also I am having problems with my ABS recently and with the new axles I think ABS should just go away completely.
 
Subscribed. Soo lookin into this


Where again did you buy the kit from??

I was just browsing the other day and found this one

http://www.offroaddirect.com/

I like it but just curious.

Also i've never really gotten under mine a whole lot. So does the
 
Randy92782 said:
Subscribed. Soo lookin into this


Where again did you buy the kit from??

I was just browsing the other day and found this one

http://www.offroaddirect.com/

I like it but just curious.


Also i've never really gotten under mine a whole lot. So does the
Click to expand...


The kit Im getting is from a local Utah guy. It doesnt have a name but he has pics of about 7 or 8 SAS's that he has done the kit for. Its kind of a long shot going with a no name guy but I seen the pics and looked at the kit and I feel pretty confident with it.
 
original balzer said:
The kit Im getting is from a local Utah guy. It doesnt have a name but he has pics of about 7 or 8 SAS's that he has done the kit for. Its kind of a long shot going with a no name guy but I seen the pics and looked at the kit and I feel pretty confident with it.
Click to expand...
Yeah i know what you mean. Got a good lead on a stroker motor for my blazer but not sure if i want to trust the guy :dunno:

Good luck and i'm interested still yet
 
original balzer said:
Another question I am having is the ABS has anyone completly removed ABS?

Also I am having problems with my ABS recently and with the new axles I think ABS should just go away completely.
Click to expand...

This is something i'm concerned with if i do a SAS on my 96 GMC Sonoma 4x4. I already have the matching ford D44 & D60 8 luggers. I want to get started rebuilding the axles but i have to get more done on my blazer first. Just not enough funds for 2 projects at once. Good luck, and it will be interesting to see your go together. Jason
 
Alright i already know this answer i think but you use the Ford front ends for the passenger side drop right??

So if i wanted to change the tranny and 205 i could go with the 44 chevy i got now right??

I know lots of work but just curious
 
Randy92782 said:
Alright i already know this answer i think but you use the Ford front ends for the passenger side drop right??

So if i wanted to change the tranny and 205 i could go with the 44 chevy i got now right??

I know lots of work but just curious
Click to expand...


You could do it that way randy but you wont be able to have the speedo work. You can use a pass drop NP241 and have the stock speedo that works. Look up cajun4x4's SAS thread in the IFS section thats the route he went with, with a GM 10B front and I think he has upgraded or is in the middle of upgrading to a GM D60.
 
Usually the ford Dana 44 flat tops don't work for milling, and some places won't accept them as cores. They don't have the bosses cast in for the studs. They can be milled, but they don't have the meat in the casting. I used a pair of GM 8 lug outers on my 78 ford F250 center and inners. This guy around here touches on it. Not sure if the F250 knuckles are different though as all I bought were center sections with inner axles. Just a heads up. Look at the inside of the knuckle for the bosses.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car...uck_Parts_Accessories?_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom