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Need info on 99 24valve cummins ASAP

Citizen Rider

Citizen Rider

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Ive been looking for a 94-98 12v cummins for my DD/tow rig as my last truck was totaled. So i go to some used dealerships and come along a 99 2500 24valve cummins. ext. cab 4 door, manual, 2wd, 237xxx miles, 1 owner, drove great.

What do i need to look for, this truck is in my price range and looks to be a great truck.

Any problems with the engine?
What transmission is behind it? 5 speed manual what? NV4500?

Please help me out.
 
I know most guys like the 12v P pump styles better, so they can net some cheaper power out of them, with just a little tinkering and little to no money spent. But my father in law has a late 98 24v and it gets along pretty good stock. I'd say that either will make a fine DD/tow rig, so you can't go wrong with either a 12 or 24 valve.
 
mechanical fuel pressure verification at the VP44. never below 5psi. you can tap into the top of the filter canister. Theres 2 1/8" NPT ports. one measures prefilter pressure the other post filter pressure. or at the schrader test port on the side of the IP iself.

put a scanner on it. if it shows a P0216 OR P1688 The VP44 is in imminent danger of failure. lift pump should be relocated to the framerail near the tank, or an aux electric pusher put in series with the stock carter pump.

This is my filter housing. Closest to the center is post filter, outter circle is prefilter. and more than 1 1/2 psi pressure drop across the filter, filter need replacing.

Fuelgauge-2.jpg
 
yup NV4500, 5th gear nut failure. not catastrophic. just loose 5th gear. all others function fine. It may or may not have been updated already. you wont know until you lose it, or actually pull the tailhousing. which is alot of work for nothing really. when you lose it (not if) but when, don't panic, just shift into 4th. and go on about your business. until you get an updated nut and full splined mainshaft kit for it. I did mine nut 2 months ago, but I only did a partial fix on mine.
 
This is what replaceing your VP44 on the side of the road in January looks like. Moneypit can verify :D


Denver005.jpg
 
It will have a NV4500 transmission. Make SURE to use the correct lube for this tranny. Also, check the fuel pressure from the lift pump to the injection pump. The VP44 injection pump used on the 98.5-02 Cummins engine is ONLY lubricated by fuel. If you don't have around 14psi at idle and at least 8psi under full load, you need a AFS Big Dog fuel system from http://wideopendiesel.com/page8.html. The cost is only a little more than a factory replacement and it will supply enough fuel for future performance mods. Expect to replace ball joints, wheel bearings, shocks, and possibly steering links on a truck with that age and those miles. Or, come buy the 2000 2500 4x4 quad cab that I'm selling.
 
Also, a quick reply to TXFireman about adding "cheap power". I put an Edge Juice with Attitude on my '01 HO 6spd. On paper it adds 120 hp/ 350 ft lbs. The attitude monitor takes the place of a full set of gauges and even reads corrected MPH for my tire size increase. It cost $584 and came as a very complete kit. Of course, I also had to increase fuel delivery. I did that with the AFS kit from Wide Open Diesel for a little over $300. I'm not saying that you can't upgrade a 12V cheaper than that, but I feel like I got a huge performance gain for the money. Of course there are exhaust and intake upgrades, but those are pretty much the same regardless of year.
 
I agree with the Walbro 392. or a full FASS if you've got the money.

79beast you can make that kind of power or more for free with a 12v P7100 pump
 
DEMON44 said:
79beast you can make that kind of power or more for free with a 12v P7100 pump
Click to expand...

That's my understanding too. For the record, I don't claim to know much about the Cummings, .. never owned one, probably never will.. but my buddy is into them big time. He owns 3 Dodge trucks with Cummings (2 P pump era), and although his 04 is newer and super nice, aside from being slathered in performance parts, he still like the old P pump styles the best because you can get so much power out of them for free.
 
Citizen Rider said:
Ive been looking for a 94-98 12v cummins for my DD/tow rig as my last truck was totaled. So i go to some used dealerships and come along a 99 2500 24valve cummins. ext. cab 4 door, manual, 2wd, 237xxx miles, 1 owner, drove great.

What do i need to look for, this truck is in my price range and looks to be a great truck.

Any problems with the engine?
What transmission is behind it? 5 speed manual what? NV4500?

Please help me out.
Click to expand...

As already stated, take it to a shop and have it scanned, make sure there are no codes in the computer and if there is report back with them, I can tell you what they are.

Have the same shop put a guage on the shrader valve at the VP44 and find out what kind of pressure you have. You want 13-17psi at idle.

5th gear nut is a universal problem, it happens with the 12v too, and isn't that hard to fix anyway.

With a 24v, you don't have to worry about a killer dowel pin, so thats a plus.

I personally like 24v's better, electronic power is nice as you can have an adjustible box and the trucks themselves are nicer than the 94-97 trucks.

Changing a VP44 is not that bad if it indeed has a problem (it likely doesn't anyway). It's about $1500 for a pump and a shop to do it, not that expensive IMHO when you start looking at what other stuff costs and how much you are already paying for the truck.
 
79Beast said:
Also, a quick reply to TXFireman about adding "cheap power". I put an Edge Juice with Attitude on my '01 HO 6spd. On paper it adds 120 hp/ 350 ft lbs.
Click to expand...
On your HO motor you are actually only getting an extra 90HP on level 5. The 120HP advertised gain is on S.O. trucks like mine, the H.O. trucks have SMALLER injectors and pump plunger than S.O.'s and limits the electronics somewhat.

As far as the Juice, love mine too. Level 6 "drag" is insane.:eek1:
 
txfiremank5 said:
That's my understanding too. For the record, I don't claim to know much about the Cummings, .. never owned one, probably never will.. but my buddy is into them big time. He owns 3 Dodge trucks with Cummings (2 P pump era), and although his 04 is newer and super nice, aside from being slathered in performance parts, he still like the old P pump styles the best because you can get so much power out of them for free.
Click to expand...

There is no "G" in Cummins.....;)
 
I'd like to know more of the differences between the 215/235/245 horse Cummins engines. The people at Edge told me that the box added the advertised horsepower on top of what you already had, regardless of where you start...but Banks claims percentage gains are less on higher output engines, but final power numbers will be that same. Also, tell me about the Hot Unlock code. I haven't purchased it, but I've thought about it. It seems to me that the limiting factory for me is #1 getting air into the engine, #2 shifting fast enough, #3 running out of rev's with 4.10 gears.

I don't see any point in spending the $$ on the FASS. I haven't actually seen one in person, but I've seem the prices for the unit and for the replacement filters. I'm not claiming that my Walbro 392 is the best ever, but the Big Dog kit uses 1/2" fuel line from the tank, through the factory filter using high flow fittings, through more 1/2" line into the injection pump. Also, the Big Dog kit uses a really nice wiring harness which uses the factory lift pump power wire to signal a relay to power the pump. My experience is that a brand new factory lift pump put out 14 psi at idle, but would drop to 4 psi under throttle with my Juice set to level 3. The Big Dog idles and cruises at 18 psi and will momentarily drop to 17 psi before coming right back to 18 with the Juice cranked up all the way up.

How do you make massive power for free on the 12V engine? I know that you can move the fuel rack stop plate to allow more rack travel, but I thought that was a limited gain without installing a new stop plate. Also, you can adjust the low boost fueling with the star wheel, but that's just a responsiveness adjustment, not a full load or full torque adjustment.

I'm not being smart, I'm just ignorant of these things and I would like to learn.
 
Search the side of the engine block from underneith for the number 53 cast into the block. If the number 53 is there walk way. The blocks are prone to cracking through the waterjackets. The number often hides behind the engine wiring harness on the drivers side or by the oil filter on the passenger side.

Also the KDP can be an issue. There is a small dowel pin behind the timing cover that can vibrate loose and get jambed in the timing cover and crack it. If it is not leaking alot of oil then it is ok, but you may want to add the KDP kit to it if you buy it. It is like $50 and takes the better part of a day to install.

Liftpump fuel pressure above 10psi @ idle & above 5psi at WOT is necessary too. If the numbers are below 8PSI at WOT then the liftpump is going bad. I have the Walbro GFS from Glacier & it is a great system. I have a 98.5 with 130K and it runs great.

Harley
 
I've got 1/2" Goodyear gator-grip fuel line from tank to VP$$, no banjo bolts, no stock restrictive hardlines. I've got a 53 block, they are prone to cracking on the jacket line, I'm not worryed about it. I currently dyno 330hp to the rear wheels and I drive the fu(#!ng SH!t out of it every day, no problems to report. In the next couple weeks the 150 horse sticks and twins go on, I'll let you know if it cracks.

Now the 53 block isn't the end of the world if it cracks. life will go on as normal, you just have to top coolant up every now and again. until you decide if and what you want to do about it.

FASS has an air separator in it, which is a very good thing for life of the VP44. Now I'm not an advocate of the FASS but if you have the bucks its not a bad option. I prefer the walbro with a full flow by-pass.

KDP is not an issue with 24v engines, the covers were updated to blind holes.

Clamp your wastegate shut. pull your fuel plate out of the pump, take a grinder and grind it flat. you now have a zero plate. re-install full forward, AFC star wheel full in, install a couple washers under the governor springs for a custom 4K governor kit. I promise you will toast your stock clutch or stock auto in no time flat. AND if you want to spring a couple hundred, buy a set of 191 or lazer cut delivery valves...............you better have an EGT guage.
 
Thanks alot for the help guys, i really appreciate it.

Alot of whats been said, mainly upgrades is total giberish to me. Diesel is a whole new thing to me.

Im gonna go out there tomorrow and check over the block #, have the VP44 checked over and pressure checked, scan computer codes.

What does the AFS Big Dog fuel system replace exactly? http://wideopendiesel.com/page8.html
 
you want it to go, tank to vp44 inlet. with at least 3/8s line. and new fittings to replace the 5 banjo bolts. banjos are crapola in a fuel system IMHO.

That big dog sounds very much like the Vulcan fuel system. very effective fuel delivery solution for our 2nd gen 24valvers
 
DEMON44 said:
you want it to go, tank to vp44 inlet. with at least 3/8s line. and new fittings to replace the 5 banjo bolts. banjos are crapola in a fuel system IMHO.

That big dog sounds very much like the Vulcan fuel system. very effective fuel delivery solution for our 2nd gen 24valvers
Click to expand...

Like i said, i dont know jack about diesel. So with that said...

I agree, banjo bolts dont sound like a very good fuel delivery component. But whats got my mind questioning is what exactly the say Big dog or Vulcan fuel system replace, or does it replace anything?

So basicly im trying to figure out, what is it that causes the low fuel pressure and what fixes it before expensive failure occurs.
 
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