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Need advice or ideas about some issues with my 89 Burb (kinda long)

1leg

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Sorry this is kind of long. :confused:

Well I have a few miles on the Suburban sense buying it a month or so ago. I have a few issues that are starting show. I’m not getting any check engine light or code issues. (check engine light works)

The big one is blue/white smoke, (smells like oil too) out the tail pipe after starting the engine. It only happens after a medium to long drive and after it has sat for awhile like 1 hour or more. Quick trip to the store I get nothing. If I shut the engine off after a long drive then restart 1 minute later I get no smoke.

I did not notice this right after purchasing the truck. I looked hard for smoke and didn’t see any until the last couple of weeks.
I saw no fouled plugs when replacing. They looked really good in fact.
I have replaced all plugs, wires, cap and rotor, TBI/Manifold gasket (not because of smoke), Oil (10w40).
I didn’t notice smoke after doing the above. (Might not have been looking to hard)
Truck has a very slight rough idle, has sense buying it. I thought it was the TBI gasket. After replacing gasket it got better but didn’t go away. Now I think it might be the throttle shaft leaking.

My thoughts:
Could be bad valve guides. But why now, should have seen it when I bought it. Why no fouled plugs? I will check the new plugs this weekend to see if they are fouled now.
Could it be a bad plug wire or plug? Doesn’t explain blue smoke.
It has a new PCV, I didn’t replace. Could it have the wrong or cheap PCV that would cause this?
I’m thinking about running 20w50 or maybe some kind of oil additive. What Additive would you recommend?
Can you guys think of anything else?

Next issue is the Front brakes grab really hard in morning. This is at really slow speed, like when pulling out of the drive way. The first time I noticed it was on a really cold morning. This goes away rather quickly, before I get to the end of the street. Sometimes after a long drive I can smell the brakes a little when getting out of the truck, not bad, just barely. I did not replace the Calipers when I did the front end work, only the pads (raybestos) and rotors. I didn’t touch the rear brakes. I noticed the smell right away after the brake job and now after 400+ miles.
My Thoughts:
I think It could be a sticky front caliper. I’m thinking I will just put new Caliper on it now.
Any other Idea?

Low end power (torque) seems to be lower than I expect. it hasn’t change sense I bought. I would expect that 4:10 gears and 350 should spin wore out 235/85-16s in the rain fairly easy, Right!. Not that I’m out doing burning outs just testing a new trucks limits. It seems to have good power on the highway at speed. No problem passing. Gas mileage seems normal for a truck this size.
My Thoughts:
I suspect the Catalytic converter is bad (106000+ miles). Truck has a new (cheap looking) stock type muffler. I didn’t install it. I don’t need to smog until June at least, maybe a year longer. I’m thinking about removing the CC all together and just run a straight pipe in its place. Just to see if power increases. I would replace before I smog it.
Will it throw a code if I do this?
Any other Ideas?

I have no plans to upgrade this engine to increase power. I was hoping it would last long enough to build a 383. (yes I have rebuilt engine before) If I can’t fix the smoke or power problem I will consider a new replacement engine. I would go with a new GM replacement 350 create engine (the least expensive) and use my old engine for building the 383. I would then sell or keep the new 350 as a spare after installing the 383. Has anyone installed a stock replacement engine from GM?
What is your impression of the replacement engine? I’m not looking for a race engine. Stock power is ok for now. Plus it must pass smog. :rolleyes:

Thanks Guys
 
Didn't read the entire post, but I will. Right now to many beers for that.

Off hand, the smoke after sitting for a while and only at start up sounds like vavle guide seals. If it was constant smoke that would be more rings.
 
Didn't read the entire post, but I will. Right now to many beers for that.

Thanks

I thought it was a little to long, didn't even think about the BEER factor, :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Plus i think I might have placed it in the wrong Forum,
Mod feel free to move it, just let me know where to look!!
 
guides
sticky caliper
tons of crate motors out there... be aware EFI and a 383 will require some chip work...
 
When I got my blazer i did the following:

1. rebuild the TBI. (a gasket set can be had from Autozone).
2. plugs wires, distributor cap and button.
3. check engine codes.
4. have the MAP, IAC and distributor control module tested (Autozone).
5. remove and clean the intake manifold and EGR value, and replace gaskets.
6. changed the O2 sensor (because of code).
7. changed the thermostat.

after that she ran smooth and cool:D
 
I would agree with the sticky caliper and valve guides. A clogged cat will kill horsepower and gas mileage. My wife had a roadmaster wagon with clogged cat that would not spin a tire then car got tottaled by insurance so I was out trashing on it with friends, went a thousand rpms over red line one time and cleared the cat out. After that it would spin about 10 feet in the dry. My 88 suburban would spin both 285-75-16 toyo at's in the rain with good running 350 (supposedly rebuilt a few years and two owners ago) and 410s. Now with 35 toyo mt's on h2 wheels not so much.
 
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