B_to_C said:
SierraClassic, thank you so much!
1) Can this be caused by a vacuum leak (I didn't check for a vacuum leak over the weekend, but all hte lines were repplaced during the engine swap)
2) I don't own a voltmeter yet
But for when I do get one....you can ADJUST the TPS? Any more info on that?
3)
K
4) I didn't have a timing light over the weekend, but after looking at my second log... I got to thinking. The fuel in my tank during that first log was from a ghetto 7-11. Just before the second log, I had filled up at a safeway gas station....again
Here's the log from after I filled up with safeway gas, still with the auto-PROM.
http://www.noideaz.com/images/CK5/Log2.txt
And here's the log after I installed the manual-PROM (and replaced spark plugs, wires, and ignition module)
http://www.noideaz.com/images/CK5/Log3.txt
1) Its possible, but at this point in time I'm assuming that it doesn't have a leak. We'll continue narrowing the problems down before we assume that the engine has a vac leak.
2) Adjusting the TPS is easy, simply take a torx bit, loosen the two screws a bit (be careful, its easy to shear them off if they are corroded in place) then twist the whole sensor forwards or backwards to adjust it. TBI is a bit handy in that it automatically assumes that whatever voltage is reported when the engine is first started is the base voltages, but it is still good practice to set it to about .54 volts.
3) This was more of just a symptom report more than just an exact problem. Simply put, whatever is causing your problems is causing the ECM to either be fooled into thinking it is lean, or is actually leaning your mixture out. However, it isn't always leaned out, infact while accelerating, your BLMs are pretty good with the new chips!
As Dorian mentioned, you can't just splice wires that are the same color together and expect it to work
Infact, to tell the truth, you really don't need that module at all, as you no longer have the VSS in the transmission tailshaft.
To wire it up, you need to hook the VSS's black / white wire to a good ground, pink / black wire to a 12 volt ignition source, and zip the brown wire straight to pin A10, as mentioned by Dorian. The ECM has two connectors, one is small, the other larger. The smaller one is connector A / B, with one bank of wires being A, and the other being B. If you look at the end of the connector that is going into the ECM, you will see small numbers printed on the front face, so you can identify which pin is which. The bank letter is printed on the opposite side of the connector, and is visible when you pop the blue or grey wire retainers off.
Now, your new logs look better than the first one you posted did. Your knock counts are down to normal level from what was a fairly scary one, but your TPS is still reporting very unusual percentages. Thats exactly what the numbers being reported for the TPS are BTW, a percentage. It assumes 5 volts to be 100%, and .54 volts to be 0%. So, any time you are at a negative percentage, the TPS is sending less voltage than it should and may indicate a dead spot on the sensor.
However, in your case, the thing never shows more than 5 - 6 percent, so I'm guessing it isn't working at all... That may not mean the sensor is shot though, you need to make sure that the grey reference voltage wire has about 5 volts across it, that the blue sensor return wire is showing about .54 volts, and that the other wire goes to the correct sensory ground wire in the ECM.
The high idle is another thing that you need to figure out. Your IAC counts should be at about 20, while the truck is idling at about 650 rpm.
So, your mission right now is to test the TPS, and see if it is receiving proper reference voltages etc from the ECM, then once you've fixed it, or confirmed it's operation, then you want to set minimum air. This is done by shorting out the white / black wire with the black / white wire on the ALDL connector under the dash while the truck is in the ignition on position, but not running.
The ECM should start flashing codes on the SES light, if it reports anything other than code 12, post it here. Meanwhile, the ECM will also be commanding the IAC to close as far as it'll go. Give it at least 30 seconds to do so, then grab the IAC connector, and unhook it. You then want to unshort the ALDL connector, and fire the truck up. If it won't start, your throttle blades are too far shut, and need to be manually opened using the throttle adjustment screw. They are located in the same spot as on any carb, but occasionally have a little plug infront of them. Just stick a punch through it, and pop it out. It then takes a torx bit to turn. Turn the idle up a bit, unitl the truck starts.
Let it idle till it gets to full operating temperature, at 195 degrees F, then adjust the idle so it is about as low as it'll run smoothly. On a stock small block, that is around 450 - 500 rpm or so. Once you've got it set so it runs smoothly, you'll want to adjust the TPS to about .54 volts, then you can then plug the IAC back in, give it a rev or two to get it to open the idle air passage up, then kill the engine. Pull the positive battery cable for about a minute to erase the IAC code, then fire it back up again. Should idle up for a few seconds, then promptly drop back down to about 650 rpm or so on it's own.
If its still having issues at this point, then at least we'll have a fair number of potential sensory problems eliminated already
Keep us posted!
Russ
)
I don't get how to adjust it, the way you explained it seemed really simple, but the whole sensor doesn't move with the torx bolts bolted in (even loosened). So, 
