CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Need 4-link calculator help ,
- Thread starter yellowK20
- Start date
Ahhhh....The smell of fresh brackets in the morning......Is it done yet? 
It's getting closer, coilovers and hoops are purchased still need full hydro Ram and steering valve
So I ended up doing a radius arm setup instead of a 3-link mostly due to my exhaust routing I don't want to redo brand new 2.5" duals
I also ended up with a set of 14" FOA's definetly not my first choice but the price was right , and it's getting close to wheeling season
I also ended up with a set of 14" FOA's definetly not my first choice but the price was right , and it's getting close to wheeling season
Best of luck with those FOA's Everyone I know that has them have had nothing but trouble.
We've had good luck so far with one set.
Believe me they are not my first choice, in brand or travel length . This set is proven though they have been under a rockwelled blazer on big AGS for 2 seasons . And I got the pair for 350.00 which is a decent deal I think for what I'm getting.
At this point mama wants the rig done so we can go wheeling and camping with our friends instead of perpetual build mode.
At this point mama wants the rig done so we can go wheeling and camping with our friends instead of perpetual build mode.
Wise move just upgrade later on
Your exhaust is the reason we build a 4 link system for production. (yes, it's 5 with the panhard bar) We ran radius arms on a couple, they work mostly OK. Converge them on the frame side all you can, like start wide on the axle and bring the tails inside of the frame rails if you can. And be prepared to monkey with bushings to tune articulation ability, bushing durability and axle roll control. You'll be happy with 14" of travel, don't sweat it.
Bushings on one end of the upper link of the radius arm , all other points will be 1.25" heims
When I do the LS swap I will doing new exhaust and at that point I will change over to the 3-link as planned .
@Stephen on your new rear 4-link kit are you able to fit coilovers under the body or do you have to cut wheelwells?
When I do the LS swap I will doing new exhaust and at that point I will change over to the 3-link as planned .
@Stephen on your new rear 4-link kit are you able to fit coilovers under the body or do you have to cut wheelwells?
This x1000 it's amazing what is in the way in there and not so much room like everyone leads you to believe.. on ours we make it wristed to negate the need for a big bushing. But that does add another thing to do when you get to the trail.
14 inches of travel as @Stephen said will do amazing things.
Under the knife soon
Gus ( @yellowK20 ) have you seen the metal cloak joints?
Duroflex is what they call em. It's an encapsulated ball in a rubber joint. Nowhere for mud and sand to get in and wear it out faster. But still with lots of misalignment
Duroflex is what they call em. It's an encapsulated ball in a rubber joint. Nowhere for mud and sand to get in and wear it out faster. But still with lots of misalignment
I have not, but I will check them out . I already bought all my heims from Ruffstuff though, so this go around I will be running them.
Something along that line would be really good for us we do A lot of water crossings in glacial rivers , the silt that is carried in that water destroys any metal on metal surface.
Eric knows what we are up against here, it's really a unique environment.
If you are worried about corrosion Id be running a bushing at every joint besides the chassis mount.
Yeah , we have tried that it works ok , but honestly we just chalk it up as a wear item and run the heims to get less bind.
If you quit driving your ozone depleting, global warming causing truck, the icebergs would quit melting and you wouldn't have that issue any longer.
It's a hybrid, runs on whale fat and baby seal tears
