CK5
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need help from a guy that knows about 454's

It’s probably a 7200# gvw being a 6ug. The 8 Lug 2500’s typically started at 8600#.

The issue really lies in yes since everything is infinitely swappable, one could stuff a 454/4L80e combo in but it would not technically increase the GVW or the GCWR. Frames differ in height and thickness of material. Springs handle more weight, brakes are larger and the axles are heavier.

Wes is right with fuel being what it is cost wise you may find some getting out of a big block truck because of the poor mileage they get. If I needed one I’d look for a 96-99 with the L29 version, roller cam and multi port injection is better than the tbi stuff. It sounds like the current truck has been beat to shit and oddball stuff swapped in. I’d not want to deal with that crap.
 
It’s probably a 7200# gvw being a 6ug. The 8 Lug 2500’s typically started at 8600#.

The issue really lies in yes since everything is infinitely swappable, one could stuff a 454/4L80e combo in but it would not technically increase the GVW or the GCWR. Frames differ in height and thickness of material. Springs handle more weight, brakes are larger and the axles are heavier.

Wes is right with fuel being what it is cost wise you may find some getting out of a big block truck because of the poor mileage they get. If I needed one I’d look for a 96-99 with the L29 version, roller cam and multi port injection is better than the tbi stuff. It sounds like the current truck has been beat to shit and oddball stuff swapped in. I’d not want to deal with that crap.
Absolutely agree with ZOOMAD & Wes - getting an existing heavier chassis truck will most likely be much cheaper and certainly easier but most importantly safer.

I went by this GM VIN code breakdown chart to find the “F” weight rating listing - 7,200 is the most common L.D. 2500 I’ve ever seen too.

IMG_0004.png
 
Your 4th digit is the GVWR is an “F” and that’s between 7001~8000 lbs. which is the light-duty 2500 - basically it’s a slightly glorified 1500 chassis with a mild upgrade in springs and rear axle.

Last bit of advice for ya - write all what you want to do down on paper and what it will cost you BEFORE you spend the first dime and evaluate if it’s worth it for your budget.
There are plenty of great folks around here that can guide and help - just get a plan together first because changing things once you started gets expensive quick and could get confusing for those helping.
i definitely will write everything i want to do like parts wise and run it by you guys and see what yall think.

i think what i want to do now is just make it sound good with a decent chop and maybe have it to where its got a little power when i need it for like pulling normal stuff (four wheelers, boats, etc) but with the realization that my truck can't handle what i wanted is kind of good thing i don't have to buck wild with parts and machining so i'll save a little bit of cash.
 
It’s probably a 7200# gvw being a 6ug. The 8 Lug 2500’s typically started at 8600#.

The issue really lies in yes since everything is infinitely swappable, one could stuff a 454/4L80e combo in but it would not technically increase the GVW or the GCWR. Frames differ in height and thickness of material. Springs handle more weight, brakes are larger and the axles are heavier.

Wes is right with fuel being what it is cost wise you may find some getting out of a big block truck because of the poor mileage they get. If I needed one I’d look for a 96-99 with the L29 version, roller cam and multi port injection is better than the tbi stuff. It sounds like the current truck has been beat to shit and oddball stuff swapped in. I’d not want to deal with that crap.
i agree i'm changing my build to better suit the truck as far as my truck does have a bunch of redneck/crackhead repairs but i've been through it extensively and it's ok to build it's got good bones i'm planning on doing a "restoration' on it by putting back to something you might would have seen built in the late/early 90s-00s basically just fixing the janky stuff redoing the interior replacing body panels that are easy to do and painting it the truck has sentimental value to me since it was my first truck and there's alot of memories i want to remember in it plus i like a challenge.

finding out now that it had a 350 in it originally makes me wonder if the guy i bought it from may have lied to me about it being swapped if so i'm not even mad its got 350k plus on it and it has not been maintained and abused but it runs good the trans is starting to go but that's expected i don't even hesitate to do anything in it.
 
Your stock rockers should be fine, I ran a similar size cam on stock rockers forever.
I'm kinda dumb i gave the wrong kit thats not the kit i was looking but it was one i was curious about since it had a bigger lift this is the kit i meant to post.

COMP Cams K11-600-4
 
We all make mistakes, no biggie.

The cam I ran had .533 lift so you’re fine with stock rockers with that kit.

Flat tappet cams are fine but be absolutely textbook on the adjustment, break in and oil with zinc, lots of people complain of wiped cams nowadays but if you’re careful you’ll be alright.
 
We all make mistakes, no biggie.

The cam I ran had .533 lift so you’re fine with stock rockers with that kit.

Flat tappet cams are fine but be absolutely textbook on the adjustment, break in and oil with zinc, lots of people complain of wiped cams nowadays but if you’re careful you’ll be alright.
alright well i appreciate the input i'm not entirely sure which one i wanna go with but the first kit i sent said it required 9:1 compression and since i've decided to just do a dirty build (no machining) i'm not really wanting to figure out all the logistics for it but either way i have the cam/lifters/springs and timing chain figured now i just need to clean up my valves and lap them with grinding compound then figure out pistons and rods and i'm gonna pull the trigger on the parts.
 
Stock rockers are OK with that lift. Aftermarket rockers are usually stiffer with less deflection and often less friction, but not required at that level.

The magnum cams are decades old, they have better profiles available.

The thumpr cams aren't that old but they are made for people who want a choppy idle but don't need the choppy idle for the RPM range their application requires.

If you want to fill out my form I can make some recommendations?

I could help you select all the parts for the whole build if you want, I do that for free, I just ask you try to buy the parts from me, occasionally I recommend parts I can't get.
 
Stock rockers are OK with that lift. Aftermarket rockers are usually stiffer with less deflection and often less friction, but not required at that level.

The magnum cams are decades old, they have better profiles available.

The thumpr cams aren't that old but they are made for people who want a choppy idle but don't need the choppy idle for the RPM range their application requires.

If you want to fill out my form I can make some recommendations?

I could help you select all the parts for the whole build if you want, I do that for free, I just ask you try to buy the parts from me, occasionally I recommend parts I can't get.
yeah man i'd love some more recommendations i can't guarantee i'll be able to buy any parts from you though so i won't feel good with myself if you help me with my entire build so just simple recommendations are fine.

just let me know about the form and i'll happily fill it out.
 
I will paste the form here, I didn't prefill out anything. If you don't know or need advice just leave it blank or put TBD if you plan to replace it.

Vehicle Year, Make, Model:

Vehicle Weight:

Engine Model:

Engine Bore: Stroke:

Compression:

Cylinder Heads:

Cylinder Heads ported or Stock?

Combustion chamber size:

Runner Volume

Valve Sizes:

Head Flow Numbers:

EFI or Carb

Throttle/Carb Size:

Intake Manifold Model:

Intake Manifold Type:

Induction: NA Nitrous Supercharger Turbo

Stages of Nitrous:

Suprcharger Type : Roots Screw Centrifugal

Transmission:

Torque Converter Size/Stall(if applicable):

Drive Axle Gears:

Tire Size:

Intended Use:





How do you want it to idle? (smooth, fair, moderate, lopey, etc.)





What RPM range do you like to use it/drive in?





Is your priority: low end torque midrange high end power (select 1 or 2)



Can you upgrade valve springs?



Can you upgrade rocker arms?

Exhaust: Manifolds Shorty Headers Mid Length Long Tubes

Primary Diameter:

Collector Diameter:

Exhaust Diameter: Single Dual
 
I will paste the form here, I didn't prefill out anything. If you don't know or need advice just leave it blank or put TBD if you plan to replace it.

Vehicle Year, Make, Model: 1992 chevrolet c2500

Vehicle Weight: 7200?

Engine Model: Gen VI 7.4l/454 L21

Engine Bore: Stroke: 4.00

Compression:

Cylinder Heads:

Cylinder Heads ported or Stock? stock as far as i know

Combustion chamber size:

Runner Volume

Valve Sizes:

Head Flow Numbers:

EFI or Carb: carb

Throttle/Carb Size:

Intake Manifold Model: TBD

Intake Manifold Type:

Induction: NA Nitrous Supercharger Turbo: NA

Stages of Nitrous:

Suprcharger Type : Roots Screw Centrifugal

Transmission: TBD

Torque Converter Size/Stall(if applicable):

Drive Axle Gears:

Tire Size: TBD

Intended Use: Street mostly





How do you want it to idle? (smooth, fair, moderate, lopey, etc.)

not entirely sure i kinda want it lopey but not something that sounds like its more than it is so maybe fair/moderate?



What RPM range do you like to use it/drive in?

not sure but not looking at high rpm for very long maybe 6k max but normally around 2.5k to 3.5k.



Is your priority: low end torque midrange high end power (select 1 or 2)

low end torque and mid range

Can you upgrade valve springs? yes



Can you upgrade rocker arms? yes

Exhaust: Manifolds Shorty Headers Mid Length Long Tubes: TBD

Primary Diameter:

Collector Diameter:

Exhaust Diameter: Single Dual: thinking around 2 1/2in and dual more than likely
 
Thank you, that leads me to more questions...

Can you tell me what are your goals for it, how do you plan to use it, etc?

And right now do you plan to rebuild it, just upgrade it a little, or what is your plan?

Will you be staying with a carb or EFI?
 
Thank you, that leads me to more questions...

Can you tell me what are your goals for it, how do you plan to use it, etc?

And right now do you plan to rebuild it, just upgrade it a little, or what is your plan?

Will you be staying with a carb or EFI?
My goals are daily driver with normal truck use occasionally pulling a boat/fourwheeler maybe some occasional heavier loads but nothing exceeding 8k lbs and not often just if I find a project car/truck I know I can haul it.

And right now the plan is to rebuild it and upgrade it I don’t know if you’ve read through the thread but this engine is not in my truck currently I bought it about a year ago off of Facebook marketplace it was locked up and already had some mods I believe it was locked up from rust in the cylinders since it wasn’t stored properly I’ve since completely torn the engine down to bare block minus removing the cam bearings and I see no evidence of anything bad other than some scarring on a crankshaft bearing I’ve since cleaned up the bores with a 3 stone hone they aren’t perfect but i will be measuring the the bores here soon before I buy parts to make sure they don’t need machining.

And I will be doing a carb because I don’t feel like figuring out efi for it and I figure it’d be simpler to do.
 
If you are not a member you may have to host them somewhere and then link the image with the icon above...but I am not 100% sure.
 
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