need help..

[cannibal]

hi all,

i'll get straight to the point, i just recived an edelbrock performer intake manifold 2101, and a set of edelbrock valve covers, so here's the deal, im an ignorant when it comes to mechanics, it's my truck, i have a 78 blazer stock engine and suspension etc, with manual trans and a 33" tires, so im gonna install these stuff into my car and i was wondering if anyone can help me with a detailed (pics will help) infermation on how to install the intake manifold, i did change the valve gasket once and i do most of the check ups on my car by my self but i think the intake manifold is the first real thing that im gonna do... thanx all /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

 

[surpip]

first thing youl have to pull the valve covers to pull the intake, than take the dist cover off and mark the position of the rotor on the firewall. Pull the dist out. pull the old intake off and replace with new one. I like to put a little dab of gasket sealer on the gaskest to hold them in place, or they make stickey stuff that is designed to do this,Also i use about a 1/4" bead of Gasket Maker on the oil galleys instead of the rubber gaskets provided with the intake. put on the new intake and torque the bolts following the manual. Than rienstall the dist. matching up the marks, you might need to turn the oil pump drive a little with a long flat-head to get it to seat right, than tighten the coller just enough so that you can still turn the Dist. by hand(for to set timing) than just put everything back together SBC firing order is 18436572 1-7 on right side of motor 2-8 on the left as your looking at it from the front of the truck. any questiond feel free to ask /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

 

[cannibal]

hey thans alot man, i just need to ask another question, the edelbrock valve cover i got they have breathers on both on them, so how do i change the oil????

 

[surpip]

should be able to pop the breatheres off pretty easy to fill er up

 

[cannibal]

i thought of this but i thought it was wrong, thanx again man, another idiot question what it is the best oil gauge to use, i use 15/40, should i change this after...

 

[mrk5]

The only think I have to add to surpip, is that you will have to drain your coolant down some. Probably wouldn't hurt to drain the radiator completely and put fresh coolant in. Make sure it's aluminum safe. Most all of them are these days, but better safe than sorry.

Pick up a Chiltons or Haynes manual for your truck. It will cover intake manifold removal and install. Trust me you'll need the manual later. Just make sure to follow the torque specs for your intake, not the cast iron torque.

Actually I bet if you went to Edelbrock's website, you can download instructions.

 

[surpip]

good call on the coolant i forgot that /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif ya a manual rocks really helps if you dont know much /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

 

[hawkeye649]

[ QUOTE ]
i thought of this but i thought it was wrong, thanx again man, another idiot question what it is the best oil gauge to use, i use 15/40, should i change this after...

[/ QUOTE ]

It is suggested to change oil immediately after, and after about 5-10 minutes of run time, for a job like this (intake/heads).
When you have all this stuff off, wash/wipe out whatever you can, and then use oil to try to wash any crunchies down into the oil pan so when you change the oil you will hopefully get them. But obviously try not to send it into the engine, but not everything will come out the "top".
Check out everything you can. If you can vacuume check the valve seals, do it. Check them for lash, or cracked/broken/compressed springs. Abnormal wear, coolant deposites, etc, etc, etc. You know - the kind of treatment you wont get from a shop!!!

 

[diesel4me]

I use an old shop vac to suck all the crud out of the lifter gallery--more than one chevy motor I pulled the intake off had enough dirt and sludge in there so deep you couldnt see the lifters!.Oh yeah,dont forget to drain the radiator first--I saw a newbie take off his intake to change the gaskets without taking any of the radiator and heater hoses off,or draining the coolant(thought he could save time by holding the intake up with his engine crane,and just stuff in the new gaskets)--would have worked,but the coolant squirted into the lifter gallery(about a gallon at least)--he changed the gaskets,and changed the oil,but enough prestone got into the crankcase to make it rap about a week later--the motor didnt last long after that---. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[bigblock44k5]

Lay some clean shop rags in the lifter valley as soon as you pull the intake off. Then take pieces of paper towels and shove them into each of the intake runners(going into the head) so pieces of gasket that you will be scraping off dont fall in there. For reinstallation I like to put a very thing coating of COPPER silicone(oil,coolant,and gas proof) on the entire face of the head and intake. The gaskets will stick in place and you know once your done the gaskets will stay sealed no matter what. I use the rubber end seals, just be sure to put a dab of silicone on the four corners where the rubber and the gasket meet, top and bottom.

ATTENTION!!!! To save yourself another run to the parts store and a headache cause your dying to feel the power increase, check your new intake for any required coolant plugs, vacuum hose nipples, and so forth. There might be more holes than your stocker had or they might be stuck, so you might need more. If you are reusing the plugs, try to get them out with the intake still installed as these will be TIGHT. Dont forget a new waterneck gasket. Stop by the hardware store and pick up some new stainless bolts and washers, will make the installation alot cleaner looking as will a nice shiny chrome waterneck. Any questions feel free.

/forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gifKen