CK5
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Need advice on converteing a K5 rear glass to electric

Their website sucks now, doesn't it? When they had the PDF of the catalog, at least I could find stuff. Do you have a link to the page that has the tailgate motor upgrade? I'm definitely interested in seeing your results from it.

I can say I enjoyed being able to flip from page to page as if I had the catalog in front of me.

This is the link to the window wiring upgrade. They do not make one specificly for the tailgate but it is the same concept. Yes I could easily make this up myself but it is convenient, fairly inexpensive, and now I have spare relays.
https://www.lmctruck.com/1973-91-chevy-gmc/door-parts/cc-csb-heavy-duty-power-window-harness
 
I thought it was an actual upgraded motor. My mistake.

I'm not an electrician, but I don't understand how relays help in this case. Relays are often used to shorten the run of the wires carrying the load. I don't see the switch as offering anything other than momentary resistance. Once contact is made, it's made. I don't see how this appreciably shortens the run of the load carrying wires, although it would certainly reduce wear and tear on the switch itself. If the wiring itself is compromised, obviously the kit would help that as well.

A gear reduction motor with more torque is what I'd like to see, although the motor in the videos in this thread certainly operates better than mine does. It's been awhile, but the replacement motor I have in now was just as crummy in operation as the one it replaced. I know the aftermarket (the parts store cheapies, not high end aftermarket) is generally about cutting corners where they can, so that isn't saying a whole lot.
 
Its all about resistance and amperage. The switches dont handle the load well. They are more suited to activate the relays which are utilizing a thicker gauge wire to carry the amperage requirement for the length. Same reason why you dont run power through your ignition switch to turn the starter.
 
If the switch couldn't handle it, it would melt and/or burn, no? IIRC there is a breaker on the fuse panel that determines if the load is too much or not.
 
In some cases that happens. I have had these connectors crumble in my hand due to repeated exposure to high heat. Remember these things were built for cost effectiveness at the expense of quality. When motors get old and mechanical components wear cause drag putting more stress on the system. That is why you see windows that take thirty seconds to roll up. The reason these upgrade kits work because you are eliminating the resistance from inadequate wire quality and size. You have to lower resistance to pass more current.
 
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