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Need CK5's Help

seattle73k5

seattle73k5

1/2 ton status
Joined
May 6, 2005
Posts
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Location
San diego/Camp Pendleton
I have some 44" boggers with rims in the tires section for trade or sale.....I am not sure what to ask for them..I would like to get enough to buy different rims and tires for my new application.

I guess my biggest concern is shaving the calipers on the D60 for 15" rims...this is my daily driver the thought just scares the cr@p out of me, especially since my kids ride in it every now and than.

need advice !!!!!!!
 
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have much tread? what type of rims? condition? useful info.

AFA the caliper grinding, if it scares you get 17" rims. I ground mine, no worries. Believe me, I don't want to die. There is more material (left) on my calipers now than the 10 bolt calipers had stock, so its all good.

j
 
well I wasn't trying to sell them in this thread...that's why I was directing lookers towards the for sale thread....

But they have about 600 miles of street time and no chunks missing or anything like that they are basicly new.....rims are MT classics 15x12 6 lug.
 
I drive mine regularly, with my kids...I am unconcerned. My calipers have about 20,000 miles on them since i ground them. They also have about a half dozen panic stops behind them as well. There is a ton of meat on those things and i would not hesitate to grind them.


Rene
 
how big of tires are you running

22634100_2242_2_.JPG


these have alot of mass rotating to stop so grinding the calipers when driving on the street is a little rattleing to the nerves.
 
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I run 39.5x15x15 TSL's on steel rims. Not a light combo either...

Rene
 
seattle73k5 said:
I guess my biggest concern is shaving the calipers on the D60 for 15" rims...this is my daily driver the thought just scares the cr@p out of me, especially since my kids ride in it every now and than.

need advice !!!!!!!
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i'd be more concerned with runnin 44" tires on 1/2 ton axles. :eek1:
 
Muddytazz said:
If you read his original post, it says he's running a D60
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That would be why I am interested in trading or selling these rims and tires for 16.5 rims and tires so they fit over my new D60 without shaving the calipers...and my new 14Blt will not be a problem...but thanks for noticing my match stick axles :D Know anyone interested in 10Blt front and 12Blt rear with new 4:56 gears and new Auburn lockers?
 
seattle73k5 said:
That would be why I am interested in trading or selling these rims and tires for 16.5 rims and tires so they fit over my new D60 without shaving the calipers...and my new 14Blt will not be a problem...but thanks for noticing my match stick axles :D Know anyone interested in 10Blt front and 12Blt rear with new 4:56 gears and new Auburn lockers?
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how many miles are on those axles?
 
I purchased the truck with 60 miles on the tranny, t-case, and axles gears and diff's. I have put about 500 miles on it since I bought it. so I can garuntee 500 miles and the word of the previous owner of 60 miles everything else he has told me about the rig has turned out to be true so I would say 560 miles give or take. and the front gears have not been used since I bought the truck because of the lift I have yet to get the front drive shaft extended so the front gears have 0 miles as far as I know. well since I have had the truck anyways there are no miles on the front gears and diff.
 
seattle73k5 said:
I purchased the truck with 60 miles on the tranny, t-case, and axles gears and diff's. I have put about 500 miles on it since I bought it. so I can garuntee 500 miles and the word of the previous owner of 60 miles everything else he has told me about the rig has turned out to be true so I would say 560 miles give or take. and the front gears have not been used since I bought the truck because of the lift I have yet to get the front drive shaft extended so the front gears have 0 miles as far as I know. well since I have had the truck anyways there are no miles on the front gears and diff.
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the gears spin weather or not they are hooked up to the driveshaft. as long as your front tires move, the gears move. there is just not force from the driveshaft.
 
Really that's interesting could you explain the physics as how the gears would be spinning when the hubs are not locked and the axle shafts there for are not engaged, and the front drive shaft is not hooked up so there is no spinny on yoke for Diff to engage gears hmmmmmmm :rolleyes: .

You must have one of those super dooper axles that don't need hubs engaged to spin the axle shafts :eek1: .

I wish I had one of those it would have saved me a bundle on warn hubs and lenghtening the front drive shaft.

Sorry I have a streak of sarcasm a mile wide in me somewhere :haha:
 
The grease in your hubs is heavy enought to drag the front stub shafts around with the wheels. if you where to try to hold the pinion gear still as you drive with a bar, you could, but with the transfercase in not in gear (front output anyway) the gears will rotate as will the drive shaft, just not as fast as the rear. IMO this will cause no real wear or tear on any front end parts.
Just my input, by no means the final word on this
 
:D I thought it was funny also. It's good to see you catch the bad info :haha: They tried to educate you. and you educated them instead :haha: :haha:
 
Why not pick up some 15" wheels with 2.5" backspacing. You wouldn't need to grind much if at all. You'll be a little wider, but 44's your wide anyway.
 
perp said:
The grease in your hubs is heavy enought to drag the front stub shafts around with the wheels. if you where to try to hold the pinion gear still as you drive with a bar, you could, but with the transfercase in not in gear (front output anyway) the gears will rotate as will the drive shaft, just not as fast as the rear. IMO this will cause no real wear or tear on any front end parts.
Just my input, by no means the final word on this
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If there is enough friction to rotate the entire gear assembly when the hubs are not locked, then you've got some serious problems with your hubs man. Something is seized up for sure.

I just rebuilt my front 10 bolt (yeah yeah it's good enough for me at the moment) and packed the hell out of it with grease, and have not seen the axle shafts move at all after driving 300+ miles....
 
tomseviltwin said:
Why not pick up some 15" wheels with 2.5" backspacing. You wouldn't need to grind much if at all. You'll be a little wider, but 44's your wide anyway.
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Because like you said they would stick out way to far and on compression they would be nowhere near stuffing in the wheel wells......I already have to trim the fenders to stuff them with 4" backspacing. well stuffing 44" tires do you ever really stuff 44's :rolleyes:

scrappy88 said:
If there is enough friction to rotate the entire gear assembly when the hubs are not locked, then you've got some serious problems with your hubs man. Something is seized up for sure.

I just rebuilt my front 10 bolt (yeah yeah it's good enough for me at the moment) and packed the hell out of it with grease, and have not seen the axle shafts move at all after driving 300+ miles....
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That's my thinking as well Scrappy if he is spinning without engaging the hubs he needs to take a serious look at his axle shafts and hubs....or clean the sludge and dirt out of the spindle and hubs and re-pack some new grease in them bad boys.
I have never had mine spin free just cause the tires move :eek1:

Hey scrap check out the other post of with the pics of your "old" axles in it couple guys going to town on each other as to where they came from :haha:

And hey I saw your rig and your 10 blt should last you for a while with the set up your runnin on her depending on your driving style :D
 
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