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Need a lift

87GMCJimmy

1/2 ton status
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Nov 21, 2001
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Location
Phoenix, AZ
I have a 1987 GMC jimmy that is way to close to the ground!!! It currently has stock suspension and 32 in tires. Looking for a 4 inch lift to run a 33-35 inch tire. My goal is to get all of the parts a once and do a quality suspension system. I already have longer shocks but need everything else. From looking at ORD website I came up with the following list of parts.

Gm 4" EZ ride kit 215.00
Stearing Arm 60.00
Greasable HD front Shackles 85.00
4" Rear Shackle flip 185.00
Greasable Rear Bushings 60.00
Bump Stops (Pair) [email protected]

Ok, now everrybody let know what I'm missing and the good/bad points about this setup.

Thanks
Mike
 
If you want to keep your sway-bar you will also need the sway-bar disconects.

'71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/triaged>See it Here </a>
 
Right off I see you will also need longer brake lines and a regear if you want to be able to pass old ladies in electric wheelchairs.

I thought I was wrong once,
but I was mistaken
 
Some of your prices are a little off, only because I've missed a couple of updates on the site. Not more than $5.00 on a couple of parts.
You may want a greasable main eye kit, $22.00, does the front eye of the front springs. Brakelines would be a good one too, braided is $95.00 from us.
beyond that, you're in good shape. We had a local guy do the same lift not too long ago and is really happy with what he's got now. his exact words were, "the change in off road ride is amazing" On road he thought it a little "more lively" than stock but not objectionable at all.
Gearing is one subject to look into, that's one that you'll need a good insight into the overall plan for. There's a lot of parts that have to work together for the gears to be right.

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
SW-ORD
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
 
Just back form turkey day!! This setup sounds like what I want. Good reliable off-roading and your still able to drive is down the road with out scaring the xxxx out of you every now and then. I probably will be giving you a call soon. I also read most of the other messages on this forum about lifts and such. It sounds like I should also put the steering box reinforcing bracket on before I need the repair kit.

As far as gears and axles, that will have to be down the road someday. Just not enough money right now. I do have 3.73 gears which will not be too bad for now.

After I install the lift how do I check out the drive shaft angles and what tools might I need to do it? Will the angles be close to correct after this lift?
 
We could write a book on driveline angles, basically with your gearing you should be able to make it work without using a CV shaft in the rear, but that's a VERY popular upgrade for a K5 that runs on the road. A CV makes it really easy to set up the angles, and takes all the vibration out of the system. We can go over it a little more when you call.

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
SW-ORD
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
 
I have all the things listed above, as well as swaybar disconnect/connection kit and steering box brace! If you dont have a steering box brace I highly reccomend them and Stephen even sells those
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Great quality and great service from ORD !

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1977 K5 GETTIN IT AWN
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BUILT NOT BOUGHT
 
I've got pretty much the exact setup you listed. I've got an 87K5, did 4" front TC ez-rides, shackle flip, greasable everything, HD front shackles, swaybar disconnects, 1" add a leaf for the rear as it was sagging, longer brake lines and TC shocks ( they're okay, but not top of the line....). I ended up with quite a bit of vibration in the rear driveshaft, so I'm putting a custom CV shaft from Tom Woods as soon as it gets here. And yes I can say I am extremely satisfied with the perfomance and quality of it all, especially ORD's stuff. Stephen is great to work with and he'll steer you in the right direction. Oh, and i did put on a steering box brace too. It took about 3-4 days for me to install all this stuff, but it was well worth it. Why did I wait so long?

Scott
 
Thanks! I just ordered everything from Stephen! Just waiting for it to magically appear in the driveway. I'll probably have many more question after it's installed. I too have some shocks that will work but as with everthing else someday I would like to up grade them.

How much does it cost to have the CV drive shaft built? Once installed you just aim the pinon at the rear of the T-case, right, and no more vibrations?? I currently have a np208 once the CV drive shaft is installed how portable is it to another t-case?
 
Is there anything you have to replace in the way of joints with a CV shaft? I know that every now and then you have to replace u-joints in a regular driveshaft, but in a CV shaft do you have to replace any kinds of joints?
 
OK, the CV shaft for the 208 is a pretty specific bugger but I think if you dealt with the same shop for all of your shafts the shop would take yours as a core toward a new one in a different configuration.

Servicing the CV is just like a front, there's the two joints and the ball joint that can also wear. There are several different types of CV joints that use different parts and are different to build, but that's the basic stuff, joints and the pivot ball.

and yes, with a CV shaft you bolt it in and point the pinion at it and all should be well.

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
SW-ORD
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
 
if youre interested i might still have some 4" lift springs for your blazer &amp; maybe even with brakelines. I'll check the springs tomorrow when i get some daylight.

<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by sinchphoto on 12/06/01 07:51 PM.</FONT></P>
 
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