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Need an electrical solenoid help/suggestion......

stallion85

stallion85

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I recently installed a Bellevue Warn winch which requires an in line solenoid to supply power to the winch. So far I have screwed up two of them. Both times they would work for a few minutes then stay in the closed position causing the winch to wind on it's own. We all know how dangerous this can be.

I have heard of using a Ford starter solenoid?

Does anyone have some suggestions for me?

Here's a pic of how I had it setup!
13650DSC00565.JPG


From left to right: Power to battery and switch wire, Ground to frame, second switch wire, cable to winch.
 
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Looks like you are using a Constant Duty solenoid. Thos won't carry winching or starting loads for very long. Ford type solenoids are likely your best option.
Not familiar with the "Bellevue" distinction. Does this version not have power out and therefore not need reversing of polarity?

Another option would be to wire two (or more) of that solenoid you've got in series. This would spread the load out, so each won't get as hot. I use flattened 1/2" soft copper pipe for the jumpers.
 
The Bellevue is the pre 8274 winch model, discontinued in 1974. It only has pull no power out. I have also heard that the Ford started solenoids would work, which one should I ask for? My Father in law ran it on his K5 for uears with just one solenoid. I blew two in 1 day??

How would I wire two in series? just jump each wire over to the next?
 
ryoken said:
how about either of these...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-WINCH-SOLENOID-12-VOLT-5-TERMINAL-HEAVY-DUTY-15-301_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43998QQitemZ4565932389QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Click to expand...


I used two of these I purchased from NAPA and they both closed and never released after a few pulls on the the rope with no load??

Do I have them wired incorrectly?

I am using a remote started switch connected to a small round trailer hookup line which is connected to the solenoid to close the circuit....
 
now that i'm looking at your pic.. that other small post to the right should be grounded if i remember correctly..
 
ryoken said:
now that i'm looking at your pic.. that other small post to the right should be grounded if i remember correctly..
Click to expand...


So the one on the right should be grounded and the one on the left should have the other switch wire?

Just curious as to why it worked for a few minutes then stopped??

Do you think that would have burnt up the solenoid? I will try tomorrow and see if it works.

Damn electrical problems!! :D
 
yeah, i'm no solenoid expert but the ones i see like that have one of the small posts switched and the other grounded... got a Hateras with 440's in it with those solenoids and thats how they're set up...

not exactly sure what that would do if left ungrounded...

i see tons of huge ones on the Detroits in the boats... replace em occasionally and jump em sometimes... but i don't know much about different styles, continous duty, amp ratings, etc.. think i'll do some research on solenoids..
 
Get a Cole-Herese solenoid. I have one rated at 200amp contin. Any good parts store will have them or you can find them online. I use this for my battery isolator.
T.J.
 
Looks like a good soleoid. Does anyone know why the other two would seize up on me so quickly?

Just wanting to verify if I had this thing hooked up correctly or not. I would hate to burn one up on the trail while winching. Could cause a serious injury to someone..... :doah:
 
If they are staying in the "closed" (Power to the winch) position. Then they probally can not handle the current (Amps) the winch is drawing. This will actully weld the contacts together. Go with something like the Cole-Herese solenoid that TJS is talking about. Make sure it is a continuous duty solenoid.
That means the low power side (coil side)(Connect to the dash switch or whatever) can be constantly energized without frying.
 
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