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Mysterious knocking sound, what could it be, Read pg2. and on

Until all the t-case fluid drains out the real seal (unless it has a SYE kit).
 
until the spider gears wear out. or wear the lock mechanism. im not sure what it is that wears. but it will start getting a clunk when you let off and on the throttle. but it takes quite a while for that to happen. i dont think a month would hurt it. i drove mine like that for atleast a year. it had over 200k miles on it at the time, and was getting pretty clunky before i swapped it out.
 
1BEATK5 said:
until the spider gears wear out. or wear the lock mechanism. im not sure what it is that wears. but it will start getting a clunk when you let off and on the throttle. but it takes quite a while for that to happen. i dont think a month would hurt it. i drove mine like that for atleast a year. it had over 200k miles on it at the time, and was getting pretty clunky before i swapped it out.
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oh okay.. well its already like that, but I have no other choice
 
I drove around a week or so on my old front 10 bolt when my old shortbox blew up another rear end. It was fine.

wheel it in front....
[youtube]BXvY-t_sqAQ[/youtube]
 
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I did it for a week or two while I sourced a rear driveline. It's no big deal. It's just like a 2WD Subaru or those old Revcon motorhomes. But this will be the time any worn components up front (slip yoke, u-joints, bearings) show their problems.
 
Blue85 said:
I did it for a week or two while I sourced a rear driveline. It's no big deal. It's just like a 2WD Subaru or those old Revcon motorhomes. But this will be the time any worn components up front (slip yoke, u-joints, bearings) show their problems.
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yeah.. Just making sure, I have to be VERY light on the throttle. or else I hear popping, or clunking..

also I only got like $120 left after fixing my Tcase.

still in need of the Rear driveline

anyone got one ?:P
 
pick a part yo

and I hear using solid U joints or ones without bearings would have a hard time running like you are. At least not any kind of speed.

just what I heard or read, dunno. thoughts?
 
ehh im back on kinda.. well I got my rear driveshaft and what not.. but NOW guess what.. GUESS WHAT!>!!!!


hrm what's that sound?? ... KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK -_-.

think my engine is toast.. unless it's some mysterious part that broke that sounds like an engine knock.
 
Well, there are things that will mimic an engine knock. I have heard auto trannys make noises that I would have sworn came from the rear main.

Also, alternators, rocker arm pivot balls......

What does it sound like, and can you make it change by pulling and replacing one spark plug wire at a time?
 
Fordum said:
Well, there are things that will mimic an engine knock. I have heard auto trannys make noises that I would have sworn came from the rear main.

Also, alternators, rocker arm pivot balls......

What does it sound like, and can you make it change by pulling and replacing one spark plug wire at a time?
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I started to pull my plugs off one by one. but I had to go somewhere. and I left my keys on. my battery is dead need to get a jump and ill do that tomorrow!
 
okay so, I pulled off each plugwire. one by one. One at a time. Replacing it as I pulled it off then started my truck. The knock was still there. through all 8 cylinders. so..

does that mean. FLEXPLATE?!
 
The plug wire trick is not 100%, but pulling that plug takes the load off that cylinder, and if you have a rod or main knocking, it will usually respond.

If its not a high pitched clicking from the top end, which would indicate valve train problems, odds are flexplate, tranny pump if its an auto, or something non-engine.
 
Fordum said:
The plug wire trick is not 100%, but pulling that plug takes the load off that cylinder, and if you have a rod or main knocking, it will usually respond.

If its not a high pitched clicking from the top end, which would indicate valve train problems, odds are flexplate, tranny pump if its an auto, or something non-engine.
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okay and also. the last time I drove my truck.. When I went to pass someone. The tranny downshifted. But just stayed in second. Just wanted to Revv out.

so what would you think it is
 
OK, in rereading your previous post, I think we need to redo the sparkplug test.
You need to crank the engine, and with it running and knocking, pull and replace the plug wires one at a time.

The engine needs to be running when you do the test so you can hear a difference. It might get better or worse, but it will usually change.
If your plug wires have a few miles on them, you might want to use one of those insulated plug wire pullers.

If that is the way you did it, then post the type of transmission. Someone here might be able to help better than I.
Of course, check the fluid level.
Your pump might be having problems. That could cause a knock and erratic shifting.

Plus, it would not hurt to check the flexplate.

Did the knock start as soon as either the transmission or engine was changed?
There are ways that the coupling between the two can hook up wrong that will cause noises.
 
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