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Need input on custom exhaust

AlphaVictorTango

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Pulled my motor last weekend and was looking for some exhaust guidance. Passenger side manifold was cracked in two. So I'd like to run new stainless tubing from a set of ebay special shorty headers into a 3" flex joint, then a 3" high flow cat then I'm thinking flowmaster delta 50 3" in and out. My questions mainly concern piping diameter from the header collector to the 2 into 1 y-collector I'll put before the flex joint. Will 2 1/2 piping be enough for both sides if I merge it into a nice flowing single 3 in cat back?
Due to budget, this motor will not be making nearly as much power as I was hoping and probably never will. Just a mild cam and some TB flow enhancements. As always thanks for all the good advice and great ideas I'm sure I'll get.
 
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I think stock is 2.5" into 3", so you should be good.

Others will say that you will regret buying cheap headers. I have no experience. Also, those headers look to be for an IFS style 350, not the 88-91 style.

Post 7 and 8 show what i did, with sound sample on those 50's.

You'll like them.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260975
 
read brians stuff on tbi mods and cam pics and his chips to get it to run right. www.tbichips.com

and dont rule out a cheep used stock lt1 roller cam with parts to swap in to your block for good bang for the buck and power.

you need to notch the driver side frame rail a little to clean the 88-up shorty headers.

then get a plug or weld the o2 hole shut.

then get a new universal o2 bung and weld it in the system.

i would run a nice flowmaster 2.5" inlet to 3" outlet for building a nice y pipe. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLO-Y250300/

then a single muffler like flowmaster i think sounds much better than 2. i have had both on same truck and like single better.

check ebay for good lightly used flowmasters cheep. i get them when i need them for 30-40 bucks shipped. ver - 90-100 new. and thay are like new or just not in the box.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Flow...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9e75c117


also if you run a o2 sensor and want a new one . get the 3 wire and upgrade as this will work better and you can place it farther down the line for easy install.

search 3 wire o2 and there is writeups or links with info and part #'s

good luck.
 
DHComp: Your truck sounds really nice. I hope to come close to that with mine. Everything about your truck is real clean. As for the IFS headers I think I can make them work and they are cheap and stainless. I will keep you all informed.

SweetK30: In the last few weeks I have spent hours pouring over Brians web-site. Lots of good stuff. I do not want to run a used cam and don't want to shell out $600 for a roller set-up. NorthernAutoParts.com has a rebuild kit that looks decent for $3-$400ish. With the Speed Pro 1500-4000 RPM cam I will at least have a good fresh motor to start with. That y collector looks nice but I'm trying to go all stainless. What a smoking deal on a flowmaster though. Thanks!
 
just be aware that you wont get NEARLY the performance from a shorty that you'd get from a long tube, or even a tri-y...


also not to discourage you but i'm one of those guys that'll preach "you get what you pay for" with headers... cheap headers are generally problematic... ESPECIALLY in a stainless header... stainless ones are prone to crack to begin with, throw in cheap, and i'd bet those wont hold up too well...

this all coming from a guy who has been wanting to do stainless on his instead of a ceramic if i can... might be worth saving up a bit and going for some TES's, or even the SS Hookers i'm planning on...
 
i scored a great clean used roller cam / lifters / spider / lifter plates on 3rdgen board for about 100 shipped. the thing was super clean and lifters were like new.

thing is with roller cams thay dont realy go bad like flat tapet cams. and thay are free hp also.

and as to deal on the flowmasters i generaly see what the new one goes for. then pay under 1/2 with shipping when the auction is done.
 

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