Need input

[mallardchandler]

I'm sure this has been answered before, I'm just having trouble finding a solid answer. I've searched thru all of the "what will this lift look like on this truck" and have seen the setup I want, the only think I can find is if it can be done with out trimming.

The plan: '78 Jimmy, 6" roughcountry lift. site says the recommended tire is 37x13.50. I was planning on running 35x12.50. Will that work without trimming? I will lift the body before I trim.

Since this is my first build I am open to any thoughts/suggestions/advice.
you will be rewarded with plenty of pics when I start my build thread.

 

[nvrenuf]

It kind of depends on what wheels you run. If you use a wide rim (12"+) then it will rub some on a turn/bump (like a driveway or parking lot), a narrower rim will help avoid this.

This is a pic of my old '91 crew cab that had a 6" lift w/ 35" BFG's on 12" rims. It rubbed in a turn like I described but I typically drove it like an old man so it never tore up the fenders, just a slight bend in the lip at the very bottom.

I miss this truck...

 

[sweetk30]

and why rough country ? thay are about the stiffest ridin kits out there.

tough country or bds are the 2 best ridin kits.

i would do 6" front. then 2.5" flip and 4" springs or 4" flip and 3" springs or block if cheep kit for now. this will help get the rear blazer sag out of the back. and the flip kit makes them ride sooooomuch better.

6" with 35" on 10" rim will be good combo and mabye just a small amount od contact at full stuff .

check the condition of your body mounts. if thay look bad swap them for new. and mabye a 1" body lift like the kit ord sells.

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/oneinchlift.htm

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/bodymounts.htm

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/TuffCountry.htm

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm

 

[K5dreamer]

no experience myself with the lift and massive tires yet. but my factory lift, with sagging-bent-the-wrong-way front springs fit 33in tires with no rub. stands to reason a 6in lift would allow a 3in larger diameter tire with the same results. so you should be able to safely run 36in tires, so your 35's should be fine.

 

[swettysblazer]

I run a 4 inch lift with 35's, you'll be able to clear 35's with a 6 no problem

 

[mallardchandler]

Not really worried about the ride. I've got a 2008 Z71 if I want a smooth ride.
roughcountry because of the price. Blocks in the rear with furure plans to get the ORD shackle flip. ORD body lift or zero rates to get that little extra if the tires needed it.
I saw a set of front springs in the classifieds, if the guy would ever get back to me, i could do this a lot cheaper. I don't mind buying random parts and building this thing on a frankenlift.

thanks for the input

 

[mallardchandler]

Other than ride, is there a reason a person would want stiffer/softer springs?

 

[Stomis]

Other than ride, is there a reason a person would want stiffer/softer springs?

Flex. But sounds like you dont need any of that.

 

[sweetk30]

and there is no factory lift .

thay come with flat springs and over the years go to neg arch.

 

[K5dreamer]

no factory lift? what about a lift using factory parts???

52's up front and home made shackle flip

and yeah, my front springs are currently frowing under the strain of the diesel engine. before i knew better i went offroading like that, my buddy informed me that was a very bad idea.

 

[mallardchandler]

I don't mind buying random parts and building this thing on a frankenlift.

thanks for the input

I think you missread frankenlift.

I called and got a quote from ORD. using thier stuff for a 6" lift will cost almost double what the roughcountry cost. I know the quality is better with ord, but I don't think my wallet can handle that at the moment. The wif has got me on a budget, if I spend it all on lift, then I will be rolling around on 31x10.5...

 

[K5dreamer]

one other caviat, have you priced out custom driveshafts for your 6in lift? and extended brake lines? and all that jazz?

if you want to run 35's, you should be able to get away with a 4in lift, which retains stock brake lines and driveshafts. and you could do the super cheap but labor demanding 52s (or just 4in lift springs) in front, and shackle flip out rear. course with the 52's comes crossover steering and all that jazz.

 

[mallardchandler]

The setup I priced from ORD and Roughcountry both had extended brake lines. The drivelines slipped my mind. I would have figured it out eventually.

so... about those drivelines. how much tolerance do I have to play with? Worst case, my dad knows a guy in AR that can build me some...

 

[sweetk30]

fyi you dont have to buy from ord to get tuff country.

and ya thats right 6" on a blazer will be driveshaft mods bigtime. if you want perfect might need c/v shaft in the rear.

before you spend the cash do lots of readin here. we have helped hundreds over the years to be on the correct path with no problems.

 

[blazinzuk]

I would go 4" and ez inches, move that front axle forward a bit and it alleviates alot of the rubbing issues.

Why softer springs. Its easier on the truck. It really is, when the springs don't do their job, the frame gets the shock transferred to it. The bushings get hammered.

The stiffer springs just cause more issues in the long run than do softer springs.

I have priced the rough country stuff vs, tuff country and it didn't seem like a big difference in price to me

 

[sweetk30]

yep thats a good one. 4" lift with zero rates on the front and move the axle forward. then the rear back just a bit to center it .

that will work great.

forgot about zero rates / ez inch .

 

[mallardchandler]

ok... so if i go that path, I don't have to mod the driveline?

 

[sweetk30]

you might have to . some do with 4" on blazers. its the short wheel base.