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Need a key on 12V source:

Why not--GM started using them in square bodies in 1985--the carbed ones were junk though,(they used an electronic Q-jet )--every one I saw either rapped or blew up at low miles,and had a V8 swapped in its place..

I have seen a few 229 V6's and 200 V6's from 78-82 Malibu's or Impala's swapped into a few square bodies..backyard mechanics here will use anything that bolts in sometimes...doubt they were much good for anything but daily driving though,and probably didn't live that long hauling a 2-3 ton full sized truck around..

One kid I know somehow put a 2.8 Camaro V6 into his '80 Chevy C-10,and the thing was a terror,it could do awesome burnouts..don't know how long it lasted though...
 
Joe In Montana said:
Using the ISS circuit - really? Is it still powered up as an ISS? And do you think it's ON all the time?

One more time (because I'm old and don't remember and I'm too tired to scroll back and read if it's there in the OP or not) what year/make/model vehicle is this?

Any system with an ISS is somewhere (help me here, why not?) in the late '60s/mid '70s or so - maybe up to '85 - right?

Find out if the ISS is still powered under the emission control system before you start wiring it up as a KOEO power supply. .

This simple project is getting 'way out of control. Gaa-ack!

If there's ANY computer left to operate this system - don't go poking wires with a test light to find 12.0 VDC or you might find 5.0 VDC and smoke something computer-wise with your non-Hi-Z test light. .
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It's an 83 1/2 ton chevy truck.

On second thought i'm not absolutely sure if my ISS is activated all the time or only when the A/C is on, so i've decided just to jumper the plug that normally goes over the plug near the oil filter.
 
snowdriver said:
Off topic,you put a 4.3 in a square??
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Yes, i really like this engine and i felt that based on my use of the truck----i use it for commuting during the week and on weekends i use it for "weekend hauling." That is, large, but not necessarily heavy stuff----home depot, furniture, 4x8 plywood sheets etc. So based on those needs i didn't feel like i needed an 8 and i also didn't like getting only 16 mpg average. Also, the 4.3 allows me to step inside the engine compartment---makes maintenance much easier. Will provide pic asap.

This swap is not really a 100% bolt-in swap (if into an earlier than 85 chassis). It is simpler than most swaps, but there are a few hitches which i may describe in detail in another thread.

i can say with authority that the 4.3 has no problems keeping the truck moving at 65mph or higher and can do it as well as the 350 and 305 that i had in the truck previously.
 
diesel4me said:
Why not--GM started using them in square bodies in 1985--the carbed ones were junk though,(they used an electronic Q-jet )--every one I saw either rapped or blew up at low miles,and had a V8 swapped in its place..

I have seen a few 229 V6's and 200 V6's from 78-82 Malibu's or Impala's swapped into a few square bodies..backyard mechanics here will use anything that bolts in sometimes...doubt they were much good for anything but daily driving though,and probably didn't live that long hauling a 2-3 ton full sized truck around..

One kid I know somehow put a 2.8 Camaro V6 into his '80 Chevy C-10,and the thing was a terror,it could do awesome burnouts..don't know how long it lasted though...
Click to expand...

i actually originally wanted to swap in a 229 or even a 200, but Jasper lately has been getting too many bad reviews----i figure if you are getting THAT many bad reviews, something must be up. And i couldn't find any other source for 229's and 200 v-6's. Yes, i could have gotten one out of a salvage yard, but i don't have time or the inclination to rebuild an engine right now. So i went with a chevrolet performance 4.3 crate. i'm very happy with it.

As far as the 60 degree v-6's i was and am very open to it, but shied away from it due to worries such as, will it bolt up to a th-350 trans without/with an adapter? Where to get a distributor? And general unfamiliarity with the engine. i felt i didn't have time to do all that research. Whereas the 4.3 is a small block minus 2 cylinders.
 
Basically the 200 and 229's are also shortened V8's--the 2.8 Camaro engine I saw in that kids C-10 I didn't get a real close look at,but I think he used the RWD tranny from the Camaro also,and it was an 80's car,so it probably still had a distributor..

I could be wrong but I think the idle stop solenoid was energized all the time with the key in the "run" position--most GM cars with A/C that needed an idle speed boost had another solenoid I think to raise the idle speed when the A/C compressor kicked on..
 
Some early ISSs were to prevent "dieseling" on the early emission controlled vehicles that ran so lean/hot you could fry bacon on the hood. They needed something to drop the carb butterflys to absolutely closed to help the engine die when you turned off the ignition. Some of these early attempts had a 10 second timer to turn ON the AC compressor to help drag the engine to a halt.

I still believe that the ISS, if you actually have that circuit in place, and to use it to fire a relay, might be a decent idea though.

I also believe that this "problem" is much to do about little. Just do it whatever way several of us have proffered and get on to the next project.
 
Ok, so i ended up jumpering the 2 prong plug that normally goes over the oil pressure sensor near the oil filter and everything works great.

However, does anyone know where i can get the plastic plug thing that plugs into the choke coil. The actual metal clip that runs off the power wire into the choke coil is still intact and connected to the choke coil but the plastic plug has either broken and fallen off or just fallen off. i think it will be more secure with the plug.
 
If you spend a fair bit of time on Mouser.com you might find it. Not sure if accurate or not, I don't trust the chain parts store catalogs always, but they show a couple of different style connectors.

For the price, you could just get this and de/re-pin your connector: http://www.autozone.com/electrical-...dorman-choke-thermostat-connector/438885_0_0/ No splicing needed, since your terminal is still intact.

Then they list this one: http://www.autozone.com/electrical-...hoke-thermostat-connector/438879_176386_4155/

These guys sell just the connector, but again, with that price, and assuming shipping, it's going to be cheaper to buy it straight from autozone: http://rebelwire.com/rebel-wire-products.php?cat=Connectors

Here's one on ebay, again, no idea if the right connecto: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PARTS-MASTE...ash=item43d6be690e:g:J0AAAOSwm8VUxo6J&vxp=mtr

And another: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Choke-Repai...m41b9259e60:m:mgNtImdxYEDnvdgNBGVLddg&vxp=mtr
 
vandelay industries said:
Ok, so i ended up jumpering the 2 prong plug that normally goes over the oil pressure sensor near the oil filter and everything works great.

However, does anyone know where i can get the plastic plug thing that plugs into the choke coil. The actual metal clip that runs off the power wire into the choke coil is still intact and connected to the choke coil but the plastic plug has either broken and fallen off or just fallen off. i think it will be more secure with the plug.
Click to expand...

napa #ECH CTC100
 
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