Hi guys. Just bought a 1996 suburban 2500 with a 350. I replaced the starter and now it runs but it sounds like the starter is grinding took it back apart shimed it and now it makes more noise then before. Any advice would be nice.
CK5
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NEED HELP.
- Thread starter 1985 K5 Blazer
- Start date
Either
1. You still have some shimming to do
or
2. The Bendix drive is stuck on the starter and the starter gear is staying engaged. This would mean you got a bad starter
1. You still have some shimming to do
or
2. The Bendix drive is stuck on the starter and the starter gear is staying engaged. This would mean you got a bad starter
Yeah I tried 1 shim so far but I am working on it on the street. And it's in a snow bank so I have to warm up every few minutes.
When the starter is shimmed properly,there should be 1/8" of clearance between the starter drive armature (the round shaft the gear spins on)--and the outer edge of the flywheel teeth...you can use a 1/8" allen wrench to measure the clearance..
That way you can shim it once (if it even needs shims) and be done with it--if it grinds or binds after that,then it has other issues too,like worn or broken teeth on the ring gear,starter armature bent or worn out bushings,etc..
I've had starters that had too much clearance between the shaft and flywheel teeth with no shims at all,and I had to take a coarse file to the starter nose where it bolts up to reduce the distance,taking care not to file it crooked,it has to remain flat and straight..if you take off too much,you can add a shim to make up for it..
That way you can shim it once (if it even needs shims) and be done with it--if it grinds or binds after that,then it has other issues too,like worn or broken teeth on the ring gear,starter armature bent or worn out bushings,etc..
I've had starters that had too much clearance between the shaft and flywheel teeth with no shims at all,and I had to take a coarse file to the starter nose where it bolts up to reduce the distance,taking care not to file it crooked,it has to remain flat and straight..if you take off too much,you can add a shim to make up for it..
Thanks for the help I'll get back under there when I get off tomorrow.
If what "diesel4me" posted doesn't help, I need to ask: what brand is the starter? I've had enough time in the auto parts industry that there are some brands I would steer clear of (ie. anything from AutoZone).
I always use Napa starters. However, I got my solenoid hot once a decade ago and since then, I need to hit the starter a few times before it starts to move. Been too lazy to replace.
I always use Napa starters. However, I got my solenoid hot once a decade ago and since then, I need to hit the starter a few times before it starts to move. Been too lazy to replace.
One engine I had was very fussy about the starters position--after I had to file the mounting surface down to get the proper clearance,when it came time to replace that starter again,I opted to swap the nose off the old one onto the new one,to avoid having to dork around with that one for hours to get it set up right..(I tried bolting the "new" starter up and saw it too ,had way too much clearance and I would have had to file that one to fit too)...
I think a lot of rebuilders swap the wrong noses on rebuilt Chevy starters--ones off a caddy or buick and pontiac look very similar and "will" work in most cases,but some are just different enough to not mesh good with the flywheel..
I've had more than one chevy starter have the two bolts or screws holding the solenoid on the nose back off or even fall out--this lets the solenoid get cockeyed and not want to engage properly,if it moves at all..one dark winter night my '72 K5 refused to crank,when I opened the hood to investigate and try jumping the solenoid,I discovered both of the 1/4" bolts had fallen off !..I clamped the solenoid back on with vise grips and it started,and I drove home ,remembering to NOT shut it off till I got in my driveway...
I think a lot of rebuilders swap the wrong noses on rebuilt Chevy starters--ones off a caddy or buick and pontiac look very similar and "will" work in most cases,but some are just different enough to not mesh good with the flywheel..
I've had more than one chevy starter have the two bolts or screws holding the solenoid on the nose back off or even fall out--this lets the solenoid get cockeyed and not want to engage properly,if it moves at all..one dark winter night my '72 K5 refused to crank,when I opened the hood to investigate and try jumping the solenoid,I discovered both of the 1/4" bolts had fallen off !..I clamped the solenoid back on with vise grips and it started,and I drove home ,remembering to NOT shut it off till I got in my driveway...
So I shimmed it out a little more and now it will not start the truck. So I am going to get one from napa to see if it makes a difference
Well the napa starter now do sent even get close engage the flywheel.
.
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You have to use half of a shim on the outer bolt only (closest to the tire) to move the starter gear inward closer to the flywheel...adding a full shim across both bolts moves the gear farther away from the flywheel..
I've had a few starters that needed a washer used as a shim on the outer bolt--and you have to be very careful torquing down the bolts when only one side is shimmed,its easy to crack the nose because its not sitting flat against the block and has a gap there now...I feel they should make tapered full shims ,having it that way is kinda half arsed,but it works..
I've had a few starters that needed a washer used as a shim on the outer bolt--and you have to be very careful torquing down the bolts when only one side is shimmed,its easy to crack the nose because its not sitting flat against the block and has a gap there now...I feel they should make tapered full shims ,having it that way is kinda half arsed,but it works..
