Head unit is an Alpine 9886 amp is currently a POS lightning audio from wally world ( at least it is made by fosgate eh? 99 bucks) I have an alpine PDX1.600 to replace it on the shelf waiting for my interior redo this summer. I used the Q logic kick panel set I found for 90 buck online somewhere with the Infinity 60.7 6.5 separates.They have a 2 ohm impeadance so they run fine on the deck power for now. The rears are located in the lock pillar about centered and are Infinity 63.7 Kappa 3 ways , also 2 ohm rated .
The sub is fed off the amp , mounted under the seat. get s a touch warm on hot days with no ac but is usually fine. the sub is an alpine 10 inch R type and is 2 ohm rated. I always hated having a sub box inthe back area of the blazer (this is my second). It is always in the way when you want to throw something in the back. so this time around i decided to keep it up over the wheel well and not cross the plane of the inner wheel well wall. that way i could slide something in and not have an issue. at first i thought i would make it just external and use a shallow mount sub. I just couldnt find any that I liked sound wise. so i decided to recess the box into the side wall. to gain the extra depth needed.
so first off I took the panel off and dynomated the side wall to dampen the resonation charateristics we all love in the blazer (tin can). I then started my calculations for my sub . origionally i was intending to use a JL audio w3 or w6 so I used those calulations. I didnt want a space to catch crap by the seat so I made sure that the sub box extended to the plane of the seat and tried to match the angle of the seat back. In the rear of the bed area of the k-5 the rear pillar is vertical . but the rear door when closed is at an angle. Having nothing but my trusty sears cir saw I didnt want another compound angle. so I shimmed the rear piller with MDf until the forward edge was enough to clear the door when closed. I used liquid nails to glue the pieces together ( took 2 thicknessed of 3/4 MDF ) and then applied some glue to the back edge and then used 2.5 inch long self tapping screw to attach them. then along the top rail i used some strips in the same fashion to give me a mount point that i can screw in the box to the truck. Those on top and then back to the rear pillar mod. I then fab'd a mock up in cardboard to set my outside dimensions. The total air space was too large so I put in a partition to reduce it and also add support and remove and vibrationin the mdf. the sub was deeper than my bock design at first . so I then put a second layer of MDF over the front to add the needed clearance .( wanted a flat surface and not a spacing ring ). I didnt like the look on the top with the blazer rail exposed as much as it was . so I laminated the top of the box with another layer of mdf. LOL i know what yor thinking yes it is way over built ..lol I get accused of it all the time . LOL
the box is sealed , but still needs some filling and I will either match the panels when i re do the interior or have it line -x;d when i have the floor done. Before i bought my Jl audio sub a buddy of mine gave me the alpine 10 so i went with it. the box air space is huge for the r type but seems to be very happy and sounds good.
The sub is fed off the amp , mounted under the seat. get s a touch warm on hot days with no ac but is usually fine. the sub is an alpine 10 inch R type and is 2 ohm rated. I always hated having a sub box inthe back area of the blazer (this is my second). It is always in the way when you want to throw something in the back. so this time around i decided to keep it up over the wheel well and not cross the plane of the inner wheel well wall. that way i could slide something in and not have an issue. at first i thought i would make it just external and use a shallow mount sub. I just couldnt find any that I liked sound wise. so i decided to recess the box into the side wall. to gain the extra depth needed.
so first off I took the panel off and dynomated the side wall to dampen the resonation charateristics we all love in the blazer (tin can). I then started my calculations for my sub . origionally i was intending to use a JL audio w3 or w6 so I used those calulations. I didnt want a space to catch crap by the seat so I made sure that the sub box extended to the plane of the seat and tried to match the angle of the seat back. In the rear of the bed area of the k-5 the rear pillar is vertical . but the rear door when closed is at an angle. Having nothing but my trusty sears cir saw I didnt want another compound angle. so I shimmed the rear piller with MDf until the forward edge was enough to clear the door when closed. I used liquid nails to glue the pieces together ( took 2 thicknessed of 3/4 MDF ) and then applied some glue to the back edge and then used 2.5 inch long self tapping screw to attach them. then along the top rail i used some strips in the same fashion to give me a mount point that i can screw in the box to the truck. Those on top and then back to the rear pillar mod. I then fab'd a mock up in cardboard to set my outside dimensions. The total air space was too large so I put in a partition to reduce it and also add support and remove and vibrationin the mdf. the sub was deeper than my bock design at first . so I then put a second layer of MDF over the front to add the needed clearance .( wanted a flat surface and not a spacing ring ). I didnt like the look on the top with the blazer rail exposed as much as it was . so I laminated the top of the box with another layer of mdf. LOL i know what yor thinking yes it is way over built ..lol I get accused of it all the time . LOL
the box is sealed , but still needs some filling and I will either match the panels when i re do the interior or have it line -x;d when i have the floor done. Before i bought my Jl audio sub a buddy of mine gave me the alpine 10 so i went with it. the box air space is huge for the r type but seems to be very happy and sounds good.
