need a electric clutch pulley for a hydro pump UPDATED post #16 all fixed with pics

[sweetk30]

i got a fisher snow plow hydro pump on my truck and the dam thing just spun the coil body and sheered off the 2 wires to the coil.

anyone got any places thay know of to get parts for this thing ?

its to old to get from fisher and didnt make them but for 2-4 years worth. and yes i know of a few plow websites to chat on.

but i figured mabye someone whould know of a place just for these units.

its page #3 and scroll down on that page for part # 8836 section of the pump and its part 8842 the coil body / pulley / clutch head. http://library.fisherplows.com/fisherplows/pdf/6460_071995.pdf

thanks guys got to fix this before the snow fly's around here.

 

[Fordum]

Try this. Can't narrow it down any farther, since I don't have the data.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=&byKeyword=yes&search=clutch

Or check here. Mostly full pumps here though.

 

[Fordum]

Second link didn't make it.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial

 

[sweetk30]

dont need whole pump just clutch head .

and those pumps all way to big for my needs in gpm and psi .

also i dont have time and cash to make one of them fit.

 

[diesel4me]

What shaft size doesyour pump have??--straight or tapered??...keyed or no key??...Surplus Center sells a few 12V clutches without pumps on the page Fordum linked here that might work...possibly a A/C compressor clutch might work too,depending on what shaft your pump has..

 

[Fordum]

What shaft size doesyour pump have??--straight or tapered??...keyed or no key??...Surplus Center sells a few 12V clutches without pumps on the page Fordum linked here that might work...possibly a A/C compressor clutch might work too,depending on what shaft your pump has..

Yep, that was why I posted that link first. Meant to link to the pumps too, but I must have missed.
Figured if he could not find a clutch, he could at least get a pump.
Since I did not have the data of what shaft or type, I could not zero in on which surplus center clutch would work.

If all else fails, given the relatively small amount of fluid needed, he might try haunting the junkyards or places that move equipment to try to find the power head for a lift gate.

It would require some rewiring, since those units are not designed to run continuously.
But, a switch hooked to the control stick could kick it on when pressure was needed.

 

[mudbuggy]

If it were me, I would take it to my buddy at autozone, he hunts my land so he is always willing to hunt around for things when I ask. Might bet lucky and find it fits a 1988 Yugo, ya never know! You do realize that the clutch itself could run upwards of 100 bucks. I had to replace one on the dodge hydro setup a year ago, I just said the hell with it and replaced the e-clutch and pump in one deal and I have the three year warranty.

Happy Hunting

 

[sweetk30]

will try and get pics and specs tursday .

and dont want full electric for plow to much crap to go bad.

and its not a std style flat 4 bolt mount clutch like yorks took and the few i seen on the link fordum posted.

 

[sweetk30]

well took it all apart today . found 1/2" shaft non tapered with keyway on shaft.

after pulling it all apart slow and steady i see were it was messed up right from the factory .

i found the snapring for the coil body to the coil body shaft housing was not on correctly and this let the snap ring come off and jamb up in to the bearing for the pulley section . that inturn let the coil body come off the index on the coil body housing and flop around and snap the index pin off and let the coil go spinning around with the pulley and snap off the wires. this also started to chew up the coil housing body surface area also .

otherwise it all looks good. if i could fix the coil body wires and take some 800-1000 grit sand paper and smoth up the coil housing body shaft and get a new snap ring and index pin i might be able to possibly save this thing.

but as i said here is pics of the damage .

as you can seethis setup is just like new and only paint worn off whas from grinding as it self destructed.

pic 1 and 2 normal

pic 3-4-5 show some damage. pic 4 shows some of the coil housing body marks from spinning coil on it. and pic 5 is the snap ring after it was all messed up ground up a bit and chewed on by some parts.

 

[zombie1969]

I cant view your pics but getting a new snap ring should be easy enough.If the wires are clean(clean is the key)they can be easily soldered even if its broken off flush with the coil.

 

[Fordum]

I have saved exactly one clutch coil after that happened. A dremel tool, exactoknife, and lots of work got me enough wire to solder to, then a big daub of epoxy locked everything in place.

Failing that, here are some other ideas.
This place might have something you can use, but you are going to have to call or E-mail them.
They show the kits out of stock, but they might have a coil or something laying around.

http://www.storksauto.com/index.php...v8-5-0-5-7-minuite-mount-electric-clutch.html

Or, you could convert it to constant on. I figure once the snow really starts, most of the time it will be plowing anyway.
Depending on how the belt is set up, if you have a quick release mount on the tensioner, you could slip the belt off when a long thaw hit.
All you would need is a 1/2 inch shaft keyed pulley.

A larger shaft straight or tapered clutch could be adapted with a sleeve. I like this idea the best, because it converts your setup to a more standard system.

Next are my more wild ideas.
Step 1.
First, put the clutch back together, drill a hole through the outside flange into the pulley.
Drill the hole in the flange slightly larger than the one in the pulley, thread the one in the pulley and screw a grade 8 bolt in.
Thus locking the shaft and pulley together.
Then, when it thaws, unscrew the bolt and it freewheels.

Step 2, get a monkey, give him a wrench, and train him to sit under the hood watching for a light..............

And, this one, almost as wild, buy the part of a MileMarker winch kit that taps into the powersteering pump and use it in place of your pump. Or just splice into the hoses.

Other than that, I got nothing.

 

[sweetk30]

storkes

i know all about them. got my motor bracket install kit from them years ago for this setup with the older style pump.

ya gona call them on sat or monday and see what thay might have .

here is kind of crapy pic of the coil body backside. i think i can get the wires to fix as there is a decent stickout of the molded plastic body of the 2 wires out the back side. if i can get them out i will prob crimp on a bare non insulated short body but crimp and also solder them together so its 2x the clamping on the wires.

also there is to be a roll pin in the hole you see in the pic just below the coil wires. if i can fix the coil or get a new one then i will make a better pin setup for this than just a roll pin hold in job.

if need be i have a new electric hydro pump setup i can fab a bracket to to make the system work . but i want live hydro NOT electric as i already run a lot of amps for the lights on my truck / airplane landing strip

i will figure somthing out to get me by for now. atleast the ground is to warm yet for the snow to stick if it drops on us.

8ft blade is still all apart with no piviot pins in the thing. got all new on the shelf the otherday from delivery and going to put back together this weekend.

 

[bronc3buster842001]

Kinda looks like the clutch of an a/c compressor. the pancake style found on our trucks.


I have one off an a/c comp. if you want any measurements off it.

 

[sweetk30]

ya its closer to the a/c styles than std live hydro or ai comp stuff the aftermarket uses.

 

[sweetk30]

well the boys up in rockland main hooked me up .

sent them a email when this happened via www.plowsite.com i am on and thay are a supporting vendor/members. the head guy for r/d and tech help got back to me and said he checked and thay had a old stock test unit that was basicly 99.5% new and he said give me your address and its yours for FREE

so here is my new replacement parts for my new 15 year old pump.

these will be assemebled with care and i will modify the index pin and make it a screw with locktight RED and mabye even weld the end of it in also so it cant back out this time.

so some times it pays to ask questions to the factory guys

 

[sweetk30]

got around to modifying and installing the new parts for the clutch pump unit today.

took the stock mounting adaptor ( pic 1 ) and drilled the roll pin hole out all the way threw ( pic 2 ) so i could then tap it to 1/4-20 thread. then i used some red locktight and put the grd 5 bolt in place nice and tight ( pic 3 ) also i cut off the extra flush on the back side ( pic 4 ) and then cut the front off to make it a index pin to go in the hole of the coil body ( pic 5 ) .

this was all just for the adaptor modification to remove the tiny little roll pin that basicly fell out of the first setup and also the replacement parts . ( must have been a bad set of hubs or pins ? )

 

[sweetk30]

then i went and opened up the hole to just a tiny bit bigger than 1/4" dia so the new pin would fit tight with no real play ( pic 1 ) then i put the coil body on the hub and tryed to install the snap ring and it would barly seat up. so i had to do a series of grind down and test fit the coil body to the hub till i got the snap ring to fit in the grove on the hub and seat . ( pic 2 ) is of the back side of the coil were i had to take off some steel to make the thickness a little less to let the ring seat in the hub groove .

now its all back together and if it ever breaks again we will have much more to replace than just this .