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need help deciding how to lift my 89K5

George_Pimpdaddy

1/2 ton status
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Edmonton Alberta Canada
So like it says im looking into the lift now and its on my 89 K5 and i have 3/4ton 10bolt front and a 14FF and 35" BFG Mud's.
I am looking for about 4-5" of lift and need new rear springs and would also like to try to solve my front hedder and shackle problem with the rub. I like the DIY4X shackle flip and also am interested in 56" rears. Now I Daily Drive this beast as its my only truck, also since i have 4.10's now i cant see myself going past 36" tires and i also ditched the saybar. So im looking to the brotherhood on advise on best ride and function on my DD. Also there is no rock crawling around here.
 
Those are some good questions.. im keeping an eye on this thread, as i am in the same boat. =\
 
Rear....Shackle flip, extended shackles or zero rate if you want the extra inch. If you are going 56" in the rear, get a 2" lift spring.

Front.... TC 4" EZ rides, extended shackles, orzero rate if you need the extra inch.

You will need a drop steering arm and extended brake lines.
 
Rear....Shackle flip, extended shackles or zero rate if you want the extra inch. If you are going 56" in the rear, get a 2" lift spring.

Front.... TC 4" EZ rides, extended shackles, orzero rate if you need the extra inch.

You will need a drop steering arm and extended brake lines.


X2-
 
shackle flip, new leafs, shocks, extended brake lines, drop steering arm, an alignment once you get the new tires.
 
shackle flip, new leafs, shocks, extended brake lines, drop steering arm, an alignment once you get the new tires.

sounds perfect for a mild build. i plan to go the same way before too long and already have most of the parts. even though you're not swapping tires, an alignment after the lift is a good idea since you'll me changing steering geometry some. i'll probably blow it off with mine since my k5 doesn't seem many miles.

read up on here about some of the less desirable effects of a shackle flip. apparently, they're pretty problem free for most users, though.
 
you can do an alignment yourself, very very easy from what i have read..i plan on doing it soon..

i printed it out once from pirate..now that my fingers are going to be tired..
Put the front on jack stands and clamp a straight edge to each rotor, then measure then from front and behind. a tape measure should easily handle the tolerances here, esp. since you want 1.16 to 1.8 of toe in. this will also make you want to remove and=y stupid rock guards if you haven't already.

then a pic i edited real quick
alignmentjh3.png
 
you can do an alignment yourself, very very easy from what i have read..i plan on doing it soon..

i printed it out once from pirate..now that my fingers are going to be tired..
Put the front on jack stands and clamp a straight edge to each rotor, then measure then from front and behind. a tape measure should easily handle the tolerances here, esp. since you want 1.16 to 1.8 of toe in. this will also make you want to remove and=y stupid rock guards if you haven't already.

then a pic i edited real quick
alignmentjh3.png
Good info, but more than Pimpdaddy (lol) needs to know. There is no need to touch the tie-rod when installing the lift kit. As long as your current tires aren't worn out unevenly. You will need to lengthen the draglink, forgot which way u need to turn it. But basically center the steering wheel then adjust draglink till the tires are straight.

take it around the block and adjust the draglink if needed.
 

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