need a Starter Heat Shield

[Ddragggon]

I realize this is probably posted beyond all get out, but since the forum search comes up with no hits that are relevant, here goes:

my 73 `4 door k5' has problems with starter heatsoak, ( or so I believe thats the problem.... ) it acts like it has a dead battery, except that jumping only helps marginaly, and the battery can crank over my other suburban just fine. basicaly, the starter either won't engage, or if it does, its very slow to crank.

I know they sell heat shields almost everywhere, but now that I actually need one, I find them not. a little help please? would getting some header wrap be any easier? recomendations on that? good idea/bad idea? etc... its no fun to only bea ble to drive my bug ugly `burb around the block once before the starter stops working, and I'm starting to get fed up with it.

-Rich

ph34r m3!

1337 TruXoR

 

[beater74]

try www.summitracing.com

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I know this may sound stupid, and you may have already checked this, but it happened to me on two separate Chevy's. Have you checked to make sure that all the wiring on the starter is tight? I had a old Caprice and my wife's newer Cavilier both exhibited the exact same thing you are describing. I crawled underneath to find that the wiring to the starter was loose both times. Sometimes the most obvious things are overlooked.

God has a hard on for Marines, because we keep Heaven chock full of fresh souls!

 

[beater74]

one more thing if it happens after only driving short distance there might b something wrong with the starter. I run dyno max header that completely cover my starter and can drive it for an hour and it'll start right back up .

 

[Grim-Reaper]

Heck I bought a Sheil that just covered the Solonoid for $5 at pep girls a few years ago. Did the trick and never had a problem again.

It's not my damn planet monkey boy!
<a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s>communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s</a>
75 Jimmy, Dollar
79 Chevy Blazer, Her's
70 Chevy Burb
Grim-Reaper

 

[kpanza]

You can avoid this problem all together by going to a Ford style remote solenoid. I used to have the old heat soak problem also, but I got a kit from MAD Enterprises that lets you use a Ford remote solenoid mounted in the engine compartment. I have never had a hot start problem since!! I can also "bump" over the engine by touching both terminals of the solenoid together (or bypass the ignition switch if that ever fails!) Heat shields are a start, but this is the real fix.

 

[chevyfumes]

You can get a remote solinoid from Summit for about 25.00

<font color=blue> I'd rather have a bottle in front of me, than a frontal lobotomy!

 

[Ddragggon]

I'll have to check the wireing... it is a brand new starter, and I'd like to believe that the workmanship of it is slightly superior to how it seems to be performing. generaly, I can drive it around, say to the store, and have no problems starting it... if I drive it say 10 miles tho, then the starter stops working... hopefully just loose wires, coupled with a slight case of heat soak, or something of that nature. perhaps the really cool looking oversized battery cables are really crap, or are internaly coroded beyond conductive use, and need a good replacement or something... I suppose this could all explain why I ended up with a dead battery, if I chalk it up to loose wire on the starter... little power gets from the battery to the starter, little power gets from the alternator/charging circuit to the battery, hmm, it all makes sense now! the question now is, is this the right sense to be made at the situation.... only 1 way to know, and that involves being at home, and looking.... blasted work getting in the way of my fun.... although I suppose it is the way I fund my addiction of big trucks, so nessicary evil it shall remain...

-Rich

ph34r m3!

1337 TruXoR

 

[chevyfumes]

damnit Kpanza, you beat me to it, I really need to learn to type this pecking is for the birds

<font color=blue> I'd rather have a bottle in front of me, than a frontal lobotomy!

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I didn't know your battery was draining also. 100 bucks says it is loose wiring!

God has a hard on for Marines, because we keep Heaven chock full of fresh souls!

 

[Burt4x4]

i'm with kpanza on this one! I too used a Ferd remote silly.
I just got mine from Napa(15bucks) then you need to move the switch wire to the new silly and place a jumper inbetween the batt term and + on the chevy silly. Place the Ferd one on hte fender well and rote the switch and Batt cable to that and the problem will never re-apper!!



72K5

Led Zeppelin

Rock ON!

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/baja/5099>www.geocities.com/baja/5099</a>

 

[CaptCrunch]

Yup if you have a draining battery then check the wiring. A friend's car came up w/ a simalar problem out of the blue and I went and found a wire shorting out on the header.

-Mikey
1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/captcrunch</a>

 

[dyeager535]

As a note, one of the 4wd mags did a test of header heat soak cures. The best one they found (with all other related stuff working correctly wiring, battery,starter, etc) was the mini starters. Again, that was on one application, but that was the only thing that fixed the problem. Troubleshoot the easy/cheap stuff first though.

Dorian
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen

 

[tRustyK5]

Headers and a remote solenoid here too. I do still need to replace my ground cable which is looking pretty corroded. When I did the remote swap a year ago it really helped though.

Rene

<font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>