CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

need help from the Diesel gods!!!!

yep. everything i do to my truck is totally emotion. i work love into my rig, and it serves me well because of it. :wink1:

relax dude. from my experience, as well as reading many people's frustrating experiences w/ air lock, that's the way i see it. if you've had a different experience, that's great. however, you're the first and only person i've ever heard of saying that they've had this kind of success w/ priming the fuel system. if that's accurate, that's great. i just know that i'd hate to be in the original poster's spot (already frustrated) and recieving advice which may or may not work for him. at least with cracking the lines, he knows his system isn't air locked. anyway, chill.
 
X2

I have been in the original posters 'place' trying to muddle through and get a swapped in 6.2 to start for the first time. Although I do believe you, what I was saying was that that did not work for me. It had nothing to do with emotion, but is a real world, first hand experience. Maybe there are other variables that took care of themselves when I finally did crack the injector lines...who knows for sure? All I am saying is that cracking the lines works, and it works quickly. How bad is it to offer advice that works and is based on first hand experience? With all your experience with 6.2's you seem to overlook how easily a 6.2 can eat a starter. In my opinion I'd much rather crack lines and have it start quickly while not killing a starter...rather than keep cranking til the cows come home because it's possible it'll air bleed by itself someday.

Rene
 
WELL, WELL, WELL, I wanna thank everyone of you who posted to this. I listened to ALL of you and tried about everything. AND THE BEAST IS RUNNING!!! I'll let you all in on a secret, I pulled my starter soleniod yesterday and replaced it, then I jumped up and gave it a crank. Well nothing happened. I about had it so I hooked up my battery charger and went back to the dash and looked closer at the button on the dash that I was asking about. Well I turned the keys on and as the "wait" light turned on I pushed and held that button in until the light went off. And BAMMMM she fired and sat there and rumbled. So thanks ya'll very much and just remember every and all suggestion are a help..
 
Are we speaking the same language?

tRustyK5 said:
X2

With all your experience with 6.2's you seem to overlook how easily a 6.2 can eat a starter. In my opinion I'd much rather crack lines and have it start quickly while not killing a starter...rather than keep cranking til the cows come home because it's possible it'll air bleed by itself someday.

Rene

??? Well, maybe we don't speak the same language. I DID say - that by cracking the lines, they would fill faster - and therefore SAVE wear and tear on the starter and batteries. Something unclear about the way I worded that? I mentioned that bleeding the high-pressure injector lines is not absolutely necessary - to help the guy having problems - diagnose his problems. As I said - you CANNOT get an air lock in the injector lines -but letting the air out of them will certainly save time.
And in regard to the 6.2 eating starters - yeah - as will just about any older diesel. At 21-1 compression-ratio - it takes a lot to spin diesel. Also - since a diesel relies on compression-ignition - a high cranking speed is critical for starting. Compound that if you live in a cold area - where battery cranking amps is cut by half at zero degrees - and cranking-voltage drops down well below 9 volts,and things just get worse. Many of the diesels built in the 1950s used 24 volt starters since the 12 volt technology was not usually good enough to hold up with diesel starting. Early 60s, 12 volt diesel starting became more common - but the US built Delcos always had problems - with armature overheating, starter-drive failure, starter-drive stop failure, etc. They simply don't take a lot of abuse - yet by nature - diesel starters get abused most of the time. My point is - there isn't anything unusual about the starters failing on 6.2 diesels as compared to other diesel engines. I worked on a lot of industrial stuff in the 60s - including Allis Chalmers, John Deere, Case, etc. - and they all had the same starter problems (also used similar Stanadyne injection pumps). At some point in time, these companies began to use Japanese built starters - e.g. Hitachi and Nipposdenso and they were MUCH better. This was late 70s. Then, AC Delco starting making a new style gear-reduction starter - which showed up in the Chevy and GMC 6.2 diesels mid-80s. It is a MUCH better starter than the older direct-drive Delco. I'm not 100 % sure - but I suspect Delco does not even make the newer reduction starters. I think they are Nippos-Denso with a Delco name-tag stuck on. Regardless of who makes them, they hold up great. And now - several Chinese companies are hammering cheap clones. I bought several at $85 each brand new - for my 6.2 diesels as well as my Ford/IH 6.9 and 7.3 diesels and I've had zero problems.
 
Thats exactly what I said in my post #14....throw a charge on the batteries.



johndem said:
??? Well, maybe we don't speak the same language. I DID say - that by cracking the lines, they would fill faster - and therefore SAVE wear and tear on the starter and batteries. Something unclear about the way I worded that? I mentioned that bleeding the high-pressure injector lines is not absolutely necessary - to help the guy having problems - diagnose his problems. As I said - you CANNOT get an air lock in the injector lines -but letting the air out of them will certainly save time.
And in regard to the 6.2 eating starters - yeah - as will just about any older diesel. At 21-1 compression-ratio - it takes a lot to spin diesel. Also - since a diesel relies on compression-ignition - a high cranking speed is critical for starting. Compound that if you live in a cold area - where battery cranking amps is cut by half at zero degrees - and cranking-voltage drops down well below 9 volts,and things just get worse. Many of the diesels built in the 1950s used 24 volt starters since the 12 volt technology was not usually good enough to hold up with diesel starting. Early 60s, 12 volt diesel starting became more common - but the US built Delcos always had problems - with armature overheating, starter-drive failure, starter-drive stop failure, etc. They simply don't take a lot of abuse - yet by nature - diesel starters get abused most of the time. My point is - there isn't anything unusual about the starters failing on 6.2 diesels as compared to other diesel engines. I worked on a lot of industrial stuff in the 60s - including Allis Chalmers, John Deere, Case, etc. - and they all had the same starter problems (also used similar Stanadyne injection pumps). At some point in time, these companies began to use Japanese built starters - e.g. Hitachi and Nipposdenso and they were MUCH better. This was late 70s. Then, AC Delco starting making a new style gear-reduction starter - which showed up in the Chevy and GMC 6.2 diesels mid-80s. It is a MUCH better starter than the older direct-drive Delco. I'm not 100 % sure - but I suspect Delco does not even make the newer reduction starters. I think they are Nippos-Denso with a Delco name-tag stuck on. Regardless of who makes them, they hold up great. And now - several Chinese companies are hammering cheap clones. I bought several at $85 each brand new - for my 6.2 diesels as well as my Ford/IH 6.9 and 7.3 diesels and I've had zero problems.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom