CK5
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My truck is NOT wandering anymore! Thanks guys. Truck is back from shop

Fordum beat me to it, an axle joint can cause this and there was a thread about it not long ago that another member had the same issue and was a bad axle joint.
 
I know this is probably old stuff, but I went back and reread all the threads, and never saw where you replaced the U-Joints in the front axles.
Even with the hubs unlocked and in 2wd, they will still often turn due to grease friction.
And if they are binding, they can cause the steering problems.

Well, that was what I took it in to Napa for. They supposedly took it all apart and found that the u-joints were fine and spinning freely. They then put it all back together and repacked the bearings. They did say that the front driveshaft u-joints were toast, though. They also said that a balljoint needs to be done soon (I have to double-check which one on the receipt)

You say it pulls to the right, releases, and then does it again.
How fast? And does the rate change with vehicle speed?

Yes it does that exactly. Slow and moderate speeds. Seems to go away at highway speeds.

The next thing I would do, is jack up the right front, and spin the tire to see if there is anything binding.
Try it with the tire straight ahead and turned.
I had it on jackstands today and spun the tire when I put it back on. It was binding a bit (won't spin freely) but I believe that is due to the rotors being a bit rusty from sitting for the last couple weeks.

Also get someone to drive another vehicle while a passenger watches the wheels and all parts as you drive looking for any wobble or wiggle.
Will try this when I can (but won't be for a while, night shifts this weekend :doah:)

Also, just because someone repacked the wheel bearings, don't assume that they are good.
But, you should feel something when you spin the wheel.
Napa repacked one side (the side that was leaking). They said that the bearings looked fine as well as the seals so they didn't replace anything, just re-packed.

I was impressed with Napa only because they never charged me a cent for all the diagnostics and repacking the bearings... they did give me a hefty quote expecting me to return to have the steering box replaced..

Just started to read this after your other post to see what was going on. Am I reading this right, it pulls then lets go? Was there ever a brake check? Going straight, or trying to turn or does it during both? And was there talk about a hydroboost? Is or was it installed?

Correct, pulls to the right and lets go, then repeats. If I turn to the left it over-corrects quickly, could be dangerous so I'm not going to drive it until I get this figured out.

I have been told that my brakes were good. I've had the truck in to Napa and a local dodge dealership (:doah: no chevy dealerships close by:haha:)

Whats on your mind?

It usually only happens when driving straight, haven't noticed it when turning, although maybe right after a turn, then I try to correct it by turning left and again- overcorrects.

No hydraboost. Stock TBI 350 K5. I put a 6.2 diesel steering gearbox (they have hydraboost) but they are not different that the 350 box. Wasn't sure about fluids though so I flushed it with 2 litres of power steering fluid before bleeding the system.

Its been a learning experience! :doah::haha:
Thanks guys :waytogo:
 
Have you pulled the steering damper off yet and tried driving it to see if the problem goes away? Those can also cause your problem. I'll lay odds that it's either a bad steering damper or bad axle joints. Do you know FOR SURE that NAPA took the whole front end apart and actually checked the axle joints? I'll about guarantee that if they didn't charge you for doing any diagnostic work that they DID NOT take it apart but rather just tried to spin the axle with their hands through the knuckle (can't tell usually from doing that). It's a fairly large time consuming job to take the axle down to the knuckles just to check axle joints and then for a shop to do this without charging you just seems really fishy. :deal:
 
Don't know for sure. You're probably right, they would have spun them with their little hands :haha:

I'll try pulling the steering damper off tomorrow and take her for a drive.

I would not even put it back on either, I removed mine years ago and couldn't even tell a difference, I did replace with hydro assist though after I couldn't fix a DW issue BUT I did drive without the damper for a while before adding hydro assist. What i'm saying is save your money here as it doesn't do much of anything on ours rigs that have been lifted and modified as we all do, maybe in a stock situation they might have helped a little.
 
They also said that a balljoint needs to be done soon

How bad is this balljoint? If it's loose, it can cause the problems you're describing. If it needs to be replaced anyway, why not do it now? Then you won't have to feel silly messing with other stuff when I brought this up back on page 1 :D
 
Well, I removed the steering damper today and surprise surprise, no difference :rolleyes: so I just left it off.

Now I'm thinking I might just have the shop do the right side upper and lower balljoints and u-joint. He quoted me just over $500 for that work.
 
Well. Truck is going in on Tuesday.

Still not sure what I want them to do. I'm thinking it must either be the u-joints or the brakes.. something that other shops missed somehow.. I hope this doesn't get too costly.:doah:

Is it possible that because it pulls to the right its only the right side that is causing the problem? In that case I might just get them to replace the passenger axle joint, upper and lower balljoints, and check the brakes-specifically on that side.

I'm also thinking of having them do the front driveshaft, since its on its way out too.

EDIT:
I should say that its not going to NAPA.. Its going to a local shop that I can trust a little better (small town type) although he still has to charge his 95$ shop rate regardless of what they're doing.. hope he can cut me a bit of a break.
 
are you mechanically inclined at all?
If so: jack the truck up, one front wheel at a time, check play on the ball joints, check the wheel bearings and brake drag
 
I have done all of that, and have had other shops do the same. Myself, (and them) haven't noted anything overly abnormal.. although I'm no expert and I didn't know the mechanics. At least this time I can trust the shop. I also don't have time to tear down the axle myself
 
without reading this entire thread..

you say wandering, is it pulling one way, or wandering all over the road? how's the leaf spring bushings?
 
tires new? swap the front tires, see if it changes. if you take off from a light, and hit 50mph, without ever hitting the brakes, it will pull right, then straighten up, then pull again? on any surface? certain roads?
 
Hmmm. Here is my list for them:

1-Replace passenger upper and lower balljoints
2-Check braking system for binding
3-Replace front axle u-joints
4-Check front wheel bearings

5-not sure if they can do this, replace front driveshaft joints

napa said that passenger wheel bearings were fine, so they repacked them..
 
Sounds like I list I could get done in an afternoon, no problem! You sure you wanna drop that much coin at a shop for something relatively easy to do on your own?
 
sounds like something is dragging, either the caliper or wheel bearings. Could be the axle shaft ujoint i guess, but not likely

Oh, no. It's very likely. Trust me. Like I stated back in the first few pages of this thread, it's the front axle u-joints. I've been there.

After myself and others affirmed it was the axle joints the OP decided to check out and replace other items with little success. So, here we are with the same problem. Don't get me wrong, everything that Confed suggested is all good things to check, but they've all been covered early on in the thread.

The big, glaring problem at this point is that DK5 is now having only one side done. Which is fine. But if the problem still exists after the ONE SIDE is done he's gonna question whether or not that was the issue. But the reality is that the OTHER SIDE will need the same repair. So, DK5, keep that in mind after you get the truck back from the shop, and plan on getting the drivers side done when funds allow.
 

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