Need help (FUEL PROBLEM)??

[tRustyK5]

You have my sympathy on the GP's. Good luck getting those out.

Once you do, replace them with AC60G's or equivalent. Your batt's and starter must be in tip-top shape too for good starting. With poor gp's, low batts and slow cranking it'll never start. A healthy crank speed is needed to get the heat from compression.

Keep us posted.

Rene

 

[dallassnowman]

Ok, so what do I need to do to start it with wd-40??

 

[tRustyK5]

You shouldn't need WD40 at all. I managed to get mine started after an IP change, dry fuel lines and new injectors.

Read Arveetek's post and follow it carefully. I'm not about to rehash it again and all the info is there.

I will tell you that there are a few critical aspects to ensuring a 6.2 will start. Number one is no air or fuel leaks. Number two is adequate fuel delivery to the IP. Number three is no air between the IP and the injectors. Number four is a functioning GP system, and lastly and almost most important is good cranking speed (strong batt's and a good starter and cables)

A 6.2 is very reliable, but unlike a 350 it will not start and run well using bailing wire, and half assed jump start and some duct tape.

Rene

 

[dallassnowman]

Alright point taken I'm changin glow plugs next.
Again thanks for your help. Im new to diesels, and only a driveway(weekend) mechanic....

 

[tRustyK5]

I didn't mean to be harsh, and lord knows the learning curve is steep. I'm still new to diesels myself, but at this point feel pretty confident under my own hood now.

The 6.2 can be a bear to start when things are not as they should be. As I mentioned a good GP system, good cranking speed and no leaks are paramount. Air can be overcome, although it is a PITA.

If you don't have one yet get yourself a Haynes diesel manual. Mine spent months in the 'throne room'.../forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Keep plugging away at it and she'll start.

One other thing, with the AC60G's...they do take longer to get as hot as they need to so you might consider swapping to a manual push button right away. I let mine glow until the seat belt light goes out and it flashes right up. I let em glow another 4 seconds longer in colder weather.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Rene

 

[dallassnowman]

/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gifWell watched the tow truck pull away from my house today... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
My friends dad owns a shop, cost me 50 just to get it there, then 50 per hour. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif..hopefully its just the glow plugs that are stuck. Its hot here and dont have enough time to keep trying myself. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Will keep everyone updated!!!

 

[OFFRDK5]

That sucks man!! But $50 per hour?!?!? /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif And this is a friends shop price? Damm!!!

 

[dallassnowman]

Yeah, no discount at all!!!!
At least I know what they do isnt just to make a dollar!

 

[dallassnowman]

Well Rene you were right (cranking speed) wasnt good enough!!
I thought it was my batteries.
Starter was cranking but not fast enough!
Didnt cost me that much to have the shop fix it either!!
I just got back from Sea World, drove the blazer 4 hrs each way!
Thanks everyone! /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif

 

[tRustyK5]

Good deal!

When I first got my 6.2 swapped in I ran a 'repaired' 28MT starter and thought it was spinning over pretty good. I used to have a hard time starting it in the cold, and not all that great when warm either. Even when warm I'd have to cycle the gp's for about 8-10 seconds, and use about half throttle.

I pony'd up for a new 28MT replacement built by Bosch, and now I don't use the GP's at all when the truck is warm. With temps in the 80's and engine cold it'll still start easily enough with 5 seconds of cranking (I'm lazy sometimes) The best part is the starter comes with a 5 year replacement warranty.

Rene