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Need input on Carburetor

The cap is rated at 16 psi, I was going to 11, so I should be safe on that leaking I would think? But I might use a compressor and take it to 13.. I was also thinking i would run it with pressure gauge in place and see what the psi gets up to, so I have a reference point. If it’s a tiny crack and doesn’t leak until 14 psi, but the system runs at 15 psi then my backyard setup may not be working. I ordered a leak down tester and combustion gas tester for the radiator, should be here in a day or two. Hopefully I’ll have the answers I’m looking for sooner rather than later
 
I wouldn't worry so much about pressure testing. The result will be inconclusive. Do the block check, then we'll know which direction to go pass or fail.
 
Well block test failed, I was squeezing the bulb and the fluid was staying blue for a few moments, the bulb started staying compressed when I squeezed it, but then it burped air into device and turned green, burped more air and turned yellow. The weird thing is I could hear the engine have a slight hiccup everytime the bubbles entered the syringe.. guess I’ll give jasper a call
 
HawK5 said:
Well block test failed, I was squeezing the bulb and the fluid was staying blue for a few moments, the bulb started staying compressed when I squeezed it, but then it burped air into device and turned green, burped more air and turned yellow. The weird thing is I could hear the engine have a slight hiccup everytime the bubbles entered the syringe.. guess I’ll give jasper a call
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I Wish you luck with jasper. If you were not the original purchaser, i doubt they will honor any warranty. Jasper is known for fast lining cheap junk. They only fix what a core might need, I had 1 with issues. loss of oil pressure. when we tore the engine down, mis matched rods, 1 cylinder was .030 over, the rest all std. different piston in the oversized hole.. But bearings were wiped. denied any claim, even though the guy had done oil changes every 2,500 or less!
 
bablazer73 said:
I Wish you luck with jasper. If you were not the original purchaser, i doubt they will honor any warranty. Jasper is known for fast lining cheap junk. They only fix what a core might need, I had 1 with issues. loss of oil pressure. when we tore the engine down, mis matched rods, 1 cylinder was .030 over, the rest all std. different piston in the oversized hole.. But bearings were wiped. denied any claim, even though the guy had done oil changes every 2,500 or less!
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My experience has been similar
 
Yeah after talking to a couple shops, I was leaning towards just buying heads and doing it myself. However maybe that’s not a good plan as it sounds like they’re known for putting together crappy short blocks too? maybe I just need to rethink the power plant all together. In the mean time, short term, anyone have any experience with bars leak or similar products that won’t clog or ruin the cooling system components?
 
HawK5 said:
I have a new Jasper 350 with mild cam in my 1980 Jimmy, it’s got a 6” lift and 35s, sm465, and will soon have 4.56s, tires will eventually be bigger.
Previous owner had motor installed by a local chain that is notorious for poor work. They told him the carb needed to be rebuilt but that’s all I know. The carb is a Holley Truck Avenger 670 and seems to be having
a couple issues:
1. the electric choke works when it is cold but randomly kicks on when it is warm, I have disassembled and reassembled a couple of times and I think the tab that goes into the electric wound coil keeps coming out.
2. It occasionally diesels or has run on when I turn the truck off.
3. It smells rich and seems to have a flat spot in the middle of the power band.
Should I A: rebuild it and replace the electric choke with a manual. ($100)
Or B replace the whole carb with Edelbrock AVS 2 off road (part# 1915) ($500)
From what I’ve read reviews are all over the map. I intend to do all kinds of wheeling and running around town, sometimes I drive 100 miles on the hwy to get to my wheeling spots, so mpg is also important, not concerned with max HP, just enough for merging on to Hwy or the occasional heavy footed wheeling.
Fuel injection is out of my price range for now, so I’m curious what you guys think I should do. Rebuild the truck avenger or swap to an off road avs2 eddy.
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I have the truck avenger 670 and it seems to do ok. It runs rich absolutely nothing can be done with that. It climbs hills awesomely, but I can’t get it to perform until I get on it initially, but once the fuel is there, it’s a lot fun. I had the Edelbrock 750, on and man, everything was perfect until I climbed a hill, then it ran out of gas. Couldn’t seem to get any real good response how to fix that, even with an electric fuel pump. I tried electric and manual pumps.
 
HawK5 said:
I have a new Jasper 350 with mild cam in my 1980 Jimmy, it’s got a 6” lift and 35s, sm465, and will soon have 4.56s, tires will eventually be bigger.
Previous owner had motor installed by a local chain that is notorious for poor work. They told him the carb needed to be rebuilt but that’s all I know. The carb is a Holley Truck Avenger 670 and seems to be having
a couple issues:
1. the electric choke works when it is cold but randomly kicks on when it is warm, I have disassembled and reassembled a couple of times and I think the tab that goes into the electric wound coil keeps coming out.
2. It occasionally diesels or has run on when I turn the truck off.
3. It smells rich and seems to have a flat spot in the middle of the power band.
Should I A: rebuild it and replace the electric choke with a manual. ($100)
Or B replace the whole carb with Edelbrock AVS 2 off road (part# 1915) ($500)
From what I’ve read reviews are all over the map. I intend to do all kinds of wheeling and running around town, sometimes I drive 100 miles on the hwy to get to my wheeling spots, so mpg is also important, not concerned with max HP, just enough for merging on to Hwy or the occasional heavy footed wheeling.
Fuel injection is out of my price range for now, so I’m curious what you guys think I should do. Rebuild the truck avenger or swap to an off road avs2 eddy.
Click to expand...
HawK5 said:
I have a new Jasper 350 with mild cam in my 1980 Jimmy, it’s got a 6” lift and 35s, sm465, and will soon have 4.56s, tires will eventually be bigger.
Previous owner had motor installed by a local chain that is notorious for poor work. They told him the carb needed to be rebuilt but that’s all I know. The carb is a Holley Truck Avenger 670 and seems to be having
a couple issues:
1. the electric choke works when it is cold but randomly kicks on when it is warm, I have disassembled and reassembled a couple of times and I think the tab that goes into the electric wound coil keeps coming out.
2. It occasionally diesels or has run on when I turn the truck off.
3. It smells rich and seems to have a flat spot in the middle of the power band.
Should I A: rebuild it and replace the electric choke with a manual. ($100)
Or B replace the whole carb with Edelbrock AVS 2 off road (part# 1915) ($500)
From what I’ve read reviews are all over the map. I intend to do all kinds of wheeling and running around town, sometimes I drive 100 miles on the hwy to get to my wheeling spots, so mpg is also important, not concerned with max HP, just enough for merging on to Hwy or the occasional heavy footed wheeling.
Fuel injection is out of my price range for now, so I’m curious what you guys think I should do. Rebuild the truck avenger or swap to an off road avs2 eddy.
Click to expand...
Also, there is a tiny little screw on left side, under the carb plate, that is a secondary choke or throttle adjustment. It’s a set screw but and is a flat driver head. I switched it out with an alan head, so I could use an alen wrench to adjust it, and that helped some. It’s not in any of the carb books, which is interesting. I found a video on YouTube where a guy used it to adjust the idle.
 
I do not recommend any type of stop leak. Stop leak is for coolant leaks, not for stopping compression into cooling system. None of my recommendations will be painless. 1 buy a running 350 and swap it fastest solution. 2 new heads and head gaskets. 3 pull engine tear it down and repair Jasper's Fubars new heads and have radiator rod'ed or cored for all 3 options
 
Wes Harden said:
I do not recommend any type of stop leak. Stop leak is for coolant leaks, not for stopping compression into cooling system. None of my recommendations will be painless. 1 buy a running 350 and swap it fastest solution. 2 new heads and head gaskets. 3 pull engine tear it down and repair Jasper's Fubars new heads and have radiator rod'ed or cored for all 3 options
Click to expand...
Wes Harden said:
I do not recommend any type of stop leak. Stop leak is for coolant leaks, not for stopping compression into cooling system. None of my recommendations will be painless. 1 buy a running 350 and swap it fastest solution. 2 new heads and head gaskets. 3 pull engine tear it down and repair Jasper's Fubars new heads and have radiator rod'ed or cored for all 3 options
Click to expand...
Probably a good used motor do just fine.
 
Yeah I was wondering if stop leak would work since exhaust gases are coming in under pressure vs coolant leaking out, although coolant is leaking into cylinder 4 as noted by the wet plug, and excessive moisture from the left tail pipe, and constantly lowering coolant level.. I also don’t want to ruin the heater core, radiator, water pump or worse create cooling issues in the block if I decide to stick with it.
And Yes, a good complete running engine is one option, SBC, LS, BBC, hell even considered a Cummins.. if it was a known good motor and the price was right. But in the absence of that I’ll probably do heads and check the block.
Wes why would the radiator need to be reworked? Do the exhaust gasses cause some kind of breakdown?
 
is precaution. Why did the damage happen, is it running hot ? Don't want to put new heads and a bunch of of dollars and trust the radiator is up the task. Esp if is 5 or more years old. I'd at least look at the tubes from the filler see if any white crusty build up. and check the header for green fuzz (brass) If aluminum then white fuzz. If you see any of that have it redone or replaced.

20210316_181835.jpg

this radiator is just staring to show corrosion iirc it is 10 years old in this picture
 
Oh ok, yeah the engine has never been over 200, not since I’ve owned it, in fact I’ve always thought it run cooler than I expected. But I’ll make sure the radiator is good regardless of what direction I go
 
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