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Need plasma tips

doonjumper

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 9, 2001
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Location
Visalia, California
I bought a cutmaster 39 made by thermal dynamics today. I am going to box my frame but have never used a plas cutter b4. Anny and all tips would be appreciated.I also bought a 4x8 sheet of 10 gauge to practice on.
 
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clamp a hunk of angle, etc as a guide wherever your cutting straight stuff.... I just run max settings on all my cutting...
 
I also run mine at max settings.

Make sure you use a good air filter on your air supply. Plasmas don't like water.

You have to slow down your cutting speed on thicker metal. Thinner metal like body panels you should be able to cut almost as fast as you can move.

I always drag my torch during the cut, holding it up ever so slightly off the metal if I can.

You will need to remove any paint where you attach your ground, and where you want to begin your cut. I don't worry about paint in between, the plasma will burn thru it. Sometimes you need to remove any rust in those places also. But not always.

Stick to the recommended air pressure of the machine. It should have a built in regulator.

It won't take many cuts to see when your moving too fast. Sparks shouldn't come back at you, just blow strait thru.

If your moving too slow you will get a build up of dross ( slag) on the underside of your cut.

Have fun, and try not to catch anything on fire.:D

Bruiser
 
Buy a few "stand off" tips... it'll make your life alot easier. They allow you to drag the plasma on the piece your cutting so you don't have to worry about tip distance.
 
Have fun, and try not to catch anything on fire.:D

Bruiser


x100.

1) make sure you know what's behind/ below the metal you're cutting. if you're just cutting metal on a bench, make sure the work piece is past the edge of the bench. if you're working on your truck, know what's behind the area you're cutting.

i had a nice little shop safety reminder/ close call yesterday. i was cutting out some of my rusted floor. i knew where the frame and cab supports were but i forgot about a wiring harness running under the floor. i burned through a bunch of wires and it caught on fire. dry chem. extinguisher couldn't put if out (the powder couldn't get through the thin cut in the metal). luckily the hose was right in front of the truck. i wasn't happy about having to use a hose next to a 50 amp/ 220v extension cord. which brings me to #2.

2) alway have more than one type of extinguisher handy. dry chem and co2. a co2 extinguisher would have been better in this instance and no powder to clean up.
 
Cool thanks for the tips. I cant wait to put them all to practice.
I returned the 39. I paid $1050.00 + tax. I still needed to buy a helmet for like $175.00. After buying mine locally I checked this site http://store.cyberweld.com. They had a special on the 52, buy it and get a free helmet or torch set + free shipping and no tax. So for $145 more I got a bigger unit.
 
in regard to the fire ext. He is right about a standard dry chem not always being the best tool for the job. Search craigslist for a CO2 fx or a halon/halotron/clean guard. They wont leave near the level of mess as a dry chem and are far more effective.

They are a sound investment!
 

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