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My Slow 71 GMC Build

My wife and daughter have both been really sick, so not much has happened. They are feeling better today, so I went at it again.

I installed the Energy Suspension body mounts. Their kit was packaged wrong and was missing a few parts. A quick call and they said they were shipping it out today. They were very easy to deal with.

Now, the door alignment issues that I had before seem to be better (but not great). I still have to use spacers in the hinges. The gap at the rear of the door is better. The side window frame is still out a ways. I guess this door is just bent. Also, the lower rear door corner sticks out about 3/8". I think that it is in part due to my poor metal working of the new rocker and cab corner.

I am not looking for a new driver's door, but they are very hard to come by here in Fairbanks. People either want $100,490,000,398.24 for it, or its so rusted that its beyond my ability to fix.



My new problem is that the driver's side front fender points upward. I installed the core support and hung the fender (all body mounts are torqued down). The fender appears to be about 1/4" high and the front. This is causing a wedge shaped gap between the back of the fender and the front of the door.

I am not sure how to lower the core support to fix this. Anyone else experience this? I can post photos if that would help.

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Last edited:
lukefalls said:
My wife and daughter have both been really sick, so not much has happened. They are feeling better today, so I went at it again.

I installed the Energy Suspension body mounts. Their kit was packaged wrong and was missing a few parts. A quick call and they said they were shipping it out today. They were very easy to deal with.

Now, the door alignment issues that I had before seem to be better (but not great). I still have to use spacers in the hinges. The gap at the rear of the door is better. The side window frame is still out a ways. I guess this door is just bent. Also, the lower rear door corner sticks out about 3/8". I think that it is in part due to my poor metal working of the new rocker and cab corner.

I am not looking for a new driver's door, but they are very hard to come by here in Fairbanks. People either want $100,490,000,398.24 for it, or its so rusted that its beyond my ability to fix.



My new problem is that the driver's side front fender points upward. I installed the core support and hung the fender (all body mounts are torqued down). The fender appears to be about 1/4" high and the front. This is causing a wedge shaped gap between the back of the fender and the front of the door.

I am not sure how to lower the core support to fix this. Anyone else experience this? I can post photos if that would help.

IMG_3094.jpg


IMG_3095.jpg


IMG_3096.jpg
Click to expand...


Good to hear everyone is feeling better Luke.

Adding shims to the #1 cab mount (the one at the toe board) will correct that gap for you.
 
Well, I got the body mount/cab issue sorted out. I just needed to adjust the bushings. Thank for the help on that.

Interior Towing of Fairbanks helped me a ton! The loaned me a smoked 5.3 to use for mock-up. Other than the hole in the block and oil pan leaking oil everywhere, its working perfect.

I am finding that the stock exhaust manifolds are too wide and hitting the frame. I'll look into Camaro manifolds. I've heard that they're narrower. Any input on this?

I am using a large bushing and sleeve as a motor mount. That'll get it a bit lower in the frame than the stock motor mount will. Its also easier to fab that way. Again, any input?

All that I got done tonight is to hang the engine and make plates for the block. Hopefully tomorrow, I'll have it bolted in with a new cross member.

Time for pics...

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I'm a bit disappointed with myself. I spent all day making sure that the engine was exactly where I wanted it. I measured about 50 times and got everything perfect. I really took time to make the brackets so that I won't make the "ghetto-fab" thread.

Once everything was built and lined-up, I tacked it. Then removed the engine and measured again. Then I welded everything in for good.

Ultimately, everything is okay. I was really hoping for great. I need to finish up the engine mounts with the boxed sides (with speed holes of course). I'm also going to build a cross member. Now that I have the engine in place, I can build the 3 link front and know that my links won't hit the exhaust or oil pan.

I talked to Kevin at Pacific Fab today. He was very helpful...so much so that I think that I'm going to pony up a buy an engine from him. I'd recommend Pac Fab to anyone looking for an LSx. Like I said, Kevin was super helpful.

Now, for the pics. FLAME ON:beer:

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Now that I got the engine in place, I was able to put the Ford Dana 60 in the truck. I mocked up the upper link for the 3 link. I will have definitely 7" of up travel. There is 8" until the upper link hits the frame, but I wanted at last an 1" for safety. I may need more. We'll see.

As promised...speed holes!

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I'm actually not sure. Since I don't know whether or not I'm using stock GM manifolds or headers. I'm still trying to figure out which GM exhaust manifold is the tightest to the block.

I am going to go measure right now.

Stand-by.
 
Okay, I should have enough room for the passenger side exhaust and maybe still be able to get the bolt out of the upper link. That is if I use manifolds off of a 99-03 Camaro.

The reason: I wanted my engine as low and as far back as possible. I read much better than I build. My understanding is that even minor changes in engine location have a dramatic effect on COG and weight & balance.

I believe that I am about 4" lower and 2" further back than the ECE swap mounts. I don't know if it'll be worth all of the headaches associated with make it fit, but we'll see.
 
Moving the front axle forward will give you the same effect as moving the engine back...

If there are too many issues with getting the engine back further, it's something else to consider.

:usaflag:
 
Thanks Greg. I'll keep that in mind. I did get a bit side tracked since then.

Okay, here is a small update. I messed up. Learning has occurred.

Trevor at WFO Concepts took a look at my build for me. He noticed something so obvious, I'm embarrassed that I didn't see it at first. The front lower links are too wide and the tires will him them with almost no turning. He gave me some tips.

So, I cut off the outer half of the leaf perch on the pumpkin side. I marked all the way around the perch from the rosette weld and cut. I was told to be very careful not to cut into the tube. I made a sheet metal template to measure the depth of my cut. One BFH and a beer later, off she came.

I got the springs off. Turns out that Rigid Tools make a pipe holder that will handle 2500lbs. each. For $60.00 here (probable less in the real world), they make great jack-stands.

I started making my rear lower link mounts. I just need to finish it and plate it. I also cut the top off of the Ballistic (PM me and I'll tell you how I really feel about Ballistic) brackets that I bought. Since I moved them in so far, I can't mount my shocks to them.

I placed the steering box back in and started the template for the upper pan hard bar. Now, its a matter of cutting, grinding, drilling, and welding.

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I need some input. I need input on boxing frames, cross members, and cages. Here is my specific dilemma: I need to finish my front upper link mount. Right now, the factory cross member is in the way. No big deal, its going to move when I get a different trans. I am just not sure which design (in my head) I want to use.

My new plan was to box the frame between the back of front upper link mount and the front of rear upper link mount (area under the cab/part of bed). In doing this, I hope to stiffen up the center of the frame. I was going to use large YJ bushings to build a removable cross member. I really looked at using Greg's idea of two frames, but suffered setbacks that made it prohibitive.

I know that that cross member adds rigidity to the frame. Will using bushings to make a removable cross member take away from strength/rigidity? Will boxing the frame and a well built cage make up for that?:dunno:

Before I cut things out and burn new metal in, I figured that I'd ask? Chime in and add you experience/ .02

Here is a photo of the front lower link mount. Its gusseted under the top plate and boxed behind. 3/16 flat bar. Take bets now if it'll work or fail?

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Thanks Erock. I appreciate the positive feedback.

I boxed the lower link frame mounts to add support and stiffen up the bracket. I appreciate all the reviews of the bracket.

WFO Concepts came through again and shipped me my 7/8" heims for the pan hard rod. I got it in place and cycled the suspension. *All measurements are from the lower link mounts* I have 6" of up travel when both wheels go up. That's only b/c my pan hard hits the oil pan. When I move the axle bracket and put a slight bend in the pan hard, it won't be an issue. I won't know how much up travel I have until then. I'm guess nearly 9".

On either side, I have 10" if I raise one end of the axle. That meas I'll have slightly more at the wheel. Right now, there is a ton of drop. I want to run a CV front drive shaft, but won't have enough caster. I need to cut the ends and rotate them. I really don't want to do that.

I plan on only using 8" of up travel and using a 2" bumpstop. That'll leave me with about 10" of down travel. I'm looking at 2.5" coil-overs. I'm still researching brands now. If you ask 10 different people, it seem like you get 12 different answers.

I still have a ton of research on frequency, unsprung wieght, and spring rates. That is not to mention valving or the bypass shocks I want to run.

Chime in with any info. I won't turn any of it away:popcorn:

PICS:

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Sorry, no updates or photos.

I had a few people asking about the truck. Its still mine, and its still on-going. I did not blow my budget. Well, not exactly. My wife is very pregnant with our second child (yes its a boy!). Between helping out around the house, watching the 1st child (yes, its a girl), and working a ton of OT, I have not touched it.

That and things are becoming very expensive. I don't own a tubing bender or notcher. I need enough DOM to build the cage. Here in Fairbanks, US DOM (2x.125) is close to $15 per foot. Then I need shocks and bumps. Just look up a set of 2.5" 14" and 18" Kings. Then I need my Atlas 4spd. I'm not happy with the timed-out LQ4 that I acquired. Then I need to finish the paint and body, interior, electrical, and incidentals.

I'm just taking my time and waiting. Once my son is born and my wife is back up to speed, then I'll hit it hard again.

In the mean time, Merry Christmas, Happy Chanuka, etc.
 
Baby on the way.

That's all you need to say... All the dads here know exactly what that does to your "free time"....

Patient Mistress and all that. Just mothball the project for a while and keep focused on the family. :waytogo:


:usaflag:
 
Congrats on the new upcoming arrival Luke. :waytogo:]

Looks like you should have built a blazer instead of the truck now. You're gunna need a couple more seats..:D
 
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