Need Advice

[Hossbaby50]

On how to get my tranny rebuilt again. My 700R-4 is dead and I need to get it rebuilt. I have between $500-800 (maybe a little more)(I am R&Ring). 700R-4's have been lasting me 15-20K miles so I need to upgrade some parts. What should I get done. I don't have the $ for a Raptor but would like to get some HD parts to make my tranny's last longer. My last rebuild did have a Stage 1 shift kit, and the last 2 rebuilds have both had the factory cooler and a large aftermarket cooler run in series. The last tranny had a tranny temp gauge also. (tranny never got to hot).

So what parts should I pay to have put in beside the stock stuff with all the upgrades? (last tranny had all current upgrades). I was thinking the corvette servos, and the extra discs in the 3-4 pack. Tranny's keep loosing 2nd gear, is there anything I can have done to that? All help will be appreciated. Thank you

Harley

 

[rockink5]

Have spoken to several tranny shops about this same problem. They all have about the same answer, Go to G.M and by there reman. one 3 year 36,000 warranty. They say there cheaper than having one built and supposadly (sp?) fixed all the problems. They also come with the converter.I think thats what I'll do when mine finally goes kapoot AGAIN.

 

[Thunder]

In my opinion.
700r4.com
860.00
You should also get a new torque convertor.
If your 700r4 rebuilds are only lasting a short time you should ditch that tranny. It may have internal defects or pump problems. The pump/ case may be warped, ect

 

[Hossbaby50]

Thanks for the website. I am going to see if i can get something like there stage 2 tranny built around here for roughly the same price.

Does anyone have an suggestions on parts I should pay to get upgraded to? IE: corvette servos, hardened sprags, kevlar bands, etc.

Is there anything I can have done to 2nd gear to get it to be stronger?

Thanks
Harley

 

[downtime2nite]

sounds to me like you have a overheating problem, if the tranny is dieing that quickly, also the cooler in the radiator may be clogged up, if the temperature of the fluid in the pan is over 150-160 then you need additional cooling, and the reason the fluid gets so hot is the torque converter is probably not locking up, make sure the 12volt power to the tranny is working, check out bowtieoverdrive.com /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif

 

[trailblazer87]

When I got mine rebuilt I got a non-locking torque converter put in for playing in the rocks. There is a special fluid out there that is specifically designed for non-locking tc's. It is an additive like the old stuff for rearends with a gov-loc, it is a little slicker and makes the oil slide better through the vanes of a tc. Just can't remember the name of it right now, ever since I put an aftermarket cooler in it hasn't been a problem.

 

[gearjammer]

<font color="blue"> </font color> I don't know if this is the right place to be, but here goes. How can talk to somebody that has enough intelligence to know the difference between a socket wrench and a spare tire? Apparently here in Massachusetts there is no such animal. Where can I find a cable for a hand brake for a 87 Suburban? I have been to 5 garages down here and each one has said it is impossible because I have a lift kit and a rear end that doesn't go with the vehicle. It is a 80 3/4 ton truck, 14 bolt FF. One mechanic said he can "Special Order" them from Chevorlet with no guarantee it will fit. You own them no matter what. $500 to wipe your ass with if it don't work. I also have clutch problems. I recently had my clutch pedal rod repaired so I could at least shift, now the clutch goes all the way to the top before it engages. This is not good. Can you tell me if there is any other system you can use with a hydraulic that you can adjust? Speaking of clutches, I picked up on various Colorado sites, don't ask me which ones, they seem to have good things to say about Centerforce II clutches. Do you know anything about them? Do they have a website or how do you get in touch with them? Remembering of course, that I am in the people's republic of ****UCHUSETTS. (The deep dark crater on the back side of the moon) nobody around here has ever heard of Centerforce clutches let alone how to install one. Again what good would it do if you can't adjust it? Again remembering where I live, and I'm not where 4 wheel drive is a native language spoken like it is where you guys are, is there anyway you can help me find a mechanic that knows about this stuff in this neck of the woods? Please don't tell me to look in the Yellow pages. That's like asking Santa for a pony in my stocking. I gave that up 50 years ago. I kind of like the truck, but I like it to run right too. Thank you for your time. I have other questions too, but we will let them go for another chapter. Desperate /forums/images/icons/confused.gif

 

[tRustyK5]

John,

We all have gone through the massive frustration you are going through right now. That is the one common thread for everyone here...

My advice is to copy your post and start another thread. Many more people will read it and supply you with the answers you need to solve your trucks problems.

There are a couple of types of E-brake set-ups commonly used in 73-91 4x4's with a 14 bolt. I suspect your 14 bolt has two equal length E-brake cables, each one running forwards. By mid 80's the E-brake style changed to one cable running along the diff and joining the other one with one cable running forwards linking it to the E-brake pedal.

I haven't had to deal with this issue with my Jimmy cuz it's almost as old as my 14 bolt...but I've heard that the backing plates from a SF14 bolt will help you out. You'd be able to retain the stock type E-brake set-up your truck came with.

Clutch probs...as far as I know there isn't much to adjust on the hydraulic clutch. It may just need a line repaired and the sytem bled.

Anyways try starting a post outlining what you're having trouble with. Chances are really good someone will have been in the same boat at one time or another.

Rene