Need a complete how to for High sterr

[Supreme70]

I have been searching but I cant find a complete how to do high sterr on my dana 44, I have a six inch lift with 36 iroks and the stock sterring is for a%$.

I want to change everthing over and I know I will need 77 or later flat top knuckes and get them drilled for the high sterr brackets, but what else do i have to have toget it done. I mean I need a list and how to???

Yes I have serached and with no luck unless im missing something.

 

[obijuan]

you need a 2wd steering box or swap sector shafts
you need the drop pitman arm from a ford van if i remember right. superlift part number XXXX also

you need a new draglink rod ends and maybe a new tie rod
you need the two arms for both knuckles
you gotta get the knuckle machined.


check out offroad design cause theyve got a good pic of what all you need.
this is for d60 but pretend its a 44

 

[Leper]

What he said. And nice pic.

Lots of people make complete crossover kits.

 

[RockinChevy]

Check here: http://www.wfoconcepts.com/Steering/Dana44/listing.html

I'm not sure if the pricing is okay but you have plenty of options.

 

[Supreme70]

so what is better high steer or cross over steering??? I don't know much about either and would i have to modify anything If I go with the high steer or cross over.

 

[1-tonmudder]

I have both but would recommend the crossover over the hi-steer.The crossover will help decrease your turning radius,and the hi-steer just get's the tierod up above the axle where it's better protected.

You will have to change gear boxes or at least the sector shaft in it and will have to get a PS flattop and have it milled/drilled to accept the hi-steer arm.

 

[Supreme70]

I have both but would recommend the crossover over the hi-steer.The crossover will help decrease your turning radius,and the hi-steer just get's the tierod up above the axle where it's better protected.

Do you have any pics of them installed on your truck. How expensive for the cross over???

 

[1-tonmudder]

Here's a few.Yeah I know my draglink is not tightThe first one is when I was doing my hydro-assist

 

[ryoken]

What springs are those and have you had any clearance issues?

 

[1-tonmudder]

They are 4inch Ranchos and a set ORD Zero rate's.I know it look's awful close in the pics but it does clear.The only problem I have had is that when I moved the axle forward it put the drag link and tierod super close when turned all the way right.

I'm using a ORD shackle flip and a set of zero rates in back and clear 38.5's with just a little fender trimming.

 

[ryoken]

hmmm, good to here... that'll be my setup, plus a 1" bl and 38's.. I'm hoping to keep hacking to a minimum...

have you figured out hydro mounting yet?

and is the tierod the same length for hi-steer as it is down low?

 

[1-tonmudder]

Here is what I did for my hydro mount.

I would recommend using the polyfil locknut's on the U-bolt's instead of a reg nut.After a weekend of riding they will loosen a bit.I just havent changed mine yet.Do a search for Greg72,he used a rigid coupler on his and that is what I wanted to do but did not have the clearence for it since the axle was moved forward.You can also search for Boz42,he is running both hi-steer and X-over but mounted his off the housing.


The tierod for the hi-steer is shorter than it would be in the stock location,but if you could find a tierod that was adjustable on both ends(one tierod was'nt fixed)I dont see why you couldnt use a stock tierod.

 

[Supreme70]

Is that a 2 wheel drive box on your truck and what is the pitman arm is that off of????

 

[1-tonmudder]

Yeah it's off a 80's model 2wd truck.The steering arm was in the kit from ORD but I think it's just an arm for a lifted Ford.What I have is the very kit Obijaun pictured earlier.

 

[wayne]

hmmm, good to here... that'll be my setup, plus a 1" bl and 38's.. I'm hoping to keep hacking to a minimum...

have you figured out hydro mounting yet?

and is the tierod the same length for hi-steer as it is down low?

No, it will be shorter for hi steer. I am looking at converting mine and just plan to cut one end and retap it.

 

[wayne]

They are 4inch Ranchos and a set ORD Zero rate's.I know it look's awful close in the pics but it does clear.The only problem I have had is that when I moved the axle forward it put the drag link and tierod super close when turned all the way right.

I'm using a ORD shackle flip and a set of zero rates in back and clear 38.5's with just a little fender trimming.

With the zero rates up front and it being that close to the top of the springs, chack to make sure your draglink clears the spring when flexed. On my last K5 I had zero rates up front and the draglink rubbed the spring on the passenger side when flexed.

 

[Leper]

So did mine. I got rid of the high steer because of it.

 

[AZ79K5Project]

so what is better high steer or cross over steering??? I don't know much about either and would i have to modify anything If I go with the high steer or cross over.

Use caution with high steer on a Dana 44. This puts a lot of stress on the studs. Crossover is fine.

Keep in mind the main reason to do high steer is to prevent the tie rod from being damaged by rocks and other debris/obstacles while wheeling. I think most of these guys running high steer are running D60's with much stronger 4 bolt mounting points.

edit: Here's a pic of crossover mounting on the passenger side on my 10 bolt:

 

[Supreme70]

Use caution with high steer on a Dana 44. This puts a lot of stress on the studs. Crossover is fine.

Keep in mind the main reason to do high steer is to prevent the tie rod from being damaged by rocks and other debris/obstacles while wheeling. I think most of these guys running high steer are running D60's with much stronger 4 bolt mounting points.

edit: Here's a pic of crossover mounting on the passenger side on my 10 bolt:
View attachment 60565

Do u have a picture of the whole set up????

 

[AZ79K5Project]

Here's some info and pics when I did my crossover:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200968

The link has pics before the zero rates. The pic below is after the zero rate install:


Cliff note version of crossover (I think I hit all the main points):
1. The stock steering box uses a push pull drag link. Short link + lift = bump steer and death wobble when other parts of the steering are starting to wear and not in perfect setup.

2. Crossover requires either swapping the entire steering box from a 4WD to a 2WD box. There are two different style 2WD boxes. All I know from reading is the hose connections are different. Someone smarter than me about those specifics will need to step up. Make sure you bleed the steering system before starting the engine when you do this step.

You can also use a 2WD sector shaft swap. This is what I did and got a steering box leak out of the deal. (Rebuild in the future)

3. You will need either a Ford van pitman arm from a junk yard or a new drop pitman arm to re-index it from front/back to left/right on the sector shaft. I bought a new drop pitman arm. I didn't have the time to search local yards.

4. A bent drag link CLICK is needed or a replacement cross member may be needed. I went with a bent drag link to prevent the drag link from hitting the stock cross member. I used CLICK - Parts Mike for everything. I ordered a custom bent drag link for my set up. It was about the same price as a pre-bent.

5. CLICK Steering box brace SHOULD be done at the same time. Either a weld in or bolt in. I went with the bolt in. I didn't have any cracks around the steering box bolt holes.

I also did zero rates when I did my shackle flip. I went from a 2 1/2 to a 4" front lift + the zero rates.

I had Part's Mike install new ball joints on both knuckles when they did the milling. I also replaced all the tie rod ends when I did mine.

I can swap all of the crossover stuff onto a D60 if I ever decide to go that route.

Plan your project when possible. I got a great deal on Yukon 4340 shafts. I held on to them for almost a year until I had the money to do the crossover. I did the crossover, Lock - Right and shafts at the same time since it was torn apart.