Need some Dana 60 and 14 bolt gear install items

[74kay5]

Need some extra shims and possibly some install tools for a Dana 60 14 bolt gear install. Let me know what you have leftover from your install. Also looking for a dial indicator and puller.

 

[4X4HIGH]

What kind of install tools are you needing? Unless you need to remove carrier/pinion bearings there are no "install" tools needed.

You can get a dial indicator at harbor freight CHEAP. Don't let anyone tell you they aren't accurate either. I myself have a 0-1" central tools dial indicator and mag base along with other Central tools indicating equipment.

 

[boz42]

Maybe he wants a case spreader for the Dana.

 

[74kay5]

From what I've read I don't think I'll need one but I do need a puller to transfer the bearings.

 

[4X4HIGH]

No case spreader needed. It can be done with a rubber mallet.

 

[74kay5]

4x4High what would you charge for helping my with my axles? I can do the heavy labor, but justifying all that money in specialty tools is hard to do with my budget.

This is what BillaVista notes in his dana 60 gears article

• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Foot-pound torque wrench - you need one capable of reading at least 250 ft-lbs for torquing the pinion nut, which affects pinion-bearing preload. You can try to do without, and use a “calibrated-by-feel” cheater bar or impact wrench but you will seriously compromise your set-up if you do.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Inch-pound torque wrench – needed for reading pinion-bearing preload. “Experts” sometimes claim to be able to set this by feel. Those with a great deal of experience or a gifted touch probably can - but it's not a recommended approach for most. I certainly can’t and wouldn’t want to make do without this tool – again, it directly impacts one of the four major settings you’re trying to get right. Because you need to use the tool to measure torque while rotating the pinion, a “click-style” torque wrench will not work – you must use a beam-style or better yet a dial indicating torque wrench. Figure 7 shows the Armstrong quarter-inch drive, 0-75 in-lb model I talked myself into, despite its near $300 cost. I understand that beam-style wrenches can be purchased for much less at bicycle shops.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Dial Indicator – needed to measure run-out, backlash, and carrier shim stacks. It might be possible to get backlash close simply by reading the contact pattern, but with specs in the range of four to ten thousandths of an inch, you’re going to get a pretty rough job without a dial indicator.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] 0-1” micrometer callipers – needed for measuring both old and new shims. You simply cannot do the job without this one.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Set-up bearings – needed to avoid damaging real bearings and/or going insane while pulling and pressing the bearings on and off the dozen or more times you’re likely to need to while making adjustments to shim stacks. Take my advice – don’t even think about doing the job without set-up bearings. Besides, you can easily make your own set-up bearings from the old bearings – which also gives you all the reason you need to use new bearings when setting up gears – something I recommend anyway.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Gear marking compound and brush – for reading the gear tooth contact pattern, the most critical part of the entire job – you simply can’t do without it.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Bearing pullers and/or bearing separators with a press. Depending on their size, you will need one or both of these to remove the old bearing cones from the pinion and carrier. I have seen folks attempt the work with hammer and punch (ahem, cough) and the results are predictably disastrous. Don’t ask why I have a large pile of ruined bearings in the corner please![/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Bearing / seal drivers and/or press – appropriate drivers are required to install the carrier-bearing cones on the carrier (a press is much preferred, but it can be done carefully with hammer and driver), the pinion cups in the housing (a driver must be used), and the bearing cones on the pinion (press preferred for inner pinion-bearing cone, driver must be used for outer). You can often fabricate your own drivers, or at least the shafts, from scrap pipe or tube; but the face should be soft (aluminum or brass) to avoid damaging the new bearings.[/FONT]

 

[4X4HIGH]

I sent you a PM.