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Need help, no fluid coming when I pump the brakes.

us74k5

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Ok, my brake system was empty, since I swapped in a dana 60 and 14ff with a rear disc kit. I hooked all of the lines up, opened the bleed screw on the rear passenger caliper, with a one man bleeder thing hooked up to it. Started pumping the brake pedal, and nothing. It will not drain, nadda. I have never done brakes before. Am I supposed to pull the line out of the caliper first, then pump and wait for fluid before attaching it? If so should I do that one at a time, or disconnect all four? Thanks in advance
-Matt
 
One at a time and your going to have A LOT of air in the system to get out. Its going to take some time.
 
the way i always bleed brakes is open the bleeder on one brake at a time, have a friend push and hold the pedal, then close the bleeder, let up on the brake, open the bleeder and repeat. this method takes two people, go grab a neighbor is you have to. to try and be a little clearer, this is the order.

open bleeder
push brake pedal
close bleeder
let up brake pedal
open bleeder
push brake pedal.....

it is essential that you close the bleeder prior to letting up the pedal, if you do not, air will get pulled right back into the line. repeat that until the brake fluid shoots out when the pedal is pushed.

if you are starting with all new(to the vehicle) brakes and lines, you may have trouble getting the fluid to shoot out the first time around. if you can only get fluid to trickle out, close the bleeder and go to the next wheel. with the lines full of air, you will not be able to get much pressure, hence fluid not shooting out. after the bulk of the air is purged out, go through all the brakes again, fluid should shoot out.

remember to keep the brake fluid full. hope this helps.
 
the way i always bleed brakes is open the bleeder on one brake at a time, have a friend push and hold the pedal, then close the bleeder, let up on the brake, open the bleeder and repeat. this method takes two people, go grab a neighbor is you have to. to try and be a little clearer, this is the order.

open bleeder
push brake pedal
close bleeder
let up brake pedal
open bleeder
push brake pedal.....

it is essential that you close the bleeder prior to letting up the pedal, if you do not, air will get pulled right back into the line. repeat that until the brake fluid shoots out when the pedal is pushed.

if you are starting with all new(to the vehicle) brakes and lines, you may have trouble getting the fluid to shoot out the first time around. if you can only get fluid to trickle out, close the bleeder and go to the next wheel. with the lines full of air, you will not be able to get much pressure, hence fluid not shooting out. after the bulk of the air is purged out, go through all the brakes again, fluid should shoot out.

remember to keep the brake fluid full. hope this helps.


DO this! This is your brake bleeding bible!
 
When you are bleeding the brakes, be sure to keep an eye on the master cylinder. If it runs out of fluid, you are back at square one. Also, I have always heard that it is best to start at the passenger side rear wheel because it is furthest from the master cylinder.
 
Ok, my brake system was empty, since I swapped in a dana 60 and 14ff with a rear disc kit. I hooked all of the lines up, opened the bleed screw on the rear passenger caliper, with a one man bleeder thing hooked up to it. Started pumping the brake pedal, and nothing. It will not drain, nadda. I have never done brakes before. Am I supposed to pull the line out of the caliper first, then pump and wait for fluid before attaching it? If so should I do that one at a time, or disconnect all four? Thanks in advance
-Matt

What is a "with a one man bleeder thing"? If it is pressurized, you don't want to be pumping the brakes. Just open the bleeders one at a time, starting with the right rear. You may need to bleed the master cylinder. If it has bleeders, open them one at a time, if no bleeders loosen the lines at the MC one at a time.
 
do as ciffer said but must start at right rear,left rear,right front,left front.doing it in any other order will allow potential air bubbles to go back to the other brake lines.just have someone help you to pump and listen to what you tell them to do.pump it a few times til the pedal gets pressure.then you open bleeder til they say the pedal hit the floor,then close the bleeder and let them pump a few times and repeat til you have fluid at all corners.as was said every few times you do this check the fluid in the resivior to make sure it has fluid.have to get it from the farthest away first to the shortest to expel all air bubbles.as was said if its a new master cylinder also you must bench bleed it to start the fluid running through it.here is the how to do it:

Before bench bleeding the master, completely install all of your replacement or upgraded brake components, including the master cylinder and brake lines; this is so you can hook up the master cylinder as soon as possible after it has been bench bled, to keep gravity from leeching fluid from the master cylinder during the installation of the other components. After installing the system, remove the master cylinder completely from the vehicle. Master cylinders MUST be bench bled outside the vehicle and without any other components attached. This means that if a new master is equipped with a booster, proportioning valve and plumb lines attached, they must all be removed prior to bench bleeding.
Be sure to place the master cylinder level in a vice and secure it properly. If the cylinder isn't level, not all the air will be able to be removed from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder top and fill with fresh brake fluid to the appropriate level as indicated in the master cylinder-- generally about 1/2 to 1 inch from the top of the reservoir.
Insert a pair of short, looped brake lines or rubber tubing from a bench bleeding kit, (available at nearly all auto parts stores), into the two side ports of the master cylinder. (Note: on dual-ported master cylinders where there are four ports, choose one side and use both ports on that one side to perform the bleed process.) Insert one rubber tube into each of the plastic fittings. and the loose ends should be inserted into the master cylinder reservoir. The plastic tab should be used to hold the tubes in place by slipping it over the reservoir separator and the hoses through the round holes.
Using a wooden dowel, a blunt metal rod, or a large Philips screwdriver, compress the master cylinder plunger with slow, deep strokes. Once the large bubbles have subsided, it should become increasingly more difficult to compress the master cylinder piston. Continue to do so with slow, short strokes at the bottom of the piston stroke until no more bubbles appear. The rubber hoses and plastic fittings may be removed from the master cylinder. Secure the master cylinder top, install the master cylinder and leave enough room on the mounting nuts to allow for some movement of the master. This will allow you some breathing room while screwing in the hydraulic lines to help prevent cross-threading the fittings.good luck and let us know it worked.
 
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