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need brighter headlights???

RootBreaker

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Ok I found a tech article while I was browing around on my electrical issues.
This seems good...
I have to try this.... and if the results are the same... need to do this..

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml

they have other tech docs that are good too...

they say if behind your alt is 14.7V and turn on headlights, highbeams and wipers... if drops down to say 11v you have problems... and they sell a kit to fix it. I want to test this and see...


also their volt meter on the dash read low volts until they did this now it reads 14v....
I have that same problem.. mine never reads above 12V

What do you think about this? could we use a different relay and how would we wire it up? obviously they will sell you the kit for $28 with the wiring instructions... but would be nice to figure out how they did it on the cheaper side as I have 6 relays not being used....
 
Yup, its in my "Whats that ryoken up to?" thread too..

Substantially better than stock... I went overboard and run 10 g pos and grd to the lights..

Now I just need to figure out what bulbs to run... mine are 1/2 full of water! :doah: :haha:

haven't added it to my diagram..

diagram31.jpg


but here is what i went off of, mines a tad different up at the switch due to the conturas...

modifiedrelaycircuit9hu.jpg
 
COOL.... looks good.. I dont understand yours as much...


however I see in the second pic there is 2 relays.... 1 for low and 1 for highbeams... I get that but why is there a 3rd relay?
I notice that the 3rd feeds both the others.....

7mo old is ripping up the paper... be back.. wife needs help :haha:
 
mine doesn't have the headlight mod in it yet.. its in the works...

the 3rd relay is to have both sets of lights on at once if your using the factory wiring... i don't run this because I have that function permenantly in my dash with my conturas wiring and don't need to run the 3rd relay...
 
ryoken said:
mine doesn't have the headlight mod in it yet.. its in the works...

the 3rd relay is to have both sets of lights on at once if your using the factory wiring... i don't run this because I have that function permenantly in my dash with my conturas wiring and don't need to run the 3rd relay...

so the relay trick is a definite better way of doing this? so this is more of a must?
I am not ready to do this yet but will be eventually.....
 
RootBreaker said:
so the relay trick is a definite better way of doing this?
...

the overall relay mod? or the specifac 3rd relay?

the mod is super simple, and super effective... Can be done on the cheap... No brainer....
 
I really want to do this....but don't want to do it until i have a heat gun, good soldering iron, shrink wrap, good relays, and good relay sockets.

Easy mod, but if you do a crappy job wiring....you could be on teh side of the road with no lights.....
 
Yup, if you've got all the stuff you need, it's easy...

On the boats, I'm used to designing an electrical system, them implementing it with quality products and anal orginized neatness... Do it right, do it once.. Nothing better than a perfectly constructed wiring system...

My K5 has developed itself into a different sort of gig, due to daily driving it.. Same quality materials and alot is 100%, but certain things I've had to leave long, etc due to adding each system.. will need to trim up and final bundle here and there once everything's in...
 
Test the volt gauge by measuring voltage at the FUSE panel, that's where it gets it's voltage. Then go measure the back of the alternator under the same conditions. Up to about .5V difference can be expected due to the wiring and connectors, but if you are under about 13V at the alternator with everything on and running, you have a problem.

If the volt gauge is "off" in its reading, thats fine, you still know that IF the gauge goes one direction or other from where it normally sits, you've got a problem. (assuming the gauge works at all of course :))

Alternator output increases with RPM, if idle RPM is low, you will see lower voltage at idle.
 
RootBreaker said:
Ok I found a tech article while I was browing around on my electrical issues.
This seems good...
I have to try this.... and if the results are the same... need to do this..

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/brighter-headlights.shtml

they have other tech docs that are good too...

they say if behind your alt is 14.7V and turn on headlights, highbeams and wipers... if drops down to say 11v you have problems... and they sell a kit to fix it. I want to test this and see...


also their volt meter on the dash read low volts until they did this now it reads 14v....
I have that same problem.. mine never reads above 12V

What do you think about this? could we use a different relay and how would we wire it up? obviously they will sell you the kit for $28 with the wiring instructions... but would be nice to figure out how they did it on the cheaper side as I have 6 relays not being used....
Mark Hamilton/MAD ELECTRICAL doesn't appear to be in business anymore. That site is not supported. To bad too, He seemed to really know his stuff.
 
roadnotca said:
Mark Hamilton/MAD ELECTRICAL doesn't appear to be in business anymore. That site is not supported. To bad too, He seemed to really know his stuff.


I didnt even notice that..... oh well.... maybe the use of this ole mighty site will work..... :wink1:

expecially since I just renewed my subscription... well didnt have a choice... it automatically renewed!!!! :doah:
 
Some definite mods for our trucks; headlight relays, Furd style remote solenoid, high output alternator, dual batts. Its all junk yard stuff too.:D
 

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