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Need advice on engine direction, which way to go?

How about the cruise control? Will I lose that with an LS swap?

Yes you will maintain cruise control if you use the 4l60e. You can only run a 700r4 if you have a DBC throttle body on your 5.3. it was only a couple year option, I think 99-02 or something like that. Unfortunately you also get a return style fuel rail and egr stuff along the the DBC. You can convert a DBW to DBC, but it's more work than you think.
 
My vote is LS swap!
You should be able to re-use a lot of your stuff like driveshafts, transmission mounts, radiator, and gas tank. Just would need to get a np241 with electric vss or get something aftermarket.
I'm running a 5.3 with the 4l60e that came with it. Its drive by cable, I used the cable that came from the donor truck and hooked it to the k5 pedal. No cruise control, but it wasn't a priority for me since I don't use it in any other vehicle. In my opinion it is a great swap, pretty easy to do and is a smooth ride.
I do wish it had a little more torque down low but that is more of a goosing it standpoint and not a drive-ability problem. But I'm not really towing anything with it.
There is so much information all over the internet so pretty much anyone can do it. I did my own stand alone wiring from the guides at lt1swap.com also had my reprogramming done through them.
I'm using Autometer gauges so I cant help adapting to stock ones.
For radiator hoses I used ones that go on the Chevy Avalanche .

1974 k5, 4.10, 315/75r16, 2003 5.3/4l60e from a Chevy Avalanche, NP241 from a 1991 k5 with electric vss, 1991 TBI tank/ sending unit with pump from a late 90s pickup (i think ep381 if I remember right), return style fuel system, TNA LS engine mounts and crossmember, 1302ls1 schoenfeld headers, and tahoe cold air intake.
 
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My 5.3 is completely stock except for the minor tune in the ecm. I'm running 35's with 4.10 gearing. However, in my case with the camper I'm looking for more power. Wind resistance and weight are killing my fun. If I keep it wound up it's fine, but I can find it lacking on long mountain grades on the highway.
4.88s are the answer.
 
Yes you will maintain cruise control if you use the 4l60e. You can only run a 700r4 if you have a DBC throttle body on your 5.3. it was only a couple year option, I think 99-02 or something like that. Unfortunately you also get a return style fuel rail and egr stuff along the the DBC. You can convert a DBW to DBC, but it's more work than you think.
Correct on the years. Not all LM7 5.3's had egr though. Maybe in California they did, but it did not come on the federal emissions package. I know mine don't have it. As far as the fuel lines go, the return style isn't excessively hard to deal with. But it's not to say you can't run a returnless fuel rail with a cable throttle. It's just a matter of telling who ever tunes what throttle you got.
 
Correct on the years. Not all LM7 5.3's had egr though. Maybe in California they did, but it did not come on the federal emissions package. I know mine don't have it. As far as the fuel lines go, the return style isn't excessively hard to deal with. But it's not to say you can't run a returnless fuel rail with a cable throttle. It's just a matter of telling who ever tunes what throttle you got.
I think they did away with EGR in 03 or something like that. And i guess i just prefer the return-less style rail for ease of plumbing.
 
Correct on the years. Not all LM7 5.3's had egr though. Maybe in California they did, but it did not come on the federal emissions package. I know mine don't have it. As far as the fuel lines go, the return style isn't excessively hard to deal with. But it's not to say you can't run a returnless fuel rail with a cable throttle. It's just a matter of telling who ever tunes what throttle you got.

Correct. Holley makes a bracket for DBC on DBW intakes, then just need the cable and DBC throttle body.
 
I think they did away with EGR in 03 or something like that. And i guess i just prefer the return-less style rail for ease of plumbing.
Returnless is easier to plumb for sure. However, if it has an existing return line like a tbi truck would (don't remember what the op has) the setup is almost as simple. You tie into the stock return line off of the ls fuel rail.

In my case I used a set of lines from a workhorse motorhome chassis. They tied in to the stock tbi fuel lines with one minor modification on the return side. Not sure if we can get those lines anymore though so it may not be the option it once was.
 
A guy in our club had a '93 pickup with the 350TBI engine and put in a cam, aftermarket fuel injection, and a few other odds and ends that helped power but was constantly having to mess with it you run right. Finally put in a completely stock 150,000 mile 285 HP 5.3L and it runs much, much stronger, is very smooth, and hasn't had to mess with it since. I think we wound up with only having $300-$400 total in the sway. He bought a wrecked Silverado and pulled the engine then sold it back for scrap, and then sold the running 350 TBI engine for some money.
 

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