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Need a good rust buster

hidesertwheelin

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I need a good rust buster. One that works GREAT! I'm pulling my tranny, and so far my front driveshaft cv joint flane is rusted to my NV241 front output flange, a few fly wheel inspection cover bolts wont budge, even with the air impact, and either will the exhaust flange bolts :doah:. This Suburban spent it's first 13 years in Michigan and is rusty as hell. So what do yuo you guys use to bust your rust.
 
hidesertwheelin said:
I need a good rust buster. One that works GREAT! I'm pulling my tranny, and so far my front driveshaft cv joint flane is rusted to my NV241 front output flange, a few fly wheel inspection cover bolts wont budge, even with the air impact, and either will the exhaust flange bolts :doah:. This Suburban spent it's first 13 years in Michigan and is rusty as hell. So what do yuo you guys use to bust your rust.



Rustbullet is the only way to go, period.
It's so hard, acid-dipping won't get it off. You have to sandblast it off :eek1: !
 
CDA 455 said:
Rustbullet is the only way to go, period.
It's so hard, acid-dipping won't get it off. You have to sandblast it off :eek1: !

Rust bullett is good stuff. But...it is designed to be painted over rust to stop it from spreading (much like por-15)....not break free rusted bolts. He needs a good rust penetrator.

For that....pb blaster is about the best stuff I have found. Soak it real good in pb...let sit for 30 minutes.....soak it real good again....let sit...then soak it and go at it. Apply very liberally.
-Harrison
 
PB is great, I'm a lifelong user.....

But in the last year or so, I've started using Deep Creep from Sea Foam and I think it may actually be better...

I've also heard good things about Kroil, but haven't used it..
 
Deep Creep. Made by the same company as PB Blaster and costs about $2 more a can. Spray it every day for 3 or 4 days. On some really tough shackle bolts I had I also hit the nut with a torch on the third day. Got it real hot and then hit it with Deep Creep until it cooled enough the Deep Creep stayed and not smoked away:eek1: Somebody thought the heat & cooling would help crack the rust. Seemed to help;) But be careful. Don't light your truck on fire:haha::haha:

Edited to add correction:
Ryoken is correct, they are made by different companies. I could have sworn when I compared the two cans side by side they had the same manufacturer in the small print. Oh well.
 
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heating the nuts then quinch them with water or in your case sea foam will break the rust, but try and keep the heat on the nut, i've went so far as using wet rags on a bolt while i heat the nut, metal expands as it is heated if you expand the nut and not the bolt it will usually crack the rust!
also if you use a ball peen on larger nuts, and just lightly tap the nut repeatedly and cause it to start to ring, the vibrations from the ring will also crack the rust alot of times.(navy taught, machinist mate. it works like when they chill shock a line to clean it run steam thru, then cold water. most all the scale inside turns loose) i had nuts that wouldn't budge and ring them for 10-15 min and they come right out.
the 1 thing i see overlooked when some1 asks this question is they never mention the wirebrush beforehand to clean bolts as well as possible b4 the penetrating fluid, i've seen so many people leave their bolts dirty and squirt them and then have a h3ll of a time with them, when if they would have brushed them they would have came right off with just a little penetrating oil.
 
BKinzey said:
Deep Creep. Made by the same company as PB Blaster

Not to picky, but... Like I said, Deep Creep is made by Sea Foam.. We use their full line of products in the marina..

PB Blaster is made by Blaster Chemical products.. Coolest can label EVER... I remember the first day I read that can, some 20 yrs ago..

I'm sold on Deep Creep tho.. When I started using it, I said to myself, "No way it's as good as PB!" But I'm starting to think it's better...
 
I like JB 80 penetrating fluid from justice brothers..I've seen it work on things that PB blaster wouldn't budge.. to me, it's the best of the commercially available stuff.

as an aside, I used to use stuff called zyglo fluid.. it's used to detect cracks in aluminum castings.. you just spray it on, and it runs into any crack it finds.. ..you hold the casting under a blacklight, and boom, there's the crack, previously invisible to the naked eye.. I used to get it for "free" when I worked in a casting foundry, and there wasn't anything it wouldn't bust loose. anyway, the JB 80 works just like that.. it won't run off the fasteners like PB blaster will.

Tom
 
eh..

I've used PB Blaster,was not real impressed with it..WD-40 works as good if you ask me,maybe better IMO..

I've used Marvel Mystery Oil,Liquid Wrench,"Super" Liquid Wrench with Teflon,and Mopar Heat Riser Penatrant and Lube,it works about the best out of all the brands I've tried..has graphite in it too..

Most all of these penetrating oils are mostly Kerosene or Diesel fuel,the labels all say "contains petroleum distallates"..so your better off just filling a pump spray bottle with either of those and flood the stuck part..I have good luck with "Kroil",my dad got it at work,they used it on pipes for gas mains that were badly rusted..

One bottle of stuff I have says it is made from 100% castor oil,and it works great!...came in a squeeze bottle,not aresol..

But HEAT is your best friend when tackling rusty nuts and bolts..nothing works better,and up here I use my torch more than wrenches much of the time...without them you wont be fixing much here..:crazy:
 
Well I ended up using PB Blaster and liberal use of the air impact. Trannys and t-case are out. Thanks for the info everyone.
 
WD40 is useless as a penetrant...
 
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did you know that wd40 was originally intended to be used as an electrical connection cleaner, and people started using it for alsorts of things, ive heard a man swear by it for of all things his arthritis....he sprayed his wrist and hands and rubbed it in, swore it helped???
 
PB Blaster, Air impact, and sawzall + angle grinder got my rusty springs and shocks off when I did my lift. Took some time, but it was well worth it in the end.

Very advisable to soak things overnight, or even for a few days before you plan on working on it. It helps a lot.
 
blazin_blazer said:
did you know that wd40 was originally intended to be used as an electrical connection cleaner, and people started using it for alsorts of things, ive heard a man swear by it for of all things his arthritis....he sprayed his wrist and hands and rubbed it in, swore it helped???


All those uses for wd40 piss me off. Really, its to block out water. WATER DISPLACEMENT formula 40, if i remember correctly. but his arthritis? I think hes just getting poisoned from teh stuff.....:doah:
 

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