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Need guidance from the pros :)

I

Iration_k5

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Location
Milford MA
Good morning everyone!

So I just got my K5 about a month ago... I love this, and definitely going to be keeping her around for a while:

Currently she has:

Crate 350 - TBI
700r4 transmission
Np241 TC
Stock Rear/Front Diffs
I believe its a 4" Lift on 33" Mickey Thompson Bajas

And I just ordered the Softtopper Top for her. Can't wait!
So thats her... but. Not enough for me... Needs to be higher :)

I want to get a 6in Lift and have 36's or 37's tucked under her... I know I should trim up the fenders (and I will probably buy flares as well)

What else will I need for this set up? a T-case drop? Can my diff's handle this? Driveshafts? Steering? What upgrades would you recommend along with this setup?

This will be my daily driver, as well as a slight off road truck (so I would want some flex...)

I am new to the truck world... so please excuse me for my lack of knowledge :dunno:

Thank you all so much for the help in advance!
 
Images :) :)
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You are going to need different axles if you plan on driving it anywhere besides the mall. Nice looking truck by the way.
 
Thank you. I was actually looking at doing a Dana 60 front and Corporate 14 rear. With 4.56s...


Not sure about the need for lockers though. Recommended or no?

And thank you :)
 
Looks good. Rear locker would be nice, other than that I'd just rock it like it is. 4" and 33's works great for daily drive sometimes offroad vehicle.
 
Really, your gonna trim that? It looks so clean! Ugh what a waste of nice sheet metal.... :doah:
 
I will only trim if I absolutely need to. I'm hoping I will not need to trim anything with the right lift and tires.

Even with 4inches and 33inch tires I'm still the smallest of my buddies trucks. Haha.

I was just looking for a few more inches of lift and maybe 3 inches bigger on the tires (hopefully not needing to trim). I just didn't know (other than axles) what I would need to successfully pull this off.
 
6" and 35s is my personal favorite stance. Have u looked at the "how will my truck look with xx tires and xx lift" thread here yet? You can look for hours. You might look into getting a 2 inch shackle flip from ord for the rear, that would net you 6 back there and you wouldnt need new springs, and then have Ord build you some custom springs that will ride way better, and they can recenter the front axle a little better by moving the pin. You would prolly be looking at $700 in parts to do front and back. Also cross over steering would be really nice.
 
I had a 4" and 39.5's. but yeah your truck is way to nice to start trimming the body lines.
 
And depending on what kind of wheeling you do will determine if bigger axles are needed. There are alot of guys running 35"+ tires that wheel on ten bolts. I say run what ya got and if they start breaking alot, then upgrade.
 
Honestly, anything bigger than 33's and you should trim or you can't have any flex. Lifting to the sky brings a lot of driveline and steering issues and having a mile of space between the wheel opening and the tire looks silly, just to avoid contact at the front and rear of the fender opening. You need to open up at least 2" of metal at the front and back of the front wheel openings. There are many threads here on how to do this ranging from "hold my beer and hand me the sawzall" to stunning jobs that look better than factory.


It's a beautiful ride, so you might want to consider having a pro roll the openings and make the fender mods look great. If you're thinking of flares (i.e. cutouts) then the trim method doesn't matter much, as long as you take rust-prevention measures.

With overdrive, I would put 4.88 gears on 35's and 5.13 with 37's, although one step higher (lower numbers) would also work.
 
Deuling said:
6" and 35s is my personal favorite stance. Have u looked at the "how will my truck look with xx tires and xx lift" thread here yet? You can look for hours. You might look into getting a 2 inch shackle flip from ord for the rear, that would net you 6 back there and you wouldnt need new springs, and then have Ord build you some custom springs that will ride way better, and they can recenter the front axle a little better by moving the pin. You would prolly be looking at $700 in parts to do front and back. Also cross over steering would be really nice.
Click to expand...

Love that thread. Gone through all the pages (in the weeks prior to purchase and till now... never gets old)

And that is a whole lot cheaper than I had imagined. I will look into that route for sure. I like the 6" and 35"s look too, I was just looking for one more inch on tires. Thanks for both the comments and the tips :)
 
Blue85 said:
Honestly, anything bigger than 33's and you should trim or you can't have any flex. Lifting to the sky brings a lot of driveline and steering issues and having a mile of space between the wheel opening and the tire looks silly, just to avoid contact at the front and rear of the fender opening. You need to open up at least 2" of metal at the front and back of the front wheel openings. There are many threads here on how to do this ranging from "hold my beer and hand me the sawzall" to stunning jobs that look better than factory.


It's a beautiful ride, so you might want to consider having a pro roll the openings and make the fender mods look great. If you're thinking of flares (i.e. cutouts) then the trim method doesn't matter much, as long as you take rust-prevention measures.

With overdrive, I would put 4.88 gears on 35's and 5.13 with 37's, although one step higher (lower numbers) would also work.
Click to expand...

Thanks blue. I wasn't going the "hold my beer and hand me the sawzall" road. I would have a fabricator do it for sure.

Thanks for the tip on the gearing as well.

How about transfer case drops? Extended drive shafts? Are those needed on a 6in lift setup?
 
I try to be savior of sheet metal as much as possible lol. If you guys wanna hack nice sheet metal, come trade some of us rust belt guys and hack up our rusty stuff instead :haha: I also bitch at people up here for driving old sheetmetal rigs in the winter so dont feel bad lol.
 
I dont like the idea of the tc drop as it makes the rear shaft angle better, but makes the front worse.... If you have vibrations run a cv shaft in the rear. I would look into a sye kit for your 241. It allows for the slip yoke to be on the drive shaft itself in the rear and makes it so there is no slip yoke on the tcase. Also gets you much better angles in the rear by shortening the tailshaft housing.
 
Softtop rocks but one bad thing is side window is too small and gives you a blind spot right behind passenger seat. Sucks backing out of the driveway. Nearly a year later and it still stays dry but I re seal the seams every 6 months.
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And like everybody else, don't trim if you can avoid it. PO trimmed my truck and made a mess. Had to get new fenders.
10 bolts will last on 33" but if you go bigger tires and wheel anything but forestry trails do D60-14 bolt.
 
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