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Need 2 800 watt Amps

D

Ddragggon

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hello, I've got a rather nice setup of MTX subwoofers in my truck ( 2 10 inch 4000 series thunders, 2 12 inch 4000 series thunders) and need not 1, but 2 800 watt amps ( 400 RMS, 800 Max) to power this set. anyone have any suggestions on what to use, or where I might be able to get something of this nature? the clsoest I;ve found at a decent price was a Clarion amp ( sorry, don't know the numbers) at best buy (bleck)

other stats include 2 pioneer 4 way 6x9's, and eventually 4 5-6 inch speakersin the doors ( its a suburban) with the amp power behind it to back it up.

-Rich
1977 C20 suburban
454/400 trailering special

Do not meddle in the affairs of Dragons, for you are Crunchy, and taste good with Ketchup
 
Good god! Are you going into compatition er somethin???!

cowgirl_ropin_lg_wht.gif

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://k5chevyblazer.homestead.com/home.html>http://k5chevyblazer.homestead.com/home.html</A>
 
personally i dont like to mix sizes on the speakers... but if you want to run something like that i would look into something like the orion hcca amps.. cost a little more but worth the price due to the fact that they are stable to 1/2 ohm load... an orion hhca amp that pushes out 50x2 watts will actully push over 650 watts... 2 of those amps will do what you need... but it will be a little harder on the amps... or go with ppi... ( neither of these amps are cheap) but remember.. you get what you pay for... buy cheap get cheap....

Prembird

If it aint loud then turn it up!
 
I'd have to agree. Avoid mixing sub sizes. Different size subs have different specs and can sound very different.

As for the HCCA suggestion, if you are going THAT big, match em with HCCA subs. An HCCA 12d with an HCCA amp feeding it 1200x1 at 1ohm mono did a 150.something in a Honda CRX. Thats damn loud for 1 12.....

Dan, '86 K5, 5.0L v8, NP208, TH700R4, open 10bolts front and rear, 3.43gearing, K&N filter, 31x10.50R15 Trailhandlers
 
I mixed sub sizes for the reason of carrying over a slightly wider range of noises. the boxes these are going in, are spec'ed out by MTX on thier website, to have a matched internal Airmass, and tuned port on them. my brother is building the box, and so far so good on it... although its been a stalled project for a while now. I'm basicaly looking for an amp that does 200x2 RMS, 400x2 peak, to match the ratings on the speakers I have. I;m also looking for a 4x100 amp for the door speakers I plan on installing ( although the door speaker type may change again... havn't yet purchased them yet) I'm contemplating goign with some pioneer 6.5"s but might change mind on that before too long.... they sound good, and for a Suburban as ugly as mine, I don't need infinity componentry for my stereo, I need something that sounds decent, at a good price, and can play over the roar of a Straitpipe 454.... Pioneer seems to fit this bill pretty well.

-Rich


Visualize an atlantic 442 Steam engine running at full tilt here...
 
I have a Crunch Drive 800W DS-4002 . Some people may think it sucks for whatever reason. I like it and it seems to work well enough. I got it for $125 (on eBay seller Scala1- they sell great stuff cheap!). Over $100 less then I saw it at most places... I personally don't think you have to spend a ton to get good stuff. But that's just me. Most of these high end brands have lights and little gizmos which raise the cost. I just wanted something to work and this does the job... it powers two 10" MTX subs in a sealed box just so you know...
smile.gif


"Suck Fumes Ford Boy"
"I love my country, I fear my government"
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.chevycagal.homestead.com/steph.html>http://www.chevycagal.homestead.com/steph.html</A>
 
If i remember right that is one of there better amps... as for all the little lights and buttons... well it does rise the cost a little but that is what you pay for flexablity... but hey... sounds like you got a hell of a deal on an amp.... and it should be putting plenty of power to those subs...

Prembird

If it aint loud then turn it up!
 
I think I'm going ot end up getting a couple 2 or 3 clarion 400.4's, and/or 400.3's to run the speakers in my doors, and the Subs. I know everyone bags on jenseon Amps, and stuff, but the one I have under the seat was a 300 watt amp at 4 ohms, (2x150 RMS) and only cost me 85 bucks. most anythign else that I've ever seen that claims to run more then 300 watts only does it at something stupid liek .5 ohs or something ( 20 wattsx4@ 4 ohms, 45 wattsx4@2 ohms. overall rating 58000 watts@-32 ohms )

the other thing about this amp was it only cost me 80 bucks, after tax, new from Fry's.


one of these years,

-Rich

Visualize an atlantic 442 Steam engine running at full tilt here...
 
When you mix sub woofer sizes you creat different bass waves in the vehicle, you absolutely DO NOT gain different sounds by runnig a slightly smaller sub woofer. The key to this is that you are runnig SUBwoofers, they are going to produce sub bass. If you are trying to get a wide range of bass out of your woofers then you need to pay attention to the way the box is built. You will not gain any midbass by doing this. When you run, lets say 2-10" brand a woofers, and 2-12" brand b. Think about it lik this, it is going to take X amount of time for a 12" sub to miove in and out to create a bass note, the 10" woofer will move differently and cause you to have to different bass waves which can and will cause Cancelation. It is not often you will hear me use that word, canelation, I usually say you need not worry about it, but in this case it will work against you. If you are trying to get "different" bass sounds you need to look into running a MIDbass woofer, for example a FOCAL 6.5" polykevlar woofer. I think that will give you what it is you say you are trying to achieve.

[image]http://www.darkknight.ca/images/dklogo.gif[/image]
http://autotronixcaraudio.com
 
i agree with dblazer on this one... the 10 in will responde faster then the 12 will... and by doin so it will cause a little cancelation..also by mixing subs.. ie.. 10 are fosgate and 12 are jl audio... you will have problems also since the speakers actually move different and produce the wave different you will end up with cancelation... the largest i would go are 8 in and 12in combo... and just a crossover to get rid of the low end goin to the 8 or run it full range... but that is just my $.02 worth


Prembird

If it aint loud then turn it up!
 
I am nto mixing brands here, they are both MTX's,
4124
4104
are the 2 speakers I;m using. I don't believe I'll really have taht much in the way of cancelaction coming from them, and I don;t really think that response time between The 10's and 12's is going to be different. a signal sent to a speaker @ 35 Hz, is still going to move at 35 HZ, regardless of wether its a 6 inch speaker, or a 15 inch subwoofer. hte speaker will vibrate at 35 Hz, and the note that will come out will be at 35 Hz. teh box I am building for it is sized, tuned, and ported to exacting specifications as posted online by MTX. the reason I don;t forsee any problems with bass cancelation is because of the setup I run in my room. I have 2 10 inch 3 way speakers stacked on top of 2 18 inch 4 way speakers, and running them both at the same time does not in any way shape or form kill the bass sound. if anything, it makes it more solid, and fills in the gaps better. ( teh 18's are good for the really low, and really high, but lack in the mid ranges, whereas the 10's are good in the middle and high ranges, but completely lack in the lower range. )

I may never have built a box of this nature before, but my bro has, and I took my physics class in highschool like a good little highschooler. Time will tell on this one wether it works out and sounds right or not, but I believe it'll work fine, adn sound great. I'll let you know when I get enough time to finish up the job, and get the Amps for it.

-Rich

Visualize an atlantic 442 Steam engine running at full tilt here...
 
The reason there might be some cancelation in it is the fact that the 10 in movement (doesnt matter the note) will recover faster then the 12 in will... so as the 12 is recovering the 10 is already goin to the next note... as for the home setup there wont be a problem because the 18's cant produce what the 10s can...and the 10's can produce what the 18's cant... and there is enough of a gap between the sizes that it doesnt matter...but when trying to run 10's and 12's at the same time you can run into this problem... so i guess in other words that you might not really get alot of cancelation out of it but you would probably get what sounds like an echo effect from the 12's since they take longer to recover...

Prembird

If it aint loud then turn it up!
 
Most SQ/SPL competitors do NOT mix sub sizes(no matter if they are the same brand or not) because there is cancellation; it would do more harm than good. So you know, the sub is not what creates the tight sounding midbass, it is the midbass/midrange drivers that do this. Running 10's to cover the frequencies above the 12's really won't help out a lot, they can't play high enough to cover what a good set of mid's will do.
I would personally drop the 10's out of the picture and give more power to the 12's, cross them from 80Hz down, bandpass a pair of mids from 60/80-500, midrange from 500-3k or so, and tweets from there. This is how my setup will be(I have all my equipment, just need to install it all once I find a decent K5 around here to buy).

Premier DEX-P98R, Pioneer DEQ-P800, Phoenix Gold BASS Cube, HiFonics VI Callisto, HiFonics VI Olympus(110x4), HiFonics VII Odin(120x2), two HiFonics VII Boltars(700x2), Ground Zero Nuclear 12"(vented), Image Dynamics IDQ62 6.5" mids, Image Dynamics CXS54 5.25" separates, Stinger SP1000
 
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