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need quick help=torqueing 14ff pinion problem

rdn2blazer

rdn2blazer

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I copied the 14 bible and gear install from pirate so I have the info I need. it says to torque to 300 to 350 ft lb. then start checking for the required 20 to 35 IN lb of bearing preload. says it takes upwards of 400 ft lbs to reach the preload.

I borrowed my buds Proto 600 ft lb TQ. wrench and I baught a 0 to 75 IN lb X 1 in. incerment reading AND a 0 to 250 IN lb TQ wrench with 5 in lb incerment.

I worked my way from 300 to 600 ft lb by 20 lb incerments wrench and only have 10 to 12 in lb of preload!!

what gives??? do I just keep going??

thanks for any help given.
 
It's because the crush sleeve on the 14ff is about as big as the damn axle housing........


I never read the amount of torque it takes to set the pre-load. It doesn't even matter what it reads.
I just keep checking it, until it is correct. (In/Lbs)
 
I just threw my 1 1/2 socket on a breaker bar and added a long cheater to it and moved it just a tad at a time and kept checking it, I got it to about 28/30 in lbs so I guess its good. thats nominal recomended. good god damn thats a hell of alot of torque.
 
Its not hard if you have a good impact gun :D

Sounds like you got it though. It doesn't matter how much torque it takes to get there (though it is a lot), it just matters how much pinion bearing preload there is.
 
as far as back lash goes I first got .012 in one location. which it said .003 to .012 was fine with .005 to .008 preferred. so I adjusted it and checked it in 4 places. now I have .007, .008, .009, .010. it said not to have more then .002/.003 variation. I think Im close enough.

ring concintricity runout is .002 which is good. on to the gear pattern check.
 
the article says to have a load of atleast 40 to 50 ft lbs to check the gear pattern properly. says to use the emergency break with just a few clicks on it to attain just the right amount of drag.

my axle is being built on a stand out of the truck. I assume it would be best to hold off on final pattern adjustment till its back under the truck since I have no way of keeping drag on the assemble to set the pattern right. just seems like a pain in the arse that way.

thanks for the replies, and help.
 
To make life easier i put the crush sleeve in my 40 ton press and start pressing just until the sleeve starts to crush. Now i install it and the impact gun will crush it VERY EASILY. :D
 
I have never done it that way, but it sure does seem like the smarter/easier way. Pretty much everyone with differential exp. say to do that.

I need to buy a press anyway, last one was lost during my move from Illinios to SoCal, not a 40T though. I'm thinking 20T, then I will weld on more support if it starts to warp after heavy use.
 
rdn2blazer said:
the article says to have a load of atleast 40 to 50 ft lbs to check the gear pattern properly. says to use the emergency break with just a few clicks on it to attain just the right amount of drag.

my axle is being built on a stand out of the truck. I assume it would be best to hold off on final pattern adjustment till its back under the truck since I have no way of keeping drag on the assemble to set the pattern right. just seems like a pain in the arse that way.

thanks for the replies, and help.
Click to expand...
If you can clamp the axle enough to keep it from rotating on the stand, use a bar like a HiLift jack, and clamp it to the yoke. Figure out the weight over the length to get the 40-50 ft lbs. That would actually be more accurate than the foot brake. All you really need is to close the running clearances in the bearings and squeeze the mustard enough to get an accurate pattern.:D
 
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