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Need Advice

tx k5blazer

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Haven't been on the forum for a long time or worked/driven the k5 for awhile, so I need some advice. I've come across a set of 3/4 ton axles (D44 and 14bff ?) on CL. I haven't used my 84 k5 for any real wheeling, so it still has the original 10's. At some point in the near future it'll be used as a hunting truck and would likely see some abuse in the area around the llano uplift or Edwards plateau (Tx hill country).

It'll likely still see some asphalt now and again so it don't think I'll go above 35's. Currently has a 4" lift and 33's.

Would it be worth it to do an axle swap?
 
I've come across a set of 3/4 ton axles (D44 and 14bff ?) on CL
I may be wrong(usually the case) but I thought the 3/4 tons used a 14bsf
Does your 84 have 28sp or 30sp axles?
If you have 30sp in the front the 44 will not add much if any strength to the front. Though you might be able to do crossover with the 44 if it has the flat top knuckle.
If you really intend to abuse it put a 60 up front and the 14b in the rear.
As has been said MANY times here the 14bsf will bolt right in as the 14bff will require moving the spring perches. Either one will require the combination universal iirc.
 
if your only going with 35s then go pick them up and toss them in. a 14sf will be fine for what you wanna do
 
The older 3/4 tons almost always got the 14FF. The SF was something seen more in the 80's, and from what I've seen most often in 3/4 ton Suburbans for some reason. I can only assume it's a GVW thing...

Either way it's a nice upgrade if you're going to abuse the truck a little. 10's are pretty OK, especially up front (with 35's max) but they're not going to be anywhere near as durable as a 14 bolt of either flavor. A full floater also has the peace of mind regarding not losing a tire/brake/axle remains when things break.

The down side is having to get 8 lug rims and some of the other little things needed. It's not quite a 100% bolt in deal.

Rene
 
I may be wrong(usually the case) but I thought the 3/4 tons used a 14bsf
Does your 84 have 28sp or 30sp axles?
If you have 30sp in the front the 44 will not add much if any strength to the front. Though you might be able to do crossover with the 44 if it has the flat top knuckle.
If you really intend to abuse it put a 60 up front and the 14b in the rear.
As has been said MANY times here the 14bsf will bolt right in as the 14bff will require moving the spring perches. Either one will require the combination universal iirc.

wow, first post from a 2002 member

14bff is an anchor, very strong, but limited ground clearance
 
wow, first post from a 2002 member

14bff is an anchor, very strong, but limited ground clearance

Limited in ground clearance? Compared to what?

Cut the lip off the bottom and it's close to everything else, it may hang down as much as 1" below a 10 bolt at that point. I'd rather drag my diff a little on 39"+ tires knowing I'll never break it than *not get hung up* on my ten bolt with 37's and break it.

I ran all kinds of hard stuff in my truck on 37's with a D60 front and FF 14 bolt rear, I never felt diff clearance was a huge issue (all in the rocks). I broke a stock D60 outer/lockout (same side) on Carnage in Buena Vista, CO a ways back and the truck felt crippled. I would've traded 2" of diff clearance to have the front right shaft driving again (locked front and rear, so 3 wheel drive with that broken shaft).

We got it out no problem but it was a pain, being a pretty hardcore trail. IMO reliability has a lot to say over clearance.
 
wow, first post from a 2002 member
See something new every day.

They appear to be out of a 70's era 3/4 truck. From the posted pics, the 14b hubs look to extend beyond the wheel studs (told the 14sf is "flush" with the studs). Both are 8 lug.
 
It'll likely still see some asphalt now and again so it don't think I'll go above 35's. Currently has a 4" lift and 33's.

Would it be worth it to do an axle swap?

Limited in ground clearance? Compared to what?

Cut the lip off the bottom and it's close to everything else, it may hang down as much as 1" below a 10 bolt at that point. I'd rather drag my diff a little on 39"+ tires knowing I'll never break it than *not get hung up* on my ten bolt with 37's and break it.

I ran all kinds of hard stuff in my truck on 37's with a D60 front and FF 14 bolt rear, I never felt diff clearance was a huge issue (all in the rocks). I broke a stock D60 outer/lockout (same side) on Carnage in Buena Vista, CO a ways back and the truck felt crippled. I would've traded 2" of diff clearance to have the front right shaft driving again (locked front and rear, so 3 wheel drive with that broken shaft).

Compared to the stock 10 bolt.

OP said that he is running 33's and maybe 35's in the future. He was wondering if swapping in 3/4 ton running gear was worth it. So from there, I would say that the 14 bolt is an anchor, but very strong. No upgrade in strength for the front.

Axles will bolt right in. Need new wheels, maybe some driveshaft modification, probably rebuild brakes at the same time, is the gearing the same or better. All decisions of the OP.
 
I'm in DFW as well and hunt quite a bit around Texas. I'd say stick with the 10 bolts unless the 3/4 tons have a better gear ratio or better traction aid in them. There's no place I've hunted that my stock 72 with 32's wouldn't get me.

The main reason to upgrade your axles for what you're doing would be the gear ratio. Moving from 3.08 to 4.10 on my 76 helped a bunch when I went to 37's. What has your truck got under it now?
 
Off hand I don't recall what's in it. The truck's currently ~190 miles to the south, sitting due to a blown 700r4 (project for later date). I'll eventually drag it up here once I'm done with my current project.

The 3/4 tons have 4.10's, according to listing.
 
I'd take care of the tranny first and check the gear ratio in your 10 bolts. You're probably fine. Worst case scenario you bust an axle, then upgrade.
 
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