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Need pic and ideas

clarkjw24

clarkjw24

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Ok I've been driving my DD K5 for almost a year with two blown dash speakers. I need some tunes. This is what I have to work with.
Speakers:2 10" audiobans
infinity 1" domes w/crossovers
Amps: Alpine V12, 225 Hotsetup, 150 Kenwood, punch 45
Head: Pioneer DEH P7300

Note: I use to have all of this in my ext.cab s10 except for the 10"s (had a 12" punch) Pulled it all except the sony 4x6 plates and another set of tweaters when I sold the truck.

What I'm asking is speaker location, which amp/amps for the 10"s and I need some new mids (the old infinity 4"s are shot). Any suggestions and/or pics of custom installs welcome.
 
Infinity's are great speakers. But I would say 4" are to small for a k5 for mid range alone. Maybe some Q-logic with eather 5.25" or 6.5" and a pair of tweeters. I like Alpine and RF, but I'm an old fart and like the older stuff. I wish I still had some Punch 45's if your talking about the ones from the 80's. Which Alpine V12 do you have? Are you going to run rear fill? What kind of box are you putting the 10's in? I've never owned Kenwood Amp and don't know the Hotsetup.....
 
Agree... We need more details on the amps. Subs are easy; ported box for deeper bass, sealed for better punch. Amp power will determine how small a box you can have. Audiobahn speakers are not very efficient, and will take a bunch of power, especially if you want a small sealed box.
The rear speakers are easy. Mount them on the side. Your front speakers are going to be the hardest part. A 4" will fit in the kick panel area. A 6.5" will fit if you build a plate to bring it out a bit, but you may run into parking brake problems on the drivers side.

Many of your questions depend on how you wheel your truck. You said it is your DD. Does that mean that you don't wheel it at all? My Blazer gets wheeled hard and does duty on the street also. I put in a good head unit and some cheap dash speakers and a box with 2 6.5" speakers from Pep Boys(15.00). When my rear seat is folded forward, it keeps the box from moving by putting pressure on the top.
If I get water in the floor, no big loss. My Burban is getting speakers in all 4 doors and a pair of 8" subs mounted on the sides. Small amps behing the rear trim.
 
P1030231_1136_x_852_.jpg
heres how i mounted mine, my head unit is in a tuffy stereo console. I have MB Quart 5.25 components up front and kicker 6.2 components in the rear. I also have 2 jlaudio 10w3v2 in the back. All of this is being pushed by a kicker kx600.4 amp.
 
All the amps are old school. The hotsetup is made by orion. The alpine is the "newest" bought in 95' 4x40watts. I bridged it to run my one oldschool 12" punch.

Do you get better sound from the kickpanels than the dash? Would a custom enclosure work for the 10s in the panel behind the door in front of the rear seat? Or do you think I wouldn't be able to get enough air. I like hard tight bass because I rock out (not rap out). I can build the boxes but would like to keep my cargo room. All of the amps are too big (W x L) to counter sink into the bedside panels. Just looking for some placement ideas. I think 6.5s would be good mids along with my setup.

I don't wheel this one "yet". I've got a rig on 42s, but I've got the lift, tires, and axles waiting to go under my DD. I usually only drive it on days I can't ride my motorcycle to work.
 
I have my box sitting on the back seat for now , and it sounds great in that location . I do plan on putting them in seperate boxes though . Although mine will be in the rear floor behind each seat . No one really sits in the back of mine .

Mine is running sealed and it works great on all types of music . Sealed is great for sound quality . Ported is great for loud . Some guys will chime in on this , but an internet search of ported vs sealed will show some interesting posts on other forums LOL
 
Several more things... The alpine is a 4/3/2 channel amp. So you bridged two channel to the subwoofer. so what did you do with the other two channel? I would love to find a Couple Punch 45,75, or 150! The Hotsetup must have been after I ran Orion amps, I only know them when they had GX,SX and HCCA amps.... I like sealed boxes for subs, dash speakers work well, but need to add more midrange.
 
clarkjw24 said:
Do you get better sound from the kickpanels than the dash?
Click to expand...
Defently kick panals. Infact, if you're not running through deep water, I'd recomend a set of Q-forms kick panal enclosures.
h044K1006.jpeg
 
Most car stereo shops carry or can build them. Crutchfield carries them, or do a search on google for Q-form kick paal enclosures. Personally, I'd load them with a set of Infinity Kappa Perfect 5.1 components.
 
If you go with the Q-forms, I highly recommend you deaden them as much as possible. They are made of thin McDonalds happy-meal plastic that resonates badly if not deadened.

Yes kick panel mounting generally gives superior sound than does dash or even door mounting methods. If you are curious to find out why, google "speaker path lengths".

For tailoring the sound to your wants/needs (tight bass etc) you should look into the different enclosure 'alignments' and how they affect the sound. Changing box specs can have a much more drastic affect on the sound/performance than does chosing which brand or size speaker to go with.

Lastly, I agree 4" mids would not be nearly big enough, go with 6.5's.
 
I've got a buttload of stereo pics in my gallery, so I won't bother to repost them here....

I've got pics of:

Tweeters mounted in the floor
Mid-Basses in the bottom of each door
1.0cu ft Sub Enclosures that sneak into the bedsides but still allow access to the back seat. (Ported too, BTW)
Amps hidden away under each front seat AND in each side panel (4 amps total)
Power distribution, etc.


Stuff to consider:

Sealed boxes are great for perfect sound, but if you run topless you might be better off trading some SQ for more output. Bass really disappears when the top comes off...

The dash is a lousy place for speakers, especially if you play them up into the glass of the windshield. Down low and angled UP gives the best SQ, but again not everyone is willing to make the sacrifices to put them there (and in a truck that sees WATER CROSSINGS it may not make sense either)

Most people seem to "cheap out" on the mids and end up with a system that has a huge hole in the frequency response between where the mids can play to (on the low end) vs. what the subs should be playing (on their upper end). You can crank up the cutoff frequency on the subs to make it play higher (like 80Hz or 100Hz) but it's going to sound really unnatural, and you will easily be able to localize where the sub is installed (usually behind you) and it will smear your soundfield since 1/2 of the sound will be coming from up front, and 1/2 will be coming from behind you.
 
OK, I've got an idea of what is needed and locations. So here is my current game plan. 1st find some kick panel enclosures. Then buy two sets of 6" range components. One set to go behind the front seats for the rear passangers listening pleasure. Next I think I'll go with some new subs instead of the 10" audiobans. I'm not sure of the size or brand yet but they will be in custom boxes tucked into the bed sides sticking out only around 6" per side. They'll be angled slightly toward the front. The box will gather air space by extending up and over the wheel wells, then capped and the second components box will begin making a the box extend the bed lenght and replacing the bedside panels. I'm thinking a 3" false floor with venting and fans to hide/display the amps. Maybe counter sink some 3/8 plexi and add some lights to show the amps.
 
Excellent point about losing bass when the top comes off Greg72. Building a down-firing enclosure is a good way to combat this with convertibles. Downfiring the sub tends to help contain the bass within the vehicle better (it immediately hits a reflective surface and starts bouncing around, rather than escape straight out the top) and also tends to transfer more of the low-end energy to the chassis which results in more vibrations which reinforces the lowest octaves (a good thing).

There is really no need to build the boxes with the subwoofers 'angled slightly toward the front'. In the octaves a subwoofer plays, the sound is omnidirectional (human ears cannot detect the sound's location) therefore on-axis and off-axis response are irrelevant. That is not to say that facing subs different directions wont affect the sound (it will... due to sound wave interaction)... but that is to say facing them towards you may not be beneficial. Many times people rear-fire subs in an SUV/K5 to get wave reinforcement off the tailgate and increase bass response (although this can also tend to exagerrate the bass). If you are truely concerned with which way to face your sub(s), place it in the truck and move it all around/face different directions until you get the response you want, then permanently mount it using this information. Otherwise, if you aren't an audiofile who needs the perfect bass response and just want some bump, just face em which ever way works out best/easiest for the install. But the bottom line is doing the work to angle them forward isn't worth it most of the time.
 
The angle was more to deal with putting items in the cargo area and the visibility of the subs. Also I doubt I will ever take the top off of this one.
 
These are cheaper than q-forms , and available at 73-87 chevy . Shipping weight is 30.00 so they must be kinda good .

RDkickpanel.jpg
 
pauly383k10 said:
These are cheaper than q-forms , and available at 73-87 chevy . Shipping weight is 30.00 so they must be kinda good .

RDkickpanel.jpg
Click to expand...
Who makes em? That's for the kick panel?
 
pauly383k10 said:
Don't know who makes em , just know that they are 64.99 , and come empty so you mount your own stuff in them .

This is where I saw them Clicky
Click to expand...
Coolies, thanks for the link.
 
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