looking at a cheap dana 60 that is DRW. what would i need to do to make it a srw?
dont want to miss a deal out of ignorance.
dont want to miss a deal out of ignorance.
Last edited:
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
need help on dana 60-ADDED- D 60 rebuild question
- Thread starter Smokinthehippies
- Start date
You'll need some srw bearing hubs, they're a direct swap. The drw rotors have slightly smaller stud holes so they can be drilled out to fit the srw studs. All other parts are interchangeable.
Beware that srw hubs can be expensive to buy outright, around ~$200 each. If you get lucky you can find someone looking to do the opposite swap and trade.
Other than that, maybe bearings and/or seals. Nothing else needed.
Beware that srw hubs can be expensive to buy outright, around ~$200 each. If you get lucky you can find someone looking to do the opposite swap and trade.
Other than that, maybe bearings and/or seals. Nothing else needed.
Or keep them, and swap wheels to H1 double beadlocks.
Martin
Martin
now let me ask this.
i can get a SRW bolt in local for $1100
or i can drive 3 hours, and get a DRW for $600.
which way would make more sense. btw $600 now is much easier then $1100 at any time. but i hate buying parts to sit on for months til i can make it work.
i can get a SRW bolt in local for $1100
or i can drive 3 hours, and get a DRW for $600.
which way would make more sense. btw $600 now is much easier then $1100 at any time. but i hate buying parts to sit on for months til i can make it work.
ironic part of that, 2 months ago i traded my stock h1's with the 37s away for a set of standard wheels with TSLs. id rather not go back to them tho bcuz i have srw 14b
3 hrs one way or round trip? How much will you spend in fuel?
one way.
probably a hundo in fuel or so.
probably a hundo in fuel or so.
saw something on pirate about machining down the DRW hubs to be used. anyone have the dimensions/ or more details on that part of it?
i'll investigate more after lunch.
i'll investigate more after lunch.
dont do it. It is ghetto. Basically not enough mounting area for me to be comfortable, especially on a full size rig.
factor in 300 ish bucks to convert drw to srw to buy hubs
***saw it on the 60 bible later on. didnt read far enough down page.
all the ones i've been seeing are $350 on the cheap side without rotors or bearings. 550 for a pair with everything including studs and rotors.
For $600 + $100 fuel + 6 hrs driving + cost of srw conversion I would probably look closer locally. I would think finding an srw axle locally for $1000 wouldn't be too hard given a little time.
The trick with either scenerio is getting an axle that needs the least amount of "overhaul" to cust down on the final cost.
** Edit: you don't mention gear ratio, does either of the 2 axles you're looking at have what you want?
The trick with either scenerio is getting an axle that needs the least amount of "overhaul" to cust down on the final cost.
** Edit: you don't mention gear ratio, does either of the 2 axles you're looking at have what you want?
both axles i see are 4.10 which will match the 14bolt i have to go in until i regear anyway.
the problem i have, is i can spend $600 now, and wait for a good price to get parts needed. or i can wait until i can save up to the $1000-1300 a srw would cost. the $600 i have now is a 1 time good behavior bonus from the wife. its not like i only need a few hundred more off the top.
the problem i have, is i can spend $600 now, and wait for a good price to get parts needed. or i can wait until i can save up to the $1000-1300 a srw would cost. the $600 i have now is a 1 time good behavior bonus from the wife. its not like i only need a few hundred more off the top.
ezoliver
Mall Crawler
Usually not cheap to switch the DRW to a SRW unless you find a smokin deal on some hubs or someone to trade setups.
Pretty good deal on EBAY
That purchase will run you at least $460 for hubs and rotors not including the bearings...
I know when I bought my hubs with rotors just like that I got them for $179 each shipped so prices have gone up...
Pretty good deal on EBAY
That purchase will run you at least $460 for hubs and rotors not including the bearings...
I know when I bought my hubs with rotors just like that I got them for $179 each shipped so prices have gone up...
allright so i bought one last night actually.
after posting on here i started looking around and found a dually version for $500 within half hour of my house.
so i grabbed it.
i figure for that price, even if i have to buy new hubs with a rebuild kit, i'll still be in for a srw that would've had to been rebuilt anyway.
after posting on here i started looking around and found a dually version for $500 within half hour of my house.
so i grabbed it.
i figure for that price, even if i have to buy new hubs with a rebuild kit, i'll still be in for a srw that would've had to been rebuilt anyway.
Ok so lets start a new question
been reading all the 60 threads i can find so far, but what i need to know is this,
is there a list of everything i should plan on replacing while its out?
I figure i want to build this thing once and then not have to worry about it.
Not wanting to go crazy like cryo shafts and arb but just new/better then stock but not best stuff.
Does anyone have a link to get as far as bearings/seals/ rebuild kits. Id rather buy one thing and have all the parts needed to make the axle "fresh"
been reading all the 60 threads i can find so far, but what i need to know is this,
is there a list of everything i should plan on replacing while its out?
I figure i want to build this thing once and then not have to worry about it.
Not wanting to go crazy like cryo shafts and arb but just new/better then stock but not best stuff.
Does anyone have a link to get as far as bearings/seals/ rebuild kits. Id rather buy one thing and have all the parts needed to make the axle "fresh"
ezoliver
Mall Crawler
Lots of info here - Dana 60 Tech
Most often broken parts in the dana 60 with large tires are warn hubs and outer shafts.
Replacing the outers with 35 splines is recommended, but then you have to figure out what you want to do as far as hubs go, several options there...
I will be running drive slugs on my truck.
Most often broken parts in the dana 60 with large tires are warn hubs and outer shafts.
Replacing the outers with 35 splines is recommended, but then you have to figure out what you want to do as far as hubs go, several options there...
I will be running drive slugs on my truck.
thanks i've been going over and over the bible trying to absorb it all.
was looking at the 35 spline options. i'm planning on drive slugs so that shouldnt be an issue.
i see the C&M joint for the awesome bushings also has a 35 spline flange for under $200 so that might not be a bad plan.
i have read lots of guys are happy with spicer orignal dana 70 35 spline stub shafts. then good solid non greasable u-joints from spicer.
you want slugs so that problem solved.
and i would just pull the cover and check the insides. mabye add a lock-right locker for 35 spline for the inside as lots of guys run them on even 44" tires in the 60 and thay work good.
then swap on a ruffstuff or diy4x diff cover. install some good oil. then a set of new king pin springs and mabye the ampco bronze bushings over the stock nylon king pin bushings. after installing a set of ampco bushings i can see thay are better. thay fit tight in the knuckle. much better than stock nylon. then bolt it under and go have fun.
you want slugs so that problem solved.
and i would just pull the cover and check the insides. mabye add a lock-right locker for 35 spline for the inside as lots of guys run them on even 44" tires in the 60 and thay work good.
then swap on a ruffstuff or diy4x diff cover. install some good oil. then a set of new king pin springs and mabye the ampco bronze bushings over the stock nylon king pin bushings. after installing a set of ampco bushings i can see thay are better. thay fit tight in the knuckle. much better than stock nylon. then bolt it under and go have fun.
Last edited:
Everything you just said I agree with as it's what ice already found for my "list" which makes me feel better in the stuff I'm finding.
Why not the greaseable joints?
Why not the greaseable joints?
the cross / center is drilled in a plus pattern to let greese go from 1 fitting to all 4 caps. makes it a little weaker. and i have seen as a mechanic for years and read offroad articles that true non greaseable will last longer than greaseable or pluged off greasable.
