need help with pinion angle

[MJF]

Well I finally got my tcase swap done, my 6" lift installed with rear springs, 3/4 ton swap done, new tires on, & soon will put the extended brake lines on. Now it's time to spend the big bucks & get the d-shafts.

The front is pretty straight forward. For now, I'll probably just get the shaft shortened so it'll fit. I'll run that until it breaks or I can afford 1 ton stuff.

I need help with the rear. The springs are pro comp & they have an angled piece already, but it's not enough. The pinion isn't pointing at the tcase. What do I do to get it pointed correctly so I can get my 1 ton cv?

 

[wayne]

You can use degree shimms or the best thing is to cut and reweld the spring perchs where they need to be.

 

[MJF]

Where do I get degree shims? That seems like the easiest & cheapest way to do it.

 

[zakk]

4 wheel part thieves would be an idea. or if you can wait, any of the driveline shops in the mags would do fine. do you know what degree shims you need?

 

[MJF]

I don't know exactly what I need. I am thnking 6 degree. I hope that's right because I just ordered some from avalanche engineering.

It's this little stuff that kills me about working on trucks. You gat all the heavy back breaking work done then a million runs to the parts store later, you finally get the loosee ends tied up.

 

[MJF]

I've got one more question. I have heard that taking the steering arm off is pretty difficult. What are the tricks to getting it off? I am gonna try to get it off tonight or tomorrow.

 

[zakk]

i have heard that using a torch to warm up the *something or other* is a good idea. I usually just use a BFH and elbow grease. IIRC, i used a ball joint seperator to get the arm off the steering box, and a crowbar to get the arm off the diff. i got a D60, so i migh be different on a D44. not to sure.

 

[MJF]

Well I just talked to Jess about my driveshafts. He thinks I will need at least 8-9 degrees to make the shaft work.
Do you guys normally cut & reweld your own perches or take it to a shop to have them rotate the pinion angle?

 

[zakk]

i had mine rewelded when i got the 14B. plus i run a CV rear driveshaft so:

CV + correct pinion angle = no problems /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

i think i just jinxed myself /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[tRustyK5]

I just did a steering arm for my buddy when he did a 4" lift on his 89 Blazer. He soaked the studs and nuts with PB blaster repeatedly over a few days before we attacked it.

It's much easier to do with the diff not under the truck. I used a 5 lbs mini-sledge hammer and hit the arm from the side and down-wards until the split cone washers loosened. As soon as each washer loosened I used some small channel lock pliers to 'pick' the washers out. The whole job took less than 10 minutes.

Just remember to hit it from side to side and from the top down. Do not hit 'up' or you'll seat the washers even more.

One more thing, back the nuts off the studs until they are just above the top of the studs. That way if you do accidentally hit one the nut will protect the stud threads...

Rene

 

[Ryan B.]

MJF-
I'll add my 2 cents here!
I was going through the same thing as you....
I bought the wedge's and put em in... they lasted about 2 weeks before they cracked! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif It didn't help that my old spring perches were rounded a little!
So i called everywhere trying to figure out who would torch off my old spring perches and re weld on some new ones.
I bought some new $30 spring perches from 4wheelparts...
Finally got reffered to "Freeman Frame" /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif in San Jose. DO NOT GO THERE! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
I ended up taking the rear outta my truck and down to him on a friday, and explained to him EXACTLY what i wanted done... we measured the angle of the perches was at something like 14* i needed it shifted about 6* if i remember correctly, making it 20*. There was no mistaking what i wanted done. The guy said it would cost me about $120 for an hour and a half... i came back 1.5 hours later EXACTLY and he charged me $150 for 2 hours! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
I was kinda pissed and didn't really examine what he did other than the welds...
I get it home... bolt it up... and the fawker welded the spring perches at 0*!!!!!!!!!!! Parallel to the ground! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif It was not even close to where it was originally. It was TOTALLY off! I couldn't even correct it with the 6* shims i had, to drive it back down there and show him how he f'd up! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif<- is an understatement!
So long story short, i end up buying another set of $30 spring perches, borrow my buddys cutting torch, my other friends welder... and spend my whole sat. fixing what i payed this guy to f' up for me. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I ended up torching of and re welding new spring perches myself. bolting it up with the u bolts and hook up the driveshaft, and eyballing it maybe 2* down from level with the driveshaft. tack weld it, then unbolt it all and finish welding the perches.
I took polorioid pictures... cut some 20* wedges outta wood to show in the picture how it was totally off and where the 20* would have been. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I should post those pic's for ya.
I went back on monday to show the @$$ the pictures and demand my money back... i had to argue with him for 20 minutes and he ended up giving me $90 back. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

I ended up wasting part of my fri, all of sat, $30 spring perches, and losing $60 to this guy. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
I knew in the back of my head i shoulda just done it myself. Thats when i learned my lesson.
If you want something done right, you gotta do it yourself. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

BTW, i have my buddy's mig welder right now, and a 50' extention cord i could help ya with those spring perches.
The 14bolt cast perches suck to grind off... i was doing that this weekend.. you can't just use a cutting torch like the stamped steel ones on a 12 bolt. some 14's have the steel ones too though.

 

[K5er4Life]

When I put on my 4 inch lift, to get the steering arm off I sprayed some liquid wrench inside, stuck a screwdriver in the split part of the come to open it up then I took out the old trusty 5lb sledge. Mine came out without much trouble.