Need input on buying a Part

[Metrodps]

OK here it is as some of you know I have started to stock pile N.O.S. GM Sheet metal for my next tear down and repair of other truck I may buy. I have come across a N.O.S. complete rear floor deck panel for the Blazer. Now shipping is not a problem as I have a friend who lives just a wee bit away and drives truck from the area to my area.

The question is what is a reasonable price for the panel? I know it is what ever I am willing to pay for it *smart grasses*. But what would some of you pay for one like it? Thanks guys.

 

[TheAustrian]

LMC price is $ 240 for all three sheets to make the complete floor like the one you could get. Considering you can save time and money as you would not need to weld this one piece floor...

 

[Metrodps]

Well I am in a bind for money due to a problem so that is why I am asking what you all think it is worth. The fenders and hood I have are hide in a safe place climate controled.

 

[TheAustrian]

Well I am in a bind for money due to a problem so that is why I am asking what you all think it is worth. The fenders and hood I have are hide in a safe place climate controled.

well...if I'd need it, I'd pay the full price, no doubt. But if I'd be short I'd try to squeeze the price as much as possible, maybe I'd try $ 100,- if he agree you shot a nice piece...my opinion.

 

[ryoken]

pretty rare piece there... certainly a superior way to the 3 piece, thinner stuff...

I'd drop 2 bills on that in a heartbeat if i needed one...

 

[bear76]

I would love to have that! Because of the easy factor I'd pay 250 easy.

BTW, That part # does not show on gmpartsdirect. Does anyone know where to get this (other than his)?

 

[Metrodps]

They no longer make it it is discontinued part as with most of our sheet metal!

 

[goldwing2000]

Ooooo... me likey! I'll arm wrestle ya for it!!

 

[Metrodps]

Need to rob someone

The guy said he wants $500.00 for it. Which I would pay in a flash if I had that much extra money. I guess I need to try to sell some things on eBay.

Anyone interested in a 1960 model female, low mileage mother of three?

Good natured, obedient loving and deadly with a fry pan

 

[goldwing2000]

Yeah, $500 is a little spendy. I'm only looking at $300 worth of material to put 1/8" diamond-plate floors and rocker knockers on mine.

 

[Metrodps]

Yeah, I'm only looking.... at.... knockers

 

[dyeager535]

You know, that sheetmetal is probably only worth anywhere near that much money on the east coast.

None of these trucks is like a '69 Z28 numbers matching Camaro. They aren't worth "restoring" because they'll never (well, in the near future anyway) be worth enough to spend tons of money on just for clean metal. If the bodies rotted, spend the time to find a clean one, go west if you have to. Plenty of non-rusty bodies around. I paid $400 for an entire *tub*. I'd have to say the amount of work for a floor section that size would be better spent getting another rig or body.

Just my opinion. I love OEM parts, especially disco'd stuff, but prices like he's asking are ridiculous when the trucks are still all over the place. (even if not in your exact area) The AZ guys make me sick with their 30 year old sheetmetal.

 

[Metrodps]

dy I think you missed the point. I do not need it now but in the years ahead YOU won't be able to find them. This is why I am buying the pieces now.

Here is what my rear rust is like. Also the GM one has the tail pan with it!

 

[bear76]

I didn't see any rust. Just take a wire wheel to it and prime and paint. Then e-mail the guys info to me .

 

[gmc4cw]

that amount of rust is nothing. I need that panel. my rust goes from the back to about a foot in.

 

[goldwing2000]

lmao @ selective editing.

Here is what my rear rust is like. Also the GM one has the tail pan with it!

Yours looks just like mine! And I'm definitely not even considering replacing the whole floor pan. Just a strip across the back and call it good!

 

[dyeager535]

dy I think you missed the point. I do not need it now but in the years ahead YOU won't be able to find them. This is why I am buying the pieces now.
Here is what my rear rust is like. Also the GM one has the tail pan with it!

Well, if you get/make a good body now, and are religious about rinsing it when they use salt on the roads, and come up with some underbody protection, there should be no reason to even NEED that sheetmetal. Even if you do need it, if you think LONG term like I do, what do you do once you use THAT piece?

Only thing I'm saying is, I wouldn't feel bad "missing out" on that thing for $500. $10, yeah, I'd get it, but never plan on needing it.

The reason they rust out back there (IMO) is mainly because there is no wheelwell or underbody protection there. Come up with some shields so the dirt and water don't get thrown into the rear floorplate area, and that rust problem will disappear. Made similar for the front of the rear wheelwell for my truck, and no junk gets back there where they like to rot. I'll be making rear ones as well, to keep the junk off the tire out of the tailgate hinge area.

 

[fireplug]

Yeah, I have to agree, it will be a long time (if ever) before the sheet metal is worth $500. There are still waaay too many clean tubs out there. And there just isn't enough historical value in these rigs. It's easy to get pumped about the idea of a completely rust free rig, but I think you really have to think about the value of that. Especially if it's a dd, and ESPECIALLY if you are in the snow belt.

 

[JEBSR]

Has everyone missed the fact that that is not just the sheet metal? If you notice, all the floor braces and the rear tail panel brace that the tailgate mounts to is there as well. Those pieces alone in aftermarket prices would be 500.00. This is a GM piece so no mods needed. Unless you have a perfiect tub readily availible that is a very good price (for an original piece anyway).

 

[fireplug]

You have a point, still if I lived in the land of southern rust free trucks, I would never even consider body work ever again!