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Need a quick torque spec thing...

colbystephens

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I'm changing the ball joints on my truck right now. I can't remember what the process is for tightening the axle nuts. I'm not sure if they're called axle nuts. You know, there's 2 of them and they require a 4 prong socket. They're separated by a lock washer.

Anyway, what's the torque spec for those, and what's the process for tightening them? I think I need to preload the bearings with the first one. Can't remember, can't find it in my book.

Thanks!!
:bow:
 
I'll look around for my book, but I believe you tighten the inside one to the 50 ft/lbs then back it off and re-tighten until it starts to keep the spindle from turning... Then back it off a 1/4 turn...

I'll take a look in a few...



I was close...

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Setting Bearing Pre-Load:[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Using the hub socket and a torque wrench (set at 50ft/lbs) Turn the rotor consistently and evenly while you slowly tighten the hub nut until you reach the required torque. It is important to spin the rotor while applying torque. After torque has been reached, back the nut OFF 1/4 turn.[/FONT]
 
cool! Thanks. I knew it was along those lines too. What's the deal with that, though? That's the strangest tightening sequence I've seen. No other place have I seen it appropriate that you'd torque something down and then loosen it and leave it.
 
hmmm. those specs are quite different from what the Moog instructions stated.
 
cool! Thanks. I knew it was along those lines too. What's the deal with that, though? That's the strangest tightening sequence I've seen. No other place have I seen it appropriate that you'd torque something down and then loosen it and leave it.


It's done the same way on a d60...

Not sure why it done this way, but if you don't do it like that the wheel bearings will go out fast...:doah:
 
Yeah, I can understand how they could get overly tight and burn up, but it's strange that they don't have you re-tighten it to another lesser torque spec after the fact. It creeps me out. :D Hasn't failed yet, I suppose.
 
Yeah, I can understand how they could get overly tight and burn up, but it's strange that they don't have you re-tighten it to another lesser torque spec after the fact. It creeps me out. :D Hasn't failed yet, I suppose.
Actually, you are tightening it to a known torque, you just are doing it backwards, which in this case is best.
When you put in new bearings and races, you seat them against the stops. ( I know, they both don't have stops, but its late)
However, its almost impossible to get them seated totally and evenly.
So, you assemble every thing and start to torque the nut.
As you approach 50 Ft-lbs, the parts take up the last of the slack and align themselves.
Tests have shown that by the time you reach 50, unless something major is wrong, you are steel on steel.
At this point, given the hardness of everything involved, going to 100 would not involve more than a part of a degree of turn.

If you were to graph the torque vs rotation of the nut, it would be a fairly straight line running at about a 45 degree angle, until all the slack was out of the parts.
Then the torque would pretty much go straight up with almost no rotation at all.

At this point, if you back off to slack and re-torque, some of the parts might flex and not be seated anymore. So the final torque would not be accurate.

Since they know the angle of the bearings, and the number of threads per inch of the nut, they can predict the final torque value from the amount of rotation of the nut.

A lot of the bigger, higher load bearings are done this way, because the bigger they are the more flex they have, and the higher the load the less forgiving they are.

I have done them both ways according to the manuals. Over the years, I have found more of the ones I loosened and re torqued to come up too loose after a few miles than the ones I torqued and backed off a certain amount.

NOTE: I got that from an old SAE book I read years ago. It even had the torque vs rotation graph in it.
Given that I read it bout the time your K5s were just rolling off the assembly line, I have no idea where to look that up now.

J.
 
The proper procedure for wheel bearing adjustment is as follows....

A) Torque inner adjusting nut to 50 ft/lbs while rotating the hub/rotor assembly

B) Back off adjusting nut until it is loose

C) While rotating the hub/rotor assembly tighten the adjusting nut to 35 ft/lbs (for automatic locking hubs) or 50 ft/lbs (for manual locking hubs)

D) Back off adjusting nut 1/4 to 3/8 turn (for automatic locking hubs) or 1/6 to 1/4 turn (for manual locking hubs)

E) Now install locking ring (making sure the pin in the adjusting nut enters one of the holes in the locking ring)

F) Install the outer lock nut and torque to a minimum of 160 ft/lbs

This is straight from a Chiltons repair manual.
 
Thanks for all the info guys! Interesting stuff there. Also, 4x4High, thanks for adding hte torque spec of the outer nut. I only torqued it to 50 lbs, so I'll adjust that in the morning.
 

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