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Need more heat

C

CHEVYDADDY

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 12, 2008
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Location
BARDSTOWN KY
I have a 85 K5 blazer 350 0.40 over brand new heater core but littler to no heat? any ideas are do the suck on heat? I have 1 row alum raditor could this be the problem? heater hose starts at in take and goes to bottom line on heater core and top line of heater core goes to raditor.
 
I had the heater in my K20 hooked up that way (one to intake, other to radiator), took forever to get heat out of it. Switched it so it was one to the intake and one to the water pump...now I can have heat in a few minutes. If that doesnt help you, maybe try blocking some of the radiator so it doesnt overcool the motor.
 
i know, dumb question, but: is your coolant level full?

if your radiator is over-cooling, check your T-stat. putting something up to block air flow to the radiator is just masking over a different problem, likely with the Tstat.
 
colbystephens said:
i know, dumb question, but: is your coolant level full?

if your radiator is over-cooling, check your T-stat. putting something up to block air flow to the radiator is just masking over a different problem, likely with the Tstat.
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coolent is full and ready for the cold thinking about going for the t-stat
 
shaun89 said:
wow...i have the same problem and i never thought of changing the position of the hoses:rolleyes: thanks!:bow:
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the hose were in the same setup on my 305 i blew so i guess there right. My understanding is the intake is the supply for the heater core (upper line) and the lower is dumping in the raditor so i dont know if its changed are not.
 
CHEVYDADDY said:
the hose were in the same setup on my 305 i blew so i guess there right. My understanding is the intake is the supply for the heater core (upper line) and the lower is dumping in the raditor so i dont know if its changed are not.
Click to expand...


My thinking is that the intake would be the return for the heater core, as would the hose going to the radiator. The only way the hot water would get into the core would be through heat transfer...since there wouldn't be much presure at either end. With one hooked to the water pump, water would be flowing regardless if the thermostat was open or not. I could be wrong though. I know in my case, switching the hoses helped out allot. It might not make a differance in yours.
 
toomany said:
My thinking is that the intake would be the return for the heater core, as would the hose going to the radiator. The only way the hot water would get into the core would be through heat transfer...since there wouldn't be much presure at either end. With one hooked to the water pump, water would be flowing regardless if the thermostat was open or not. I could be wrong though. I know in my case, switching the hoses helped out allot. It might not make a differance in yours.
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to get it stright you think one hose needs to come from the water pump to the upper heater core line and the bottom heater core line still dumps in the raditor?:confused:
 
the hoses are two different sizes, the one coming OFF of the back of the intake, goes TO the heater core, taking heat FROM the motor and giving it to you, then coming out of the heater core to the radiator.

This is the way mine is hooked up from the factory and the heat is overwhelming.


I'm thinkin it's a 5/8 hose from the intake to the heater core, and 3/4 from the heater core to the radiator. Can't remember the sizes right off.

you can run the hose from the heater core to the water pump if you don't have the port on the radiator...

running a 195 t-stat SHOULD give you adequate heat, if not, some have said to put cardboard in front of the radiator, DO NOT put it right up against the radiator, put it in front of the grille, so that the radiator can still get air flow from the fan when it's needed.

guess i should have rephrased this,

edited...
 
Last edited:
Make sure the door on the heater box is opening completely to the heat side and closing off the vent under the dash. You can drop the glove compartment down and see which linkage (door) moves when you adjust from cool to heat. When you determine that, remove the linkage from the top and make sure the door moved as far as it can in that direction.

My linkage was misadjusted and my heat did not work well at all.
 
Y'all don't understand how the heater core works. There is full pressure from the manifold by the t stat. On an auto truck, the heater core returns right over the tranny cooler. My thought is that if water is slightly low the for will still cool tranny. On manuals there is no cooler so no return in radiator. If heat sucks then you should try confirming Tempe. Make sure when gauge says 195 the upper hose gets hot. Also, since the manifold is behind the tstat, the 5/8 hose should warm up with the engine. On the water pump return, I never tried it, never needed to improve. If both hoses are hot, then you got flow. Check linkages like said above. Hope ya get it figured out.
 
Kenny78 said:
Y'all don't understand how the heater core works. .
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hey, thanks for telling me i dont know sh!t about these trucks, and thank you for teaching me what i needed to know about the heating system of my truck.

There a two ways of hooking up the hoses, as have already been mentioned PRIOR to your nice comment.

guess i need to go back to school and read more books. :rolleyes:
 
4xcrazy said:
hey, thanks for telling me i dont know sh!t about these trucks, and thank you for teaching me what i needed to know about the heating system of my truck.

There a two ways of hooking up the hoses, as have already been mentioned PRIOR to your nice comment.

guess i need to go back to school and read more books. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

X2 on what 4Xcrazy said...:bow:
Knny78... Hint i asked because im not sure not because i work at NASA and now it all!:haha:


I have a manual trans so half of what u said dont matter to me. but... I have seen the heater hose three different way! Year and motor makes a different! another problem is my hoses are the same size not 5/8 and 3/4 and seems the new heater core is also the same size both 5/8 now are u with me?

I do believe im going to change the t-stat im staying down around 190 not above. thinking might be a 180 t-stat when installing my new motor we broke the old heater core so i was not real sure were they went.

when i hooked them up i noticed (with the raditor cap off) it had strong current pouring in to the raditor not use to seeing that dont see it as much now but it is still there. Once agian im questioning my 1 row alum core raditor because i dont know if it is big enough to do the job. It is offered as a replacment in auto stores with a manual trans and no ac so i thinking it might hold up!
 
yeah, that was pretty douche baggish. if you gonna learn me a-somethin, you should try to use some decent sentence construction so it actually makes sense in the process. :rolleyes:
 
My sincerest apologies to every one. Quoting and smilies are a royal pain on an iPhone. I will hold posts until I can properly construct them next time.
 
4xcrazy said:
the hoses are two different sizes, the one coming OFF of the back of the intake, goes TO the heater core, taking heat FROM the motor and giving it to you, then coming out of the heater core to the radiator.

This is the way mine is hooked up from the factory and the heat is overwhelming.


I'm thinkin it's a 5/8 hose from the intake to the heater core, and 3/4 from the heater core to the radiator. Can't remember the sizes right off.

you can run the hose from the heater core to the water pump if you don't have the port on the radiator...

running a 195 t-stat SHOULD give you adequate heat, if not, some have said to put cardboard in front of the radiator, DO NOT put it right up against the radiator, put it in front of the grille, so that the radiator can still get air flow from the fan when it's needed.

guess i should have rephrased this,

edited...
Click to expand...

Correct except the part where you said that the waterpump line is return.

The water pump and or (I say and because you can try t'ing them together for more flow!) intake lines are your IN to the heater core.

The line going into the fill neck, side or whatever part of your radiator is your return.

Your best bet would be to run a line from the water pump to the heater core and T the existing manifold line into it. This will give you the best quickest flow.
 
Stomis said:
Your best bet would be to run a line from the water pump to the heater core and T the existing manifold line into it. This will give you the best quickest flow.
Click to expand...

t the two together wont hurt or should i plug the intake and just use the water pump in let ?
 
Stomis said:
Correct except the part where you said that the waterpump line is return.

The water pump and or (I say and because you can try t'ing them together for more flow!) intake lines are your IN to the heater core.

The line going into the fill neck, side or whatever part of your radiator is your return.

Your best bet would be to run a line from the water pump to the heater core and T the existing manifold line into it. This will give you the best quickest flow.
Click to expand...

i dunno, probably getting confuzzed with all this talk of return lines, feed lines in's and outs, this goes here, that goes there,,,,,whatever :p:

i think the OP got the idea as to what can be done on how to hook up the hoses, all i know is MINE :wink1:,,, are hooked up with a hose at the back of the intake,,,FEEDING water TO the heater core,,,,and THEN a hose coming OFF of the heater core feeding the water (relieved of it's heat) TO the radiator :D.

and as mentioned before, make sure your blen doors are working properly, fully closing/opening and sealing off all outside air that may be able to sneak in.

by now, with a hotter t-stat, running hoses correctly, and if the blend doors are working properly, you SHOULD have heat. (i would think :crazy:)
 
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