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Need pictures of electric tailgate cable routing please

KansasTwister

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While getting my rear window working without dropping the tailgate, and diagnosing the motor wasnt responding even though it had power for both up and down. After finally lubing up and loosening both latches and now everything opens and closes alright (the holding pins are a little narrow, may need to bend them out) the power to the motor has stopped working on the raise wire, but yet i still have power to the lowering wire. I ended up using a jumper lead to use the power from the downside of the plug to raise the window, but for whatever reason since i opened the tailgate i have lost power to the upside. Think it would be the switch? or something else?


Secondly, it looks like the window is rubbing on the nos gm cable thats in there. anybuddy have any pictures of how their cable is routed? im not sure if mine is missing a retainer or if something is wrong like its not long enough. Thanks guys.
 
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There is a switch on the drivers side inside the gate that doesn't allow the window to go up when the gate is down (to prevent the window from breaking as there is no support with the gate down). If you just want to verify this just click the driver side latch closed with your finger then you should have power in the up position.
 
Tailgates closed right now and i have work at six. I opened and closed the tailgate to ensure it was closed fully. Is there a connector nearby that i can run a test light to see if power is getting to that switch? seems like the culprit.
 
near the rear bumper there should be the two connectors for the power to the rear window, most common ive seen is the switch thought, id check it first after a light test, even if it isnt the problem a new switch is 15 bucks or so
 
This is a simple fix. There are two wires that come from the drivers side tailgate latch "safety switch". Just get a wire tap (one of those blue plastic things) and jump the two wires. There is no reason to replace your entire tailgate when the "new" one may have the exact same problem, and the fix takes less than a minute!

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TIP: You should pry open the tap and then cut out the "block plate" from one of the wire channels first using some wire cutters. It's made for one end of the wire to rest against it, but in your case you want to pass two entire wires so it will be easier with that cut out.

As far as the cable, mine runs down to the center behind a piece of metal which is attached to the outer sheet metal. I can't remember exactly what it is, but it's just big enough to pass the cable through. Disconnect it from the gear end (not the motor end ... I think!) and pass it through there and your rubbing should be gone.
 
Jessie, im gonna try to get your way to work, but in the mean time anybuddy got any pics handy? just did a ten minute google and forum search and came back empty.
 
It's not really that complex. With the access panel off, just look at the center of the inside of the tailgate. There is a thin piece of metal which is dead center going from the bottom to the top of the tailgate. The cable goes underneath that. It's a tight fit, nearest the bottom of the tailgate, you can just get a finger though the end of the strip of metal where it bends up a little before it ends. Just look and I am sure you will see it.
 
I think I figured it out. And it is the latch switch that's messing up, ill replace that. Ill take a pic of my 86s style for future references.
 
Yes you did but I wasn't able to check it till late this morning/ early afternoon. I simply bypassed the switch.

Lots of people do that when the switch goes bad. Just DON'T try to open the window when the gate is down or you'll end up picking up small pieces of glass.
 
I used a stool and a towel to hold the window when i opened it while it was down making sure not to strain on the glass. Looks like i got the cable mounting right.
 
It's pretty easy to disassemble the switch and clean the contacts.
 

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