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Need instructions for axle seal replacement. (please)

78 GMC Jimmy

1/2 ton status
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So its a 78 K5 with a semi-float 8 lug.

Diff fluid is coming out of the brake drum. I assume that the brake shoes are soaked. Flings oil all over the inner fender. Also works GREAT for keeping people from tail-gating me. But anyway, I should replace the seal. I assume that I just take those bolts off of the end of the rear axle, and slide the axle shaft out, carefully pop out the oil seal, and then beat a new seal into place using the largest sledge hammer (or jack hammer) that I can find, then put the axle shaft back in and then replace the bolts? Is that all there is to it? No need to pull the diff cover to remove any C-clips or anything?

On a side note, I would probably replace the brake shoes and de-grease the drum, check the wheel cylinder for leaks, etc. Do I need to replace the shoes on both sides, the same way that you would with disk brake pads, or can shoes be replaced on one side only?

8 lug, semi-float, standard diff, 14 bolt.
 
1- axles are c clip
2- drive the new seal in with a block of wood
3- I do shoes in sets. They work evenly that way, and wear evenly
 
So its a 78 K5 with a semi-float 8 lug.

Diff fluid is coming out of the brake drum. I assume that the brake shoes are soaked. Flings oil all over the inner fender. Also works GREAT for keeping people from tail-gating me. But anyway, I should replace the seal. I assume that I just take those bolts off of the end of the rear axle, and slide the axle shaft out, carefully pop out the oil seal, and then beat a new seal into place using the largest sledge hammer (or jack hammer) that I can find, then put the axle shaft back in and then replace the bolts? Is that all there is to it? No need to pull the diff cover to remove any C-clips or anything?

On a side note, I would probably replace the brake shoes and de-grease the drum, check the wheel cylinder for leaks, etc. Do I need to replace the shoes on both sides, the same way that you would with disk brake pads, or can shoes be replaced on one side only?

8 lug, semi-float, standard diff, 14 bolt.
Hold the phone - as Bent said the semi-floater 14-bolt 9.5” is a c-clip rear axle but according to the pics you posted on a previous post you have a 10.5” FULL-FLOATER 14-Bolt rear axle.
Ya gotta keep these things straight or you are gonna get conflicting information when you ask about two very different rear axles.

Did you swap out the rear axle since that other post ?

Give us another pic and we can confirm and tell you exactly what you have.
 
Hold the phone - as Bent said the semi-floater 14-bolt 9.5” is a c-clip rear axle but according to the pics you posted on a previous post you have a 10.5” FULL-FLOATER 14-Bolt rear axle.
Ya gotta keep these things straight or you are gonna get conflicting information when you ask about two very different rear axles.

Did you swap out the rear axle since that other post ?

Give us another pic and we can tell you exactly what you have.

No, same axle as before. I switch from Vodka to Rum though, that might be the trouble.

I thought that someone in my other post said I have a semi-float, I'm almost positive.

So your saying I have a "10.5” FULL-FLOATER 14-Bolt rear axle"?

If that's the case, how would I go about changing the seal?
 
No, same axle as before. I switch from Vodka to Rum though, that might be the trouble.

I thought that someone in my other post said I have a semi-float, I'm almost positive.

So your saying I have a "10.5” FULL-FLOATER 14-Bolt rear axle"?

If that's the case, how would I go about changing the seal?
The actual seal installation is very much as Bent described but getting to it is different because the seal is located on the inner part of the removable hub as the semi-floater axle the seal is on the outer tube end.

Post up a few pics and we will confirm for you.
 
I will take your work for it. So I do have to pull the diff cover?
Ya gotta pull the bolts holding the axle to the hub first - this will reveal the two lock nuts retaining the hub to the spindle.
Once those are removed the hub can be taken off - it will include the drum and all this is fairly heavy so be prepared.

It’s similar to taking a front hub off.

This would be a great time to consult a repair manual.

IMG_3996.png
This is just a generic pic of a full float rear hub but it gives you an idea of what it looks like.
 
Last edited:
10 bolt front

14ff rear NON - SEMI FLOAT

ditch the wheel spacers can cause more problems than worth .

as said do shoes in sets and also axle seals in sets ..

make sure no extra RTV or sealer in thread holes on hub for axle flange or when you snug down the bolts you WILL blow out the hub body and have problems .

if you have done these over and over and over maybe 1-2 hr's with all the tolls and skill .
 
Ya gotta pull the bolts holding the axle to the hub first - this will reveal the two lock nuts retaining the hub to the spindle.
Once those are removed the hub can be taken off - it will include the drum and all this is fairly heavy so be prepared.

It’s similar to taking a front hub off.

This would be a great time to consult a repair manual.

View attachment 475229
This is just a generic pic of a full float rear hub but it gives you an idea of what it looks like.
early was 2 nut and bend over tab lock . . . newer was 1 nut with clip and key tab to pull .
 
early was 2 nut and bend over tab lock . . . newer was 1 nut with clip and key tab to pull .
True - but judging by the pics it shows an older housing so I just went with a description of what might still be there and used when that axle was made.

Didn’t want to put too much info out there yet as he is still trying to grasp the whole “what axle do I have” thing.
Were gonna need to go over the retaining hardware options and better hub seals with him once he goes to the parts store and they ask what these axles came out of…
 
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