CK5
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need brake help QUIK
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Yep.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I'm going to agree.
But, on our trucks isn't the front line bigger than the rear?
But, on our trucks isn't the front line bigger than the rear?
What truck is this on? I was thinking 4 wheel disk. Don't know why I thought that. If it is disk/drum, disk should be a step bigger.
I believe it is best to replace each line with whatever size it currently is. I do know that even a soft brake hose can make a difference in the front end pulling to one side. Years ago my dad bought a K30 brand new and it would pull to the right if I remember right from brand new. Sent it back to the dealer a few times and they found that the left brake hose was of a different diameter. Seems the factory was installing two different hoses other than just them being left and right. They had to wait for a replacement from GM but finally got it straightened out.
The Factory rear line is larger because it need volume to the wheel cylinder and the fronts are smalled disk needs pressure.
rear feed line @ master to prop valve is 1/4 then to rear is 1/4 to hose then tee to twin 3/16 lines to each wheel.
front feed line @ master to prop valve is 3/16 and then twin 3/16 to each wheel .
master is front small resivor = rear brakes .
master is rear BIG resivor = front brakes.
front feed line @ master to prop valve is 3/16 and then twin 3/16 to each wheel .
master is front small resivor = rear brakes .
master is rear BIG resivor = front brakes.
we cut them up with the frame and forgot to make a mental note of what they were.
thanks guys..
I bought some 3/16. and I was thinking I should have 2 sizes. just wasn't sure. ill have to pick out a different prop valve than what I had picked.
I am really good at re-engineering stuff so it works better. But, if I don't know if it will work better or worse, I tend to leave it alone.
Plus, my system when working on my vehicles and my friend's vehicles, is: Make sure it will steer and stop.
Getting it to go is secondary.
Its entirely possible that that tubing will work just fine. But the engineers who designed the different size tubing did so for a reason.
Could be cost, could be flow rate.
I have done lots of brake lines in the past. I kept a full gallon of brake fluid, flaring tool, cutter, fittings, and a roll of tubing in my old Jeep at all times.
Since it was a single circuit brake system, when I tore off a line on a stump or a tree I was running over, I lost all brakes.
First dry spot I came to, I could slide under replace that section of line, and be back on the road in minutes with spongy brakes.
Soon as I got some help, I could finish bleeding them and all was well.
So, I did a LOT of brake line work.
Today, if I damaged one line, I would dig out my tools and replace it. But if I was redoing an entire system, I would not even start as long as an outfit like Inline tube had a replacement.
http://inlinetube.com/
Those guys do good work. I replaced the entire system on my truck with their stainless steel lines, because the ones that came on it had rusted out in places and I did not want that again.
Every fitting was right, all bends were in the right places, all the rock guards were the same as the factory.
There is no way I would redo an entire system from scratch unless they did not list a replacement.
Plus, my system when working on my vehicles and my friend's vehicles, is: Make sure it will steer and stop.
Getting it to go is secondary.
Its entirely possible that that tubing will work just fine. But the engineers who designed the different size tubing did so for a reason.
Could be cost, could be flow rate.
I have done lots of brake lines in the past. I kept a full gallon of brake fluid, flaring tool, cutter, fittings, and a roll of tubing in my old Jeep at all times.
Since it was a single circuit brake system, when I tore off a line on a stump or a tree I was running over, I lost all brakes.
First dry spot I came to, I could slide under replace that section of line, and be back on the road in minutes with spongy brakes.
Soon as I got some help, I could finish bleeding them and all was well.
So, I did a LOT of brake line work.
Today, if I damaged one line, I would dig out my tools and replace it. But if I was redoing an entire system, I would not even start as long as an outfit like Inline tube had a replacement.
http://inlinetube.com/
Those guys do good work. I replaced the entire system on my truck with their stainless steel lines, because the ones that came on it had rusted out in places and I did not want that again.
Every fitting was right, all bends were in the right places, all the rock guards were the same as the factory.
There is no way I would redo an entire system from scratch unless they did not list a replacement.
A friend of mine does a LOT of brake line replacements,but he buys the tubing in rolls 25 feet long and flares each line himself--lately he has been using the new copper/nickel lines that flare a lot easier and are gauranteed not to rust..it sometimes takes him a whole 8 hour day to replace every brake line on some vehicles..(ABS ones might take 2 days)...
He has only installed a set of pre-made stainless ones on his own '62 Nova and he said while they were excellent quality and had all the correct bends,etc,,it was dam near impossible to get them in the places the factory routed them without having to bend them,unless the body was off the chassis..
...
I always wondered about that myself,after taking off original lines in one peice and having a hard time getting them out of the frame and the areas they were threaded in to..
I did all the brake lines in my truck over about 2 years ago using the pre-made cheapie lines and I wiped a coating of grease on them,but they are already showing rust in spots..I figured it only takes me about an hour to change them all and the truck might not outlive the lines,so why buy the high priced ones..
I noticed the later trucks my friend works on have 3/16" lines going to the rear wheels instead of 1/4" like the older trucks did..thought that was kind of weird...
He has only installed a set of pre-made stainless ones on his own '62 Nova and he said while they were excellent quality and had all the correct bends,etc,,it was dam near impossible to get them in the places the factory routed them without having to bend them,unless the body was off the chassis..
...I always wondered about that myself,after taking off original lines in one peice and having a hard time getting them out of the frame and the areas they were threaded in to..
I did all the brake lines in my truck over about 2 years ago using the pre-made cheapie lines and I wiped a coating of grease on them,but they are already showing rust in spots..I figured it only takes me about an hour to change them all and the truck might not outlive the lines,so why buy the high priced ones..
I noticed the later trucks my friend works on have 3/16" lines going to the rear wheels instead of 1/4" like the older trucks did..thought that was kind of weird...
the 3/16th is because of abs.. if you look in the frame youll probably see 2 of them going to the back and what looks like another prop valve mounted in the frame at the place where it turns into 1 hose. I went with the coated lines that advanced auto had. used them before and had no issues. I need to get the prop valve to get my length measurements right and get them in. I wish I had the money to do all custom with roll stainless and a flare tool... but at the moment I don't 
it would be nice to do it with body off like right now. but we can always go back and do it like that later. we need it out of the shop and back on the road. these will hold up for a few years im sure.
I did find a fixed prop valve with all the right fitting sizes, but id like an adjustable because the factory front/ rear bias on these SUCKS... IMHO
it would be nice to do it with body off like right now. but we can always go back and do it like that later. we need it out of the shop and back on the road. these will hold up for a few years im sure. I did find a fixed prop valve with all the right fitting sizes, but id like an adjustable because the factory front/ rear bias on these SUCKS... IMHO
